Chris King Headset Advice Required
seph_16
Posts: 38
Hi,
I'm currently fitting my 2007 Rock Shox Tora 318 with pop-lock onto a new frame I've bought which came with a Chris King headset. I removed the forks from my old frame, no problems at all, but now having difficulties in getting the rings on the steerer tube.
The bottom ring (stop laughing) seems to snag on the steerer tube as it's slid on, leaving about a 5mm gap between the ring and the crown (is that the right name?). I can best describe it as that the steerer tube seems to bulge out at the base. All the rings appear to be the same diameter as my previous headset. The only difference I can see is that the previous base ring has a bevelled edge to accomodate this bulge.
Can anyone offer any advice at all?
I don't want to force it on as I don't think it'll come off again!
I hope I have included enough information, however, please feel free to ask for more details!
Thanks in advance
I'm currently fitting my 2007 Rock Shox Tora 318 with pop-lock onto a new frame I've bought which came with a Chris King headset. I removed the forks from my old frame, no problems at all, but now having difficulties in getting the rings on the steerer tube.
The bottom ring (stop laughing) seems to snag on the steerer tube as it's slid on, leaving about a 5mm gap between the ring and the crown (is that the right name?). I can best describe it as that the steerer tube seems to bulge out at the base. All the rings appear to be the same diameter as my previous headset. The only difference I can see is that the previous base ring has a bevelled edge to accomodate this bulge.
Can anyone offer any advice at all?
I don't want to force it on as I don't think it'll come off again!
I hope I have included enough information, however, please feel free to ask for more details!
Thanks in advance
0
Comments
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it needs hammering on.(there is a tool for it).
have a read of park tools."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
Nice one thanks0
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take care not to damage it."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
I'll do my best not to. I've run into a second snag with my front derailleur, can I ask here or shall I start a new post?0
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may as well continue here. I am in a god mood."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
God mood? Crikey, your advice must be good then. I have a SRAM X7 front derailleur and currently fitting it to my 2003 (I think) GT i-drive 1.0 frame. Unfortunately due to it's thickness, the clamp snags on the frame so it cannot shut inline where it should be. Is the only option to replace the derailleur with one with a thinner clamp?
Current Derailleur:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=13262
Possible replacement:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=20684
The first link doesn't show the clamp at all, however, the XT one does seem to be thinner.
Thanks0 -
Now as the bike is a GT we need the Sonic.. but to help do you have a picture of the problem?"Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
I don't right now unfortunately, but I can post a couple tomorrow when I'm back from work. If it helps, the frame is the older eccentric bearing style with the braced cnc'd area at the point where the rear traingle attaches.0
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i have to ask would a mech with a higher clamp help?
what year frame?"Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
Hmm... I am incredibky pis$ed, and am probably going going to be no use what so bloody ever here, but me old mucker nick is on the proverbial ball.
Anyway, need to know the exact year Idrive. Ive ridden a few: hope I can help0 -
Thanks for the replies so far. I'm not sure a mech with a higher clamp would help due to the very short stump of a post it has to clamp on to! Here are a few photos of the problem:
http://seph16.pinkbike.com/album/GT-I-drive/
Thanks,0 -
ok so it is the bands split that is touching the frame?"Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
Yeah, roughly there abouts. It's right at the hinge, i'm guessing they thickened it up at that point for strength? It rubs on the crossed area causing it to be roughly 20 degrees off centre. From the plastic insert in the mech to the widest point is roughly 9mm if that helps?0
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Mm you need one that is the correct size and not one of the Oversize ones that use shims to fit the smaller tubes."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
I believe it's the correct size as the shim inside is only about 1mm thick (2mm total from either size of the circumference), which I assume is only to protect the frame?
http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/media/techd ... 625631.pdf
It doesn't give dimensions, but would the mech on the left of the above link be more suitable due to the thickness of the band?0 -
nope if it is the correct size there should be NO shim.
find out what the tube size is get get a mech that fits only that size. the ones you have linked to are all max sized and use shims. Your frame i believe was made before the use of shims was common."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
It's 31mm, the best match with top swing, bottom pull at 31.8mm is the following:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=22774
Although it's again a SRAM, I just want to make completely sure it's going to be right.
Thanks for all your advice so far.0 -
you can use shimano shimmed ones, provided its top swing as shown in the link 31.9-34.9 is the one you want0
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Ok thanks, I'll probably buy both and see which one fits better.
Thanks for the advice.0