White Lightning Original Advice
campagsarge
Posts: 434
I have just bought some White Lightning original and followed the instructions exactly what is said on the tin.
Done about 100 miles on the bike so far and the chain looks as though there is a bit of crud on it and also on the rear cassette. My question is how often should you lube and should you degrease before each lube application.
Sure, it says on the blurb that you may never have to degrease your chain again but I just don't believe that.
Done about 100 miles on the bike so far and the chain looks as though there is a bit of crud on it and also on the rear cassette. My question is how often should you lube and should you degrease before each lube application.
Sure, it says on the blurb that you may never have to degrease your chain again but I just don't believe that.
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Comments
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I gave up on WL. As you say, it seems to collect almost as much crud as other lubes. But my main gripe was that I was getting chain squeak after 20 or so miles, even after well lubing the chain two or three times (which had been scrupulously cleaned).
The other problem is we live in the UK. It rains here, sometimes unexpectadly, and fairly frequently. I'll be stuffed if I'm going to clean down the drive-train just to switch lubes depending on the weather.
But, most importantly, as you say it still attracts crud, so there really is no point in using it anyway! Just use proper lube and clean the chain every couple of hundred miles and you will have a silent ride and protect your components.
a serious case of small cogs0 -
Yep, I think I agree to be honest. Will stick to Finish Line.0
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White Lightening !! - I'll stick to Diamond white or Concorde
Am I on the right site :oops:0 -
I suspect that White Lightning the Lube, is tastier than White Lightning or Diamond White the drink!
I stick to Lambrini these days...0 -
I prefer White Lightening Epic Ride Lube to Finish Line Dry Lube. I find that the Finish Line picks up more crap than the Epic. Also chain/cassette stays cleaner for longer. What are the ceramic lubes like? Are they better for staying clean?0
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toontra wrote:I gave up on WL. As you say, it seems to collect almost as much crud as other lubes. But my main gripe was that I was getting chain squeak after 20 or so miles, even after well lubing the chain two or three times (which had been scrupulously cleaned).
The other problem is we live in the UK. It rains here, sometimes unexpectadly, and fairly frequently. I'll be stuffed if I'm going to clean down the drive-train just to switch lubes depending on the weather.
But, most importantly, as you say it still attracts crud, so there really is no point in using it anyway! Just use proper lube and clean the chain every couple of hundred miles and you will have a silent ride and protect your components.
exactly0 -
Not Another Hill wrote:What are the ceramic lubes like? Are they better for staying clean?
I've used Finish Line Pro Road - ceramically reinforced, it no "cleaner" than the WL Epic IMO.
Although I'm using the Finish Line wax lubricant - Krytech again now, still think its "cleaner" than anything else I've tried. It also gets used on my MTB, best recomendation I can give.*Rock Lobster Team Tig SL (22lb 14oz)
*C. Late 1950's Fixed Gear
*1940 Raleigh Dawn Tourist with rod brakes0 -
mine squeaked too, i'd rather degrease once a week, relube and be squeak free than use this stuff. i thought it was over priced rubbish0
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Yep, on closer inspection of my drive train I can see loads of black crud stuck to it. The WL is getting binned and I will stick to FL. £6 - you live and learn.0
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I've just tried the FL Pro Road Ceramic stuff and was not very impressed by how black everything went after one wet ride home. I commute 13 miles each way day in day out so get through a fair few lubes. I've tried WL Epic but found it so thin whilst applying that the bottle ran out quickly. This winter I've used Purple Extreme very happily but note that it took two applications after complete degrease off the bike with ideally an overnight dry before use. This was a weekly routine - sad I know...but the whole transmission did stay clean.
Well the PE is finished and Pedros Ice Wax is going to be the next lube, although I've still got half a bottle of Pro Gold to use but I can't remember what that was like...at least lubes are fairly cheap and ones I don't like end up on the kids bikes!0 -
Aye, I had a bash on the FL pro-gold lube with the result of a black paste after the ride. However, it did stand up well to winter. I am now using FL Dry Teflon Lube in the summer which is spot on. The only reason I changed to WL was that I fancied a change and to see what FL competition was like.
After this little experiment, I will be sticking to FL Dry.0 -
Sailing7 wrote:Well the PE is finished and Pedros Ice Wax is going to be the next lube, although I've still got half a bottle of Pro Gold to use but I can't remember what that was like...at least lubes are fairly cheap and ones I don't like end up on the kids bikes!
