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Another New bike build.....

redddraggonredddraggon Posts: 10,862
edited May 2008 in Workshop
This time it's going to be a winter bike. After spending a week on centaur equipped bike, my 2200/Sora equipped bike felt rather rubbish and heavy (too big for me anyway) when I got on it to go to work this morning.

So I've decided to go for a ribble winter frame with a mixture of veloce/daytona/centaur 06/07/08 parts to keep the cost down.

Do the ribble winter frames come ready to install the headset or do the cups etc in the headtube need facing? Will the bottom bracket need facing?

What tool do I need to install a 111mm Campag BB?

Unfortunately this bike will need to be built covertly or I've got to ditch my old bike, as I've only got space for two bikes (possible three when I get back to uni).
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  • celbianchicelbianchi Posts: 854
    redraggon - have you bought the frame. My mate has a ribble winter frame he is selling, he bought it, built it, used it 6 times then stripped it as he did not like it, so it is in perfect nick. What size do you want?
  • redddraggonredddraggon Posts: 10,862
    celbianchi wrote:
    redraggon - have you bought the frame. My mate has a ribble winter frame he is selling, he bought it, built it, used it 6 times then stripped it as he did not like it, so it is in perfect nick. What size do you want?

    Size 50(ish), although I just put the order in 10mins ago.
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  • redddraggonredddraggon Posts: 10,862
    Another question:

    Although it says the frame will take only 23mm tyres, does any know if in fact the frames have clearance for 25mm tyres?

    Hopefully my attempt at shimergoing will go well, I've got numerous good condition 8 speed cassettes and a few sets of shimano hubbed wheels - don't fancy shelling out for the expensive campag rear end just yet.
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  • Zendog1Zendog1 Posts: 816
    I have the same frame used for a winter hack with 25mm tyres (gatorskin) and full SKS mudguards. The only problem I had was getting clearance on the front mudguard - needed a bit of hacksaw work on the bracket.
  • graham_ggraham_g Posts: 652
    Mine was fine without any faffing with the headset or bottom bracket shell. I've got 23mm with guards and was wondering about getting 25's to fit myself - front looks OK to me but rear looks like there's not much room. However, this is likely to depend upon the profile of the mudguards you fit. Judging by how well they fit on my girlfriends SCR3, the SKS P35's with a totally round profile (not the ones with the mudflap on the front) appear to fit the profile of the frame and fork that bit better. Wish I'd have noticed this before getting mine!
  • redddraggonredddraggon Posts: 10,862
    Graham G wrote:
    Mine was fine without any faffing with the headset or bottom bracket shell. I've got 23mm with guards and was wondering about getting 25's to fit myself - front looks OK to me but rear looks like there's not much room. However, this is likely to depend upon the profile of the mudguards you fit. Judging by how well they fit on my girlfriends SCR3, the SKS P35's with a totally round profile (not the ones with the mudflap on the front) appear to fit the profile of the frame and fork that bit better. Wish I'd have noticed this before getting mine!

    Did you install the headset yourself? I want to all the work myself this time, and I can get a headset press for about £30 (same as what the LBS would charge to do it) - do I need a press?

    How easy is it to install the headset yourself?
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  • redddraggonredddraggon Posts: 10,862
    I think I've just answered my own question...

    Is it correct you don't need to press the headset in with any tools? So assuming the crown race is already fitted to the fork and the surfaces don't need facing, you just "throw" it all together without any tools?
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  • robbarkerrobbarker Posts: 1,367
    You can fit a headset without a press but it's a proper bodge (as in rubber mallet and block of wood time) and you risk damaging the frame. I have a Park press in the workshop here that you're welcome to use but it would cost you more in petrol to get down south than it would for your lbs to fit it. I'd query £30 btw it's a 10min job, assuming the frame is faced and reamed by the supplier.

    As for tyres, try a pair of panaracer pasela tourguard 700x25c - they are low profile for a 25, very fast yet comfy and robust. I use them on the audax bike and have domne many thousands of Km with only 1 p*nct^re I can recall.
  • redddraggonredddraggon Posts: 10,862
    robbarker wrote:
    You can fit a headset without a press but it's a proper bodge (as in rubber mallet and block of wood time) and you risk damaging the frame.

