Struggle to fit wheels in dropouts…
Hello all,
I bought a new set of planet x wheels (model C’s) to replace the stock rigidia wheels that came with my Giant OCR. Now, they are great wheels but the problem with them is that there really difficult to remove and reinstall in the frame.
The front wheel is fine, but I really need to force the back wheel in/out. I noticed after finally getting the back wheel out again that the hub has scratched away some of the paint from the dropouts.
Has anyone else had this problem with wheels? Or could it be that my frame is needing re-aligned? (I’ve read that this could be a possible reason for wheels being difficult to fit)
I bought a new set of planet x wheels (model C’s) to replace the stock rigidia wheels that came with my Giant OCR. Now, they are great wheels but the problem with them is that there really difficult to remove and reinstall in the frame.
The front wheel is fine, but I really need to force the back wheel in/out. I noticed after finally getting the back wheel out again that the hub has scratched away some of the paint from the dropouts.
Has anyone else had this problem with wheels? Or could it be that my frame is needing re-aligned? (I’ve read that this could be a possible reason for wheels being difficult to fit)
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Comments
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There are more than a few reasons for a rear wheel not going in smoothly. The tire could be hitting the brakes. Open the brake release. Make sure the rear mech is "opened up"
or 'held open" so that it doesn't hit the cassette or vice versa. Wheel quick releases
need to be open far enough. I remember once that I had installed those little springs
backwards and that didn't help at all. The wheel went on but it was a struggle.
Sometimes the chain gets in the way. Don't know if you're a newbie or not but if you are
it does take a bit of practice to become really good with a rear wheel. Sounds like yuo've got something "hanging up". I know that's an understatement but without seeing what you are doing it's hard to tell. I doubt it's your frame if the other wheels work.
Dennis Noward0 -
its not due to the qr's on the brakes being closed or the wheel skewer being closed. i've replaced my wheels plenty of times before, but it just seems to be a problem witht his new set of wheels... i'm guessing it's to do with the hubs on the planet x's.
i'm wondering whether this can be a problem with some wheels in general?0 -
mrjim wrote:its not due to the qr's on the brakes being closed or the wheel skewer being closed. i've replaced my wheels plenty of times before, but it just seems to be a problem witht his new set of wheels... i'm guessing it's to do with the hubs on the planet x's.
i'm wondering whether this can be a problem with some wheels in general?
No, not generally a problem. Most wheels fit most bikes. Don't know what else to tell you except have a friend try it and see how it goes. And are those little hub springs pointing in the right direction???
Dennis Noward0 -
Hi there.
Apologies if this is obvious, but what gear are you in when you change wheels?
It's much, much easier if you change to the smallest sprocket on the back before changing the back wheel.
Cheers, Andy0 -
dennisn - i've even tried removing the skewers and fitting the wheels on their own but this dosent make any difference.
andy - i'm in the smallest sproket anyway cos i find it easier to re-hook the chain onto the casette this way.
i've removed and refitted the wheels a few times today in an attempt to slacken them off and there is a slight improvement... but i've noticed the paint on the dropouts appears to be being eroded away so its maybe the case that the hubs are machined to a relativly poor tolerence where the hubs are too big for the dropouts (about a paint flake's width!). The wheels do spin freely when fully in the dropouts though... i'm guessing that dropouts are shaped like pincers.0 -
mrjim wrote:dennisn - i've even tried removing the skewers and fitting the wheels on their own but this dosent make any difference.
andy - i'm in the smallest sproket anyway cos i find it easier to re-hook the chain onto the casette this way.
i've removed and refitted the wheels a few times today in an attempt to slacken them off and there is a slight improvement... but i've noticed the paint on the dropouts appears to be being eroded away so its maybe the case that the hubs are machined to a relativly poor tolerence where the hubs are too big for the dropouts (about a paint flake's width!). The wheels do spin freely when fully in the dropouts though... i'm guessing that dropouts are shaped like pincers.
Usually there is no paint on the dropout faces, just around them. Is this what you're saying??
Dennis Noward0 -
Are you saying the wheels are a tight fit in the dropouts? If that's the case then go to your local DIY shop and get a file and lightly file the inside of the dropouts until there's room. I had that same problem with my bike until I filed the dropouts, now I don't have that problem anymore.0
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Sounds like youve got a layer of paint on the inside of the dropouts . Dropouts shouldnt really have any paint on the insides - youd be surprised how thick a layer of paint can be .
It looks like a frame issue not a wheel issue .0 -
thanks for the replies everybody...
my rear dropout did have a layer of paint on the inside rather than around the dropout. This seems to be what has been causing the problem. i've manager to take some of the paint off and the wheels do go in a lot easier now. i never though about the paint being inside the droputs, i assumed all frames were sprayed the same way.
Kudos to Planet X though... the wheels are a great ride and actually weight their claimed weight. for the money, they have to be up there with the open pro/ultegra option.0
