Square taper crank removal - stripped threads

carlstone
carlstone Posts: 602
edited April 2008 in Workshop
Help

In a rush this morning I started removing my cranks (never a good idea to rush any bike job) as my bottom braket is goosed. They are oldish Shimano XT square taper jobbies. So I screwed in the tool and took off the drive side crank no problem. Screwed the tool into the left hand crank and started screwing in the splitter inner when I realised the splitter was coming out of the crank taking all the crank threads with it. After a bit of a 'thrutch' I managed to get the splitter tool out of my crank and then realised that the splitter tool was locked solid. This had meant that all the force was going into stripping the threads.

So now I have a crank that needs removing but it has no threads left to attach a crank removal tool. How do I get it out without ruining my frame etc. I'm not bothered about the bottom bracket so have thought about taking an angle grinder to it but that will still leave me with a crank with a bit of axle stuck in it.

Moral of the story, don't rush a job and buy good quality tools ( the splitter tool obviously isn't ).

:(

Comments

  • Pirahna
    Pirahna Posts: 1,315
    With a square taper arm you should be able to get a 2 legged flywheel puller of some sort behind the crank arm. Put the bolt part way into the bottom bracket so the puller has something to work against. Get the puller from a hire shop.

    They look like this:

    http://lazair.com/forum/uploads/post-7-1137868316.jpg

    Or carefully cut the crank arm off then take the bracket out.
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    You might be able to use a 2-pronged ball-joint splitter like this:
    http://www2.toolspot.co.uk/product/5pc- ... m-tool-kit
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • carlstone
    carlstone Posts: 602
    Cheers, I think I may have one of the two pronged thingies knocking around the garage somewhere.
  • Gussio
    Gussio Posts: 2,452
    Same thing happened to me when working on the missus' bike. I'd bought the replacement BB from the LBS and the mechanic there kindly rectified my mess free of charge. I was most grateful.
  • Tom Butcher
    Tom Butcher Posts: 3,830
    You could always smack the crank with a hammer til it falls off - probably risks damaging your frame from the shock but it worked for me - alternatively spray some penetrating oil on it and go for a ride - chances are it'll come loose.

    it's a hard life if you don't weaken.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    so you are going to refit the stripped cranks?
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • El Gordo
    El Gordo Posts: 394
    alternatively spray some penetrating oil on it and go for a ride - chances are it'll come loose.

    ....but leave the crank bolt in, undone a couple of turns, unless you want a nasty accident.
  • carlstone
    carlstone Posts: 602
    so you are going to refit the stripped cranks?

    not sure really. Haven't really thought that far ahead. Can you buy a single 175mm square taper crank that will be a match for the 15year+ old drive side crank. I really don't want to throw another hundred notes at the old bus for a new crank and bottom bracket set up!
  • Tom Butcher
    Tom Butcher Posts: 3,830
    On a hack I would probably just refit them and get the hammer out again next time the bottom bracket gives up :wink:

    Are you sure the threads are completely shot - when I did this initially it was because I hadn't screwed the crank puller in far enough - I found I still had enough thread to just about get the cranks off once or twice more. It's a mistake you only make once anyway.

    it's a hard life if you don't weaken.
  • carlstone
    carlstone Posts: 602
    Hi Tom

    No the puller was screwed right in, unfortunately physics is physics and when you have 16 stone+ riveing on one end of a 12" adjustable something had to give and unfortunately it wasn't the axle/crank join.