I thought the ice wax was garbage, but that was on my MTB.
So far it's Purple Extreme that seems the best to me so far, but as you say a clean chain is a must. Also as you mention, Oil all the links the night before usage to allow it to 'set'. I'd also add wipe off any excess once you've rotated the chain a couple of times before leaving.0 -
Does the PE leave a black film/paste after your ride?0
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Not really although it can do over time, but not as quickly as wet or teflon lubes. I'm a bit of a stickler for keeping things clean anyway.0
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magliaceleste wrote:Sailing7 wrote:Well the PE is finished and Pedros Ice Wax is going to be the next lube, although I've still got half a bottle of Pro Gold to use but I can't remember what that was like...at least lubes are fairly cheap and ones I don't like end up on the kids bikes!
I thought the ice wax was garbage, but that was on my MTB.
So far it's Purple Extreme that seems the best to me so far, but as you say a clean chain is a must. Also as you mention, Oil all the links the night before usage to allow it to 'set'. I'd also add wipe off any excess once you've rotated the chain a couple of times before leaving.
I think you've hit the nail on the head when you talk about wiping off the excess.
Whether you use wax or oil or someting in between doesn't really matter but the main rule
is wipe everything really clean. The oil is already in and on the rollers and pins and any
excess on the outside will just attract dirt and the like, plus look nasty on your clean bike.
I use a wax type called Rock and Roll Lube. Does a fine job of keeping the drivetrain
quiet and somewhat clean. Nothing is perfect.
Dennis Noward0 -
Yep, it is surprising how little lube you need. I certainly go with your 'nothing is perfect' statement Dennis. Rather like life!0
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Well the ice wax did not work very well - it's very thick and seemed reluctant to penetrate into the pins. After one commute - 26 miles, dry, the chain was making squeaking noises, although it hadn't picked up too much dirt. Back to Purple Extreme then. Anyone want some Pedros Ice Wax, it's yours for the postage........0
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Well my two pence worth, I must have every type of chain lube known to mankind. I keep going back to WL but heaven knows why coz I still not 100% happy with it. As has already been mentioned it does still attract dirt and crap, but the worst is if you are caught out in a down pour. Several times this has happened on my ride into work, by the time I have gone to ride home the chain has rust spots on it.
Tried the Wet Ride WL, and that just seems like mush and no better than FL Wet Lube
Now trying the new FL Pro and would agree with what has already been said, after a few rides the chain has gone black. Cannot quite undertand why all the hype about it to be honest?
PE is quite good, but does require a lot of preparation to the chain before it is applied. Failure to do so will result in very poor results.
I dont want to change the lube depending on the weather or the type of riding that I intend to do, I need a good all round lubricant.
The key to the success of any of the lubes mentioned is to get the chain 100% spotless of any grease or old lubricant. The only way to do this is with degreaser and copious amounts of the stuff. A large can of Halfrauds degreaser will last me for two chain cleans, when I am switching from one type to another. :oops: Then leave the chain for a couple of hours to dry before applying the new chain lube, then leave overnight for the lube to "set" prior to riding.
IMHO, the best overall lube is FL Dry Lube. Keeps the chain looking clean, does not attract to much crap and will withstand a downpour with no adverse affects."You only need two tools: WD40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't, use duct tape"0 -
Personally, I have my own secret mixture of wax and old fashioned lubricant oil that seems to do the job. Chain never squeaks, runs smoothly like a dream and only have to clean it once every month. Gets a bit black, but hardly noticible. Best to apply it with a paint brush while moving the chain around and then leave to dry. Even in the wet, it stays clean and doesnt make any noises.
Bombdogs0 -
I'm glad I read this post as I was thinking of buying some White Lightning for my racing bike (which I am about to rebuild around a new frame.) I won't bother now, it doesn't sound like it's any better than the Krytech wax lube I once tried (it made my chain squeal no matter how frequently I applied it).
I've been using 3-in-1 (from Halfords) on both my bikes (commuting steed and racing bike) for the last few years and found it works well enough. It's certainly cheap.
Anybody got an opinion on the various dry teflon lubes you can get...?0 -
Oh dear, I thought this was about cheap cider.0