Looking for a bike & Not got a clue!
jimjon
Posts: 42
Hello
recentely i've decided i should buy a bike, mainly for getting around locally, and prehaps the odd ride for some exercise after work.
i really don't know anything about bikes, i'm a car man.
when i was 16yrs old i had a raleigh ascender and thought that was decent, but trying to find a basic bike these days i've got all confused and getting fussy.
i'll mainly be riding a mix of b-roads and off road, but mainly off road, bridleway type tracks, no jumps or anything extreme.
do i need full suspension? will the quality of bike make much difference......have looked at your buyers guides, but still not clued up enough. Is a bike shop near me, cycle king in sawbridgeworth. But everyone says the bikes will be no good.
i don't want a super amazing bike, i was first looking at 2nd hand bikes really cheap on ebay like under £100. but now the budget is creeping up & up to nearer £250
has any any advice or am i getting too involved, surely a bike is a bike at the end of the day
recentely i've decided i should buy a bike, mainly for getting around locally, and prehaps the odd ride for some exercise after work.
i really don't know anything about bikes, i'm a car man.
when i was 16yrs old i had a raleigh ascender and thought that was decent, but trying to find a basic bike these days i've got all confused and getting fussy.
i'll mainly be riding a mix of b-roads and off road, but mainly off road, bridleway type tracks, no jumps or anything extreme.
do i need full suspension? will the quality of bike make much difference......have looked at your buyers guides, but still not clued up enough. Is a bike shop near me, cycle king in sawbridgeworth. But everyone says the bikes will be no good.
i don't want a super amazing bike, i was first looking at 2nd hand bikes really cheap on ebay like under £100. but now the budget is creeping up & up to nearer £250
has any any advice or am i getting too involved, surely a bike is a bike at the end of the day
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Comments
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Avoid full suspension bikes at that price, they'll be heavy and poorly specced compared with a hardtail. You can find some decent MTBs at the £250 mark, especially if you find somewhere selling off last years model.
Probably best going to a couple of local bike shops and see what they recommend for your budget (don't forget to keep some back for a helmet). Also check out the Carerra range in your local Halfords, most of the magazines rate their budget bikes pretty highly.0 -
jimjon wrote:Hello
recentely i've decided i should buy a bike, mainly for getting around locally, and prehaps the odd ride for some exercise after work.
i really don't know anything about bikes, i'm a car man.
when i was 16yrs old i had a raleigh ascender and thought that was decent, but trying to find a basic bike these days i've got all confused and getting fussy.
i'll mainly be riding a mix of b-roads and off road, but mainly off road, bridleway type tracks, no jumps or anything extreme.
do i need full suspension? will the quality of bike make much difference......have looked at your buyers guides, but still not clued up enough. Is a bike shop near me, cycle king in sawbridgeworth. But everyone says the bikes will be no good.
i don't want a super amazing bike, i was first looking at 2nd hand bikes really cheap on ebay like under £100. but now the budget is creeping up & up to nearer £250
has any any advice or am i getting too involved, surely a bike is a bike at the end of the day
I would suggest looking at a hybrid bike if your only going to be riding b roads and bridleways.
I would stay away from full suspension unless you're willing to massively up your budget. A rigid or front suspension fork is all you'll need, if you can get a front suspension fork with a lockout facility all the the better.0 -
"Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
i did have a read of your guide thanks, it is great for what you get for your money, but i'm not sure what i need to look for.
is a hardtail a bike with front suspension but no rear?
this is the shop near me
http://www.cycleking.co.uk/product.php? ... d=122&k=17
any comments on those bikes? is 2 pages of them0 -
here's some i found on ebay that seem ok to me
Claud Butler Stone River
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Claud-Butler-Ston ... dZViewItem
Schwinn Mesa GSX hardtail mountain bike 21" MTB ATB
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Schwinn-Mesa-GSX- ... dZViewItem
falcon bike (is this crap?)
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/falcon-bike_W0QQi ... dZViewItem
Boss stealth
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Boss-stealth-twin ... m153.l12620 -
jimjon wrote:is a hardtail a bike with front suspension but no rear?
Sure is.this is the shop near me
http://www.cycleking.co.uk/product.php? ... d=122&k=17
any comments on those bikes? is 2 pages of them
You'd might be better off going to Halfords.0 -
There is (was?) a cycle king near where i live and i never used it as no-one seemed to have anything good to say about their customer service / mechanics.
Then again all stores differ (like Halfords)
Have you tried Evans Sales section
http://www.evanscycles.com/dept.jsp?dept_id=1204My Website - Trail Centre info for the UK: MTB Trail Time0 -
Some info here for you:
One of the most common questions from beginners on a budget is 'how much shall I spend' or 'what is the minimum I should be looking at'? The componentry levels on bikes are often confusing to many, where certain parts can look very similar from one to another but yet can have a big impact on performance and longevity. The most important factor is fit and comfort which is where testing comes in, but this does not always give a full picture of the bike and how it may last.
I think for general mountain biking, the following features should be considered: (aimed at buyers spending less than 250 quid)
- Alloy hardtail frame. Full suspension at the lower end of the market (sub 300 and even upto 500 quid) is heavily compromised. Its very heavy, undamped, poor bearings and pulls down the spec elsewhere. Steel frames at this level are often mild steel and are 2 or 3 pounds heavier than an alloy frame.
- Suspension fork with alloy crown and one piece lowers. Cheap pressed steel lowers and crowns flex badly. Preload adjusters are a good feature to help set sag and ride height for differing weights.
- Compact crankset (42/32/22). Many entry level bikes have larger chainrings (48/38/28 from cheaper groupsets. This doesn't allow a very low gear and is often over geared for the terrain a MTB will be used on. Replacable chainrings are a bonus.
- 8 speed freehub. 8 gears from a cassette and freehub gives a better spread than some 7spd screw on freewheels, often 11-32 teeth rather than 14-28. Also this allows the bearings to be spaced further in the hub, allowing a stronger rear wheel/axle. Shimano make the best budget 8 speed set ups.
- Cartridge bottom bracket. Old adjustable cup and cone bottom brackets are poorly sealed and are prone to coming loose.
- 32 or 36 spoked wheels. Lots of beginners MTBs are coming with fancy 'paired' spokes, or 24 bladed ones, purely for looks. They use heavy rims, are poorly constructed and are not worth it compared to standard wheels. Look for stainless spokes if possible, and sealed alloy hubs with quick release axles.
- Alloy components. If possible, ask about the seatpost and bars. Alloy units save some weight, and are more comfortable.
- Brakes and levers. Make sure the levers aren't plastic as they flex badly. Cable disc brakes stop better in the wet but usually add cost. Don't go for discs over other essential features.
- Aheadset or threadless headset. Much better bearings and more reliable than the older quill stem and threaded headset.
Many bikes for 200 pounds now have all these features! Don't be afraid to ask for a saddle swap if they are uncomfortable, and enquire about the quality of the tyres..0