    It's a cane creek IS style headset, so by going off the Cane Creek site, am I right in thinking that I don't actually need a press for this type of headset though?
    Assembling the Headset:
    1. Slide one cartridge bearing over the fork steerer tube while ensuring the angled surface at the inside diameter of the bearing is
    downward and mates with the crown race angle.
    2. Insert the fork steerer tube into the head tube, holding it while completing the steps below.
    3. Install the upper cartridge bearing over the steerer tube while ensuring the angled surface at the outside of the cartridge bearing
    is downward and mates with the angle at the inside of the steerer tube recess.
    4. Slide the compression ring over the steerer tube with the angled surface downward so that it mates properly with the angled
    surface on the inside of the cartridge bearing.
    5. Install the upper bearing cover (It may be necessary to apply a small amount of grease to the o-ring to allow easy installation).
    6. Inspect the gap between the bottom of the upper bearing cover and the top of the head tube. If this gap is less than 0.5 mm,
    add an appropriate thickness shim washer between the compression ring and the upper bearing cover to increase the gap.
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  • mr-edmr-ed Posts: 130
    Sounds like the arrangement my new bike had, I was told by my LBS that it didn't need pressing they put it all together correctly for me.
  • robbarkerrobbarker Posts: 1,367
    Yep - looks like they are cupless.

    http://www.canecreek.com/is-8-is-8i-headsets.html

    I've never installed one but you must have to have the headtube machining absolutely spot on.
  • redddraggonredddraggon Posts: 10,862
    Well the build starts tonight, got the frame today, along with a couple of other bits...
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  • araceraracer Posts: 1,649
    I'm actually running 28s in my RIbble at the moment - no problem with clearance with the standard narrow SKS gaurds I've got on.
  • redddraggonredddraggon Posts: 10,862
    Well I've started putting all the stuff I've got together, and it does seem like there's plenty of clearance for tyres above 23mm.

    The problem that still stands (for the time being) is how to do my rear shifting. Eventually I'm going to get myself some Veloce and OP handbuilts but for the time being I'm stuck with shimano hubs - but I want to cause myself the least cost now and not waste any money anything I won't need when I get the new wheels.

    After through through the SRAM mech, Jtek Shiftmate, Sora 8speed mech and I'm finding none that's really suitable.

    I've just stumbled across Highpath Engineering that will do me a custom campag spaced cassette to fit on a shimano hub.

    Any idea how much it would likely cost me for a cassette?
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  • gkerr4gkerr4 Posts: 3,408
    i'd probably gtry and go for a set of khamsins for around £75ish and stop the fuss over changing.

    or look on fleabay for a second hand set of campag wheels no?
  • redddraggonredddraggon Posts: 10,862
    gkerr4 wrote:
    i'd probably gtry and go for a set of khamsins for around £75ish and stop the fuss over changing.

    or look on fleabay for a second hand set of campag wheels no?

    I though about that, specifically just getting a rear wheel, but I've got two decentish sets of wheels that probably won't get any use otherwise now I've decided to move totally over to Campag.
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  • gkerr4gkerr4 Posts: 3,408
    get them sold on ebay - time to move on perhaps - if you are sold on campag (as i think you are) then it is time to move on.

    im in the same boat - i want to change the trek pilot over to mirage - but the cost and the fact that I don;t need to (oh and an impending family holiday to florida which is working out to be $$$)

    :-)
  • redddraggonredddraggon Posts: 10,862
    gkerr4 wrote:
    im in the same boat - i want to change the trek pilot over to mirage - but the cost and the fact that I don;t need to (oh and an impending family holiday to florida which is working out to be $$$)

    I'm managing to change the groupset over to a mix of veloce and centaur (mixture of years) for about the same price of Mirage - I wanted the silvery look on this bike.

    dsc00690dp1.jpg
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  • gkerr4gkerr4 Posts: 3,408
    looking nice - keep us posted and with plenty of pics - always good to see a build taking shape!

    so what is the mix of components? are they all new parts just sourced wherever you could?
  • redddraggonredddraggon Posts: 10,862
    gkerr4 wrote:
    so what is the mix of components? are they all new parts just sourced wherever you could?

    A few bits have come out of my toolbox and the rest were meant to come off my carrera. I've since had permission to buy new bits for the new bike, and dump what's unserviceable from the old bike and keep what's left.

