Best bodge ever

Anonymous

Built me a nice little truing stand for a mere 13 quid.Its cheap, plus its way better and stiffer than that crappy minoura one.

The aforementioned wonder of home engineering comprises of:-

1x wooden base (with a rut in for straight spokes, so they dont roll about) - 3 quid
1x rear traingle of a cheap full susser - free
4x reinforced 90 degree brackets - 10 quid
1x an old bb - free
2x crankbolts - free
2x chainstay reflector brackets - free
2x normal reflector brackets - free
1x old qr skewer - free
2x 17.5mm spacers made out of an old spindle (for doing front wheels in) - free
4x m5x30 bolts - free

basically the triangle goes on the base, is supported by the 90 degree brackets, which are bolted in to the bb and the topmost pivot bit.
To check for true ive put a reflcetor bracket on the stays, with another bracket coming off it, so that the bracket on the stays is clamped on and the second bracket has a screw in that moves (hard to explain).

I must add that I work in the industry, so you might not get the old scrap and bits of bolts for free, but its a damn sight cheaper and more rewarding than buying the usual kit thats on offer. Also riding home with a rear triangle zip tied to your bike isnt a barrel of laughs but well worth it.

Any additional suggestions or improvements will be well recieved. I might send you a pic if any of you care.

Andy

Marjory Stewart BAxtor

how do you checking the dishing?

seph_16

Yeah I'd love to see a pic of it, love home made stuff like that.

allthegearnoidea

pics are a must! i love things like this!
ingenious!

i suppose you could use a turbo trainer too if you had one that is!!

god1406

well, my bike stand is made out of an old T.V tray that the b/b sits on, with two metal arms welded on to it and a tube at the end of the arms, joining them together, that replaces where the axle would be.

it even has wheels!

And my wheel-truing jig is made from a length of metal that is clamped in the vice, with a hole on one side that you can fit a wheel q/r through. To gauge where the wheel is out of line, I use a stack of magnets or some precision piece of equipment of my grandads (can't think what it's called) that can measure undulations to within thousandths of an inch

Anonymous

Alright guys,
For the first person, I bought a dishing tool for a tenner, and also a spoke tension meter for another 40, but the stand itself was still 13 quid. I'll get pics in a bit, my cameras being dodgy after being in my bag during a downpour a few months ago.

Im interested in this precision magnet equipments stuff. Tell me more if you would.

god1406

sorry, I wasn't very specific in my last post

magnet method: stack some magnets on top of each other next to a vice, then clamp the wheel in the vice however you like to do it, move the magnets until they're within spitting distance of the underside of the rim. Spin the wheel and the magnets rub on bits of the rim that aren't in line. It's quite crude, really.

The other method is if I'm feeling really fussy about getting it right. I use a DTI (dial test indicator), or 'clock gauge'. You clamp the DTI on to a surface, then alter its position in 3 dimensions (like moving the workpiece of a lathe) to bring the 'needle' as close as you want to the rim, the closer it is, the more true the wheel will end up being. If the rim is buckled, the needle is moved at that point, and the gauge it's attached to gives a reading of how much it moved by.

A bit like the one below, except mine has a G-clamp on it, is incredibly old, and made in england