Beginner: got the bike - now what do I need?

francisg1

Hi everyone, I've been reading the forum for the last couple of months to get up to speed on road cycling and found all the advice on here incredibly helpful. Finally took the plunge and bought a bike yesterday (second hand Specialized Allez)!

Now I obviously want to get out and enjoy the bike, but I don't have any of the other gear. Going to head to a good LBS from work today so I want to get a good list of what a beginner needs to get going... I'd be grateful for all the suggestions I can get!

At the moment I'm thinking: helmet, shoes, pedals, pump, multi-tool/allen keys, spare inner tubes. Might wait a bit for clothing to see how I go. Is there anything obvious I've missed?

Couple of specific questions: the bike came with Look Keo Classic pedals, but I'd ideally been looking at SPD so that I can also walk a bit if required. Is this stupid seeing as I already have road pedals?

Pump - is it worth going for a track and a mini-pump or could I get away with one for a bit?

Multi-tool - I assume there are tools on the market that do everything a beginner needs?

Sorry for the monster post, I'd be very grateful for any advice people can give me. Cheers.

graham_g

No need for clipless pedals straight away, ask for asome cheap flats so that you don't have to think about that whilst you get used to the bike. Clothing could wait as long as you get some padded shorts just to wear underneath trackie bottoms or whatever else you have in the wardrobe. So my bare minimum is just padded shorts but like you say, multi-tool and spare tube/puncture repair kit is also a good idea (as is a dry run taking tyre on and off at home!)

Lagavulin

francisg1 wrote:

Pump - is it worth going for a track and a mini-pump or could I get away with one for a bit?

I'd say both. I find a gauge-equipped track pump an invaluable piece of kit but you need something for when you're out and about, be it a frame pump, mini-pump or CO2.

Stewie Griffin

Firstly well done on the choice of bike 8) proper shorts are a must buy, gloves are also a good idea. The Allez is all Allen Keys so a Multi Tool is also an essential. As are, a helmet, lights, spare inner tube, a pu***ure repair kit, tyre levers and spare tyre. A frame pump will get you home in emergencies but will not go up to 120lbs so you will need to get a track/floor pump fairly quickly. I guess it already has a bottle and cage? Pedals and shoes, I have SPD-SL as I dont plan to do any walking and will be going to Keo's soonish. The amount of walking you plan to do answers the question really, road shoes arent designed to do anything other than attach your feet to your pedals. Until you are confident on a bike again however Graham G's advice of normal flat pedals is probably the way to go.

Welcome aboard, soon you will only want to spend money on your bike Which is a good thing really as we havent even scratched the surface of things that you "need". :shock:

ma123

I have specialized MTB SPD shoes (£45) which are not that heavy, very comfy, and good grip when walking. Its always funny watching friends ice skating on wet surfaces when off the bike with road shoes.

Always make sure you have a Puncture repair kit and a pump ALWAYS.

I found MTB padded shorts are good especially when you first start lycra might not be appealing to you YET.

francisg1

Thanks for all the replies and the good advice.

I think I'll get some cycling shorts too then - not sure I'm totally sold on lycra (yet) to be honest so maybe MTB ones...

Agreed Stewie Griffin - I've already noticed the possiblities for spending large amounts of money on all the kit! One benefit of a secondhand bike at least is that I've got a fair bit of savings left to fund all the extras.

RE puncture repair kit - do I need a particular type to ensure that they'll stand up to 120psi?

Keep the advice coming!

feel

These PEDALS are SPD and you can delay buying the shoe as they are double sided which will also help when you are getting used to them. I am pretty certain you can get them cheaper than this if you hunt around.

Agree with earlier post that both mini pump and track pump are needed.

Also i would say lights - especially a strong front flashing LED. I used to use my lights at dusk and night only but now i use my front flashing light whenever i am in a built up area and it has made the world of difference to the number of times that people either pull out in front of me or cut across me. Previously this used to happen on a fairly regular basis, but now drivers seem to notice and hang back to let me past.

£10 can also buy a mini saddle bag to keep tyre levers and spare tyres in.

Campy King

In order of importance, I would say:

1) Pocket Pump or CO2 pump
1) Pucture repair kit or self adhesive patches
1) Spare tubes
1) Tyre Levers
1) Multi tool (or failing that a set of alle keys)
1) Money to make phone call or mobile phone.
1) Cycling Shorts (pro fit are the comfiest)
1) Bottles and Bottle Cages
1) Helmet (as much ventilation and strength as poss)
1) Gloves (gel ones are pretty universal)
The above are all essential and you should not leave the house without them.

