Speedplay Zero's

Compton77
Compton77 Posts: 139
edited April 2008 in Workshop
A few months back i bought a set of Speedplay Zero's from Wiggle (originally destined for my old steed) but they have been sat in a draw since! I'm soon to take delivery of a shiny new build and when I sold my last bike I left my Keo Sprints on it. Now, i've never had any issues with Keo's and was going to buy another set but it seems a waste when I have the Speedplay's already. My question is, how are Speedplay Zero's to use? I found the Keo's easy to clip in/out of, are Speedplay's the same? I don't fancy falling over like Delboy at the bar at the first set of lights I approach!
Cervelo RS

Comments

  • richardjallen
    richardjallen Posts: 691
    They start off a bit stiff but loosen up after a few clip/unclips. Unclipping then becomes easy, no problems there. But I find clipping in is harder.
  • thenumber8
    thenumber8 Posts: 68
    "But I find clipping in is harder."

    I'd agree and think this is due to it being a smaller pedal than a keo. I'm just getting used to them though. Clipping out is easy, as per keo's, so you shouldn't have any del boy moments.
  • vanleapo
    vanleapo Posts: 150
    I've been using Speedplay zeros for the past few years.
    I think they are one of the easiest systems to use. The great advantage they have is that they are double sided.
    I even manage to get clipped back in, after stopping on Hardknott Pass, which certainly wouldn't be possible with some other systems.
    It's best to give the cleats and pedals a quick spray of dry lubricant every few weeks, to stop any squeaks.
    Tearfund Tour of Scotland 26th May to 1st June 2013
    http://www.justgiving.com/phil-godley
  • portuguese mike
    portuguese mike Posts: 695
    richardjallen wrote:
    But I find clipping in is harder.

    i have to say i find the complete opposite. i specifically put them on my commuter cos having double sided entry means i just put my foot on it and click away i go. i had quite a few incidents at junctions with both look and time pedals before that where i hadn't quite engaged and my foot slipped of the pedal almost causing an off in the middle of loads of traffic. So far (in just over a year) no such problems with speedplays. in fact i like them so much i've got them on my best bike too now.
    pm
  • richardjallen
    richardjallen Posts: 691
    Being double sided is one of the reasons why I got mine. They are great but I mean clipping in is harder than clipping out. For me the difficulty is locating the pedal in the cleat.
  • don_don
    don_don Posts: 1,007
    Being double sided is one of the reasons why I got mine. They are great but I mean clipping in is harder than clipping out. For me the difficulty is locating the pedal in the cleat.

    I completely agree that they take a bit of getting used to, but the security and fantastically adjustable float are worth it. I find I need to put a bit of teflon lube on the spring (like Speedplay recommend) every couple of rides, to help the cleats slip onto the pedal easily.

    A guy in my LBS is another fan but he is quite light and finds the spring tension too high. He was going to buy some of the 'ladies' models (XE or XS, or something similar IIRC) which have a lower tension. Might be worth considering if you are a racing whippet, unlike me :wink:
  • Compton77
    Compton77 Posts: 139
    thanks for all your help, i'm definitely going to stick with the Speedplay's now. One thing, would you advise that i put the cleats on my shoes myself or is it something that I should leave to my LBS (they'll be fitting the pedals)? I have spoken to the mechanic there who hasn't any experience of Speedplays, so am I just as well fitting them myself?

    If so, do you have any tips so that I don't cock it up?!
    Cervelo RS
  • neeb
    neeb Posts: 4,473
    The main thing when putting the cleats on is not to do the screws up too tight, otherwise you make the springs very stiff... You can use threadlock on the screws to make sure they don't budge. You want to set the cleat on the shoe so that when the pedal is engaged the spindle is right under the ball of your foot (there is a particular bone you can find that gives you the exact spot, maybe you can read up on this).

    I had real problems clipping in at first but they are lovely and smooth now. It's a combination of technique and waiting for things to wear in a little. It's unfortunate that when you first get them, you have to learn the technique at the same time as the pedals are new and quite stiff...

    The trick is to get a feel for when the pedal is in the right position before pushing down. It can feel as if it is just right at first when it is slightly misaligned, and then you can push down as hard as you like and it doesn't go in... Eventually you learn what it feels like when it's in the right position (difficult to describe, and different from other pedals) and then it's easy.

    Think hard about how much float you need. I'm just recovering from a knee problem which I think was partially caused by too much float. I first had the problem when I was using Crank Bros Quattro, which have lots of (unajustable) float. When I switched to zeros I set them up with the maximum float, and had the same problem. Then when I got my foot in just the right position and dialed nearly all of the float out of them, the problem went away. The great thing about the zeros is that you can decide exactly how much float you want.

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