    Brakes - Centaur (06? - from the toolbox, bought off ebay ages ago)
    Ergos - Veloce 08 (new)
    Chainset - Centaur 06 (new)

    Veloce front and rear deraillers (no idea of the year)

    KMC gold chain

    Cinelli Vai stem (toolbox) and Ritchey Comp bars (CRC)

    Most of the new stuff has come from Ribble (because they were ridiculously cheap)

    Just need to source a few more bits like wheels and cassette
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  • graham_ggraham_g Posts: 652
    Bad timing on my part - weekend away meant I couldn't respond!

    Hope it goes together easily enough, mine did thanks to the split crown race on the forks and ribble installing the headset with the fork/frame/h'set package. I'll be interested to see how you think it differs from the nero corsa frame.
  • redddraggonredddraggon Posts: 10,862
    Sitting on my desk at work, I have both a SRAM rear mech and a Veloce rear mech. So should I :

    a. Give the SRAM mech and SRAM Cassette a go?

    b. Get a Campag cassette and wheel and stop buggering about?

    I didn't think I'd bought the SRAM mech, but it seems I have. Another mistake to add my comedy of errors........
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  • gkerr4gkerr4 Posts: 3,408
    personally i'd go for option 'B' and stop buggering about.


    but at the same time I am very curious to see if you can get the whole sram/campag thing working!

    wasn't the SRAM mech really expensive though? is it a road mech?
  • redddraggonredddraggon Posts: 10,862
    gkerr4 wrote:
    wasn't the SRAM mech really expensive though? is it a road mech?

    It's a rival mech, and it actually worked out cheaper than the veloce mech that I bought from ribble.
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  • redddraggonredddraggon Posts: 10,862
    Anyone know where I can get a pair of (or just rear) wheel(s) for a Campag cassette for very little money?

    Cheapest I've seen is a set of Khamsins for £86 delivered (Parkers) - anyone know anything any cheaper?
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  • gkerr4gkerr4 Posts: 3,408
    hmm - what would some pretty basic handbuilts work out - say open sports on mirage hubs?

    can't imagine it would be much over 70ish would it?
  • Sorry but I can't bite my tongue any longer cos it's starting to hurt :wink:

    Having read through the enitre thread as far as I can make out nearly the whole bike is being bought new in parts which is always an expensive way to build a bike. The only bits, to my understanding, you already had were some cheap brakes and some wheels which now look like they won't be used.

    Why didn't you just buy the complete winter bike package with campag groupset for £399 off the website? This would work out cheaper, i suspect even if you had used your wheels, and save you a lot of headache. I know I sound like a complete [email protected] and again apologise. It does look nice what you've done so far though.
    Cycling - The pastime of spending large sums of money you don't really have on something you don't really need.
  • redddraggonredddraggon Posts: 10,862
    gkerr4 wrote:
    hmm - what would some pretty basic handbuilts work out - say open sports on mirage hubs?

    can't imagine it would be much over 70ish would it?

    £98 - From Parker International for a pair.

    Are open sports actually any good though?
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  • redddraggonredddraggon Posts: 10,862
    Sorry but I can't bite my tongue any longer cos it's starting to hurt :wink:

    Having read through the enitre thread as far as I can make out nearly the whole bike is being bought new in parts which is always an expensive way to build a bike. The only bits, to my understanding, you already had were some cheap brakes and some wheels which now look like they won't be used.

    Why didn't you just buy the complete winter bike package with campag groupset for £399 off the website? This would work out cheaper, i suspect even if you had used your wheels, and save you a lot of headache. I know I sound like a complete [email protected] and again apologise. It does look nice what you've done so far though.

    Why? Well it wasn't meant to be a complete build, all I intended on doing was stripping the parts off my old bike with a couple of new bits, but I've since had the go ahead to put totally new bits on.

    £399 - yeh with old 9 speed veloce and mirage parts - I'm only around the £350 mark with decent 10 speed veloce and centaur. With the Ribble stock build I'd only have to go and upgrade bits and then It'd end up costing more than what I'm paying now.
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  • Fair enough. Keep the pics coming :D
    Cycling - The pastime of spending large sums of money you don't really have on something you don't really need.
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