2) Cycle shoes (as someone has already said, just start with flat pedals and trainers, do not go for SPD if you are serious about road cycling).
2) Jersey
2) Reflective Jacket or outer layer
2) Socks
2) Track Pump

3) Cycle Computer
3) Spare Tyre
3) Oil/Lubricant
3) Sunglasses
3) Skull Cap for under helmet
3) Savlon!
3) Lights (only if you plan on cycling at night or dusk)


This list is not exhaustive! It may seem an extensive list at the moment but it is all required. Buy the best stuff that you can afford as you will only end up buying duplicate items further down the line..

azzerb

I'd go with more than one tube.

I carry two tubes on the bike (have you put down a saddle bag to carry your bits and bobs under the saddle)

And i have spare tubes at home so i don't have to mess around getting to the LBS for more tubes if i use them up.

I'm not keen on puncture repair kits, call it wasteful but i rarely puncture (touch wood), so I'd rather just replace the tube and not worry about the patch.

feel

Campy King wrote:

do not go for SPD if you are serious about road cycling).

:roll:



3) Lights (only if you plan on cycling at night or dusk)

I wonder why it's the law that all new motorbikes run with their headlight on. :roll:
plus for when you get caught out in heavy rain good front and rear lights will increase your visibility and might save your life.

antonylp

Cycle shoes (as someone has already said, just start with flat pedals and trainers, do not go for SPD if you are serious about road cycling).

What is wrong with using spd's on a road bike?

geoff_ss

feel wrote:

Campy King wrote:

do not go for SPD if you are serious about road cycling).

:roll:



3) Lights (only if you plan on cycling at night or dusk)

I wonder why it's the law that all new motorbikes run with their headlight on. :roll:
plus for when you get caught out in heavy rain good front and rear lights will increase your visibility and might save your life.

It may be something to do with the fact that motor cycles travel at speeds up to 100+ mph (at least they do round here!) Moreover they can have very high powered lamps which would require huge batteries on a pedal cycle or a dynamo that used most of the rider's leg power.

I don't believe that normal cycle rear lights have much effect in daylight - certainly not as much as bright clothing. I used to use a home-made 6v halogen lead/acid battery powered front light which, whilst good in the dark, wouldn't be very attention attracting daylight. Perhaps the very expensive high powered battery lights costing £100 or more may be better but not worth carrying at all times.

Campy King - there is absolutely nothing wrong with SPDs on the road. I've been using them since they were first introduced and, for touring/day rides, are far superior to systems that make walking a misery.

Geoff

feel

Geoff (apologies for a bit of a diversion to the thread) but the car / motorbike accidents that caused the legislation were mostly of the type "sorry i didn't see you mate " as the car driver pulled out of a side turn in a built up area. I have done 80,000+ miles on motorbikes and learned long before the legislation that keeping your headlight on was well worthwhile.(research showed that a high frequency flashing light was even more noticeable) My own personal experience is exactly the same on a bicycle. At junctions car drivers (and pedestrians) are just looking out for cars and often don't think about bicycles. Since taking to using my flashing front LED in towns the incidence of cars and people coming out in front of me has really reduced. On flashing mode battery life is not an issue either. If you don't believe me give it a go - glad we agree on the SPD's though

Campy King

Geoff_SS wrote:

Campy King - there is absolutely nothing wrong with SPDs on the road. I've been using them since they were first introduced and, for touring/day rides, are far superior to systems that make walking a misery.

Geoff

A good point well made.

Campy King

feel wrote:

Campy King wrote:

do not go for SPD if you are serious about road cycling).

:roll:



3) Lights (only if you plan on cycling at night or dusk)

I wonder why it's the law that all new motorbikes run with their headlight on. :roll:
plus for when you get caught out in heavy rain good front and rear lights will increase your visibility and might save your life.

What the....??

francisg1

Thanks again for all the tips and advice. Managed to get a good stock of things yesterday so hopefully I'm good now (for a couple of weeks at least!)

One other real newbie question: got one of the Lidl track pumps and pumped the tyres last night. The bike & comments I've read suggest 100 - 120psi but I stopped pumping when the gauge read around 60psi as the already felt rock-hard & I didn't want to over-inflate.

Is this a normal reaction when coming to a road bike for the first time? Should I push on and aim for 100 - 120?

Thanks

redddraggon

francisg1 wrote:

Thanks again for all the tips and advice. Managed to get a good stock of things yesterday so hopefully I'm good now (for a couple of weeks at least!)

One other real newbie question: got one of the Lidl track pumps and pumped the tyres last night. The bike & comments I've read suggest 100 - 120psi but I stopped pumping when the gauge read around 60psi as the already felt rock-hard & I didn't want to over-inflate.

Is this a normal reaction when coming to a road bike for the first time? Should I push on and aim for 100 - 120?

Thanks

60PSI is far too low for a narrow road tyre - you risk snakebites at low pressures.

90+ for a narrow tyre (25C and less).

roger_merriman

francisg1 wrote:

Thanks again for all the tips and advice. Managed to get a good stock of things yesterday so hopefully I'm good now (for a couple of weeks at least!)

One other real newbie question: got one of the Lidl track pumps and pumped the tyres last night. The bike & comments I've read suggest 100 - 120psi but I stopped pumping when the gauge read around 60psi as the already felt rock-hard & I didn't want to over-inflate.

Is this a normal reaction when coming to a road bike for the first time? Should I push on and aim for 100 - 120?

Thanks

what's the max pressure on the tires? 60 is pritty low for road use, and for thin racer tires even more so, which tend to be 100+

as red has said you'll snake bite at that pressure.

francisg1

The recommended is 110 or 120psi (I'm at work so I can't remember exactly which). I was expecting to pump the tyres up to this but thought I'd stop to be on the safe side as they already felt pretty solid.

Just wanted to check whether this would normally be the case and that experienced road bikers just continue to pump, or whether the gauge on the pump itself might be faulty?

MrKawamura

I just keep pumping until I can't physically push in any more air. I don't look at the gauge as I've never believed it, but then I don't have the same pump as you...

Am I asking for a face full of rubber?

Roger_This

Been reading this thread with great interest, and I'm now wondering - apart from the stuff to wear, where do you carry the pump, spares, multitool, money, phone, snacks, skullcap and windcheater (removed when it gets too warm), and whatever else while you're riding? It all seems a bit much for the back pocket of my jersey...

Thanks,

Rog.

francisg1

Glad this thread has been of use to someone else as well. I think most people use a mini bag that fits underneath the saddle - these obviously come in varying sizes but the one I have confortable fits a spare tyre, tyre levers, multitool, money and phone. You can then get a clip to go onto the frame to hold the pump, although the mini pump I got from Lidl the other day isn't entirely suited to this purpose.

James1823

I think 120psi is far too high. You risk sliding all over the place, especially in the wet. Plus it makes for a really hard ride. Go for around 100psi.

I sometimes find if I don't have the pump fastened to the valve correctly it can give an inaccurate reading.

Barrie_G

Roger_This wrote:

Been reading this thread with great interest, and I'm now wondering - apart from the stuff to wear, where do you carry the pump, spares, multitool, money, phone, snacks, skullcap and windcheater (removed when it gets too warm), and whatever else while you're riding? It all seems a bit much for the back pocket of my jersey...

Thanks,

Rog.

I've just switched from a mountain bike so at least for this summer if I do any rides where I'm wanting to take more than a frame mounted bottle with me it will all be going in the camel back

And yes I'll still be wearing an MTB helmet complete with peak and everything 8)

Rich Hcp

You need a track pump and a mini pump because you need to maintain 100PSI, or you'll get flats.

MTB shorts on a road bike look wrong, you'll get used to lycra!

Most of all, enjoy!

Roger_This

'I've just switched from a mountain bike so at least for this summer if I do any rides where I'm wanting to take more than a frame mounted bottle with me it will all be going in the camel back

And yes I'll still be wearing an MTB helmet complete with peak and everything'

Can't help feeling the camelback will begin to feel awfy uncomfy when the weather gets warmer... but I'm with you on the peaked helmet - I like the shade... 8)

Barrie_G

Roger_This wrote:

Can't help feeling the camelback will begin to feel awfy uncomfy when the weather gets warmer... but I'm with you on the peaked helmet - I like the shade... 8)

The camel back's not so bad, and I managed to use it all last summer without it bothering me too much so I really can't see it making that much of a difference simply because I've started riding a road (ish) bike.

Though I must admit I'm making my mind up as to which one to use as I have both a mule that has around 9L of storage or the Lobo with it's 3L of storage, but I think that I'll probably try to get all my bits into the smaller Lobo to give a slightly more streamlined shape.

mea00csf

the difference between mtb ing and road biking positions means that on the mountain bike the bag will be more hung off your shoulders feeling more secure, on a road bike it's not really hung from your shoulders, more balanced on your bike which can feeling less secure. It'll be fine in the short term tho, and you might get used to it!

Barrie_G

mea00csf wrote:

the difference between mtb ing and road biking positions means that on the mountain bike the bag will be more hung off your shoulders feeling more secure, on a road bike it's not really hung from your shoulders, more balanced on your bike which can feeling less secure. It'll be fine in the short term tho, and you might get used to it!

My legs seem short compared to the length of my body, so I tend to ride with the seat and handle bars just about level with each other so I have quite a upright riding position, but I see what you mean.