Campag Zonda wheels
Hello everyone,
This might be a dumb question, but here goes. I was always told that you needed a Campy grouppo to be compatible with Campy wheels, however im looking for a wheel upgrade and these seem perfect yet my bike has Shimano 105 10 speed and ribble/wiggle sell a shimano 2008 version. So is it true that you need campy, or have they changed their policy recently or was I given wrong info initially about compatibility?? Very confusing.
Any clarification would be welcome.
This might be a dumb question, but here goes. I was always told that you needed a Campy grouppo to be compatible with Campy wheels, however im looking for a wheel upgrade and these seem perfect yet my bike has Shimano 105 10 speed and ribble/wiggle sell a shimano 2008 version. So is it true that you need campy, or have they changed their policy recently or was I given wrong info initially about compatibility?? Very confusing.
Any clarification would be welcome.
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Comments
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You can get Campagnolo Zondas for Shimano. Not only do I sell them but I use them. Great wheels for the money.0
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If you're running 10 speed Shimano the Shimano version should be fine as it is.
I was interested in a set but I was on 9 speed Tiagra so would've required a freehub change or a marchisio cassette as a work around.0 -
yep, you can get Shimano versions of the Zondas (I also have them and also love them) but a word of warning, you need a campag lockring to fit the (shimano) cassette. This isn't a problem as it should be supplied with the wheels, but it is not compatible with 11t sprockets, so you'll need a cassette that only goes to 12 or to buy a different Campag lockring. I have a 12-27 on mine and it works perfectly, although I also have an 11-23 and a campag 11t lockring sitting around which I intend to test at some stage...0
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Thanks for the responses guys. I do like the look of them, they are likely gonna be a treat for myself when i submit my PhD thesis. Are there similar/better wheels in that price bracket?0
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According to my research at the time I bought the bike and my limited experience of riding different wheels, these are some of the best in their price bracket. They are super-stiff and highly aero as well as being nice to look at and well built and lighter than the comparable Mavic or similar.
Simon0 -
Simon Notley wrote:They are super-stiff and highly aero....
You need a far deeper rim for them to be "highly aero". They are good wheels but I wouldn't say they are that aero.0 -
It's true they aren't 100% aero wheels, but the medium profile rim and bladed spokes help. The Campag hubs are also brilliant.
Hard to beat for the prce.0 -
Billios
As a Phd Thesis completion present, below is a 5% discount voucher for a pair of Campag Zondas. from www.shavedlegs.co.uk. Just enter the code at the check out.
billioszondas0 -
Shavedlegs,
do I have the right impression if i think these wheels would not work with my Shimano 105 9 Spd setup?
Or is there a spacer that would make it work?
Cheers
DanFelt F70 05 (Turbo)
Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
Scott CR1 SL 12
Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
Scott Foil 180 -
Shavedlegs wrote:It's true they aren't 100% aero wheels, but the medium profile rim and bladed spokes help.0
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Daniel B wrote:do I have the right impression if i think these wheels would not work with my Shimano 105 9 Spd setup?
Or is there a spacer that would make it work?
At the time (I think I read on here Italian Cycle Products have gone bye bye :?:) they quoted me £55.
Another suggestion was to use a cassette with a Campagnolo spline but Shimano spacing.
Ironically I'm now going the other way, having the DT Swiss wheels I bought in lieu of the Zondas converted to run 10 speed Campag. :roll:0 -
I thought my comment about aero-ness might set off a debate... I base this on a test done by cycling weekly (I think) a while back where they set Hutch (I think) off to ride at a fixed speed around a velodrome with a series of different wheels (including much deeper rimmed offerings). The identically shaped Shamals came out as the wheel requiring the lowest power to sustain this speed. Now, I'll be the first to admit that this is hardly concrete proof, but it seemed like a fairly good experiment. Admittedly deeper rimmed wheels become better when you put them in a slightly oblique wind, rather than the still air of a velodrome, but it shows that the medium-profile shape and bladed spokes are worth having, something that I was previously unsure of.0
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Simon Notley wrote:I thought my comment about aero-ness might set off a debate... I base this on a test done by cycling weekly (I think) a while back where they set Hutch (I think) off to ride at a fixed speed around a velodrome with a series of different wheels (including much deeper rimmed offerings). The identically shaped Shamals came out as the wheel requiring the lowest power to sustain this speed. Now, I'll be the first to admit that this is hardly concrete proof, but it seemed like a fairly good experiment. Admittedly deeper rimmed wheels become better when you put them in a slightly oblique wind, rather than the still air of a velodrome, but it shows that the medium-profile shape and bladed spokes are worth having, something that I was previously unsure of.
Even less scientifically, run different pairs of wheels on your turbo, and just put your hand behind the saddle to feel the amount of air turbulence for each rim. The difference between mid aero shapes like Zonda and Open Pros is really quite staggering
Alternatively, ride to your favourite downhill that you don't need to use brakes to get to the bottom safely, and starting at 15mph past a start point and keeping the same position, time yourself.-nearly 30 seconds on a 1mile hill, averaged on three funs on each set of wheels-good training for downhill, for climbing back to the start and for attracting attention from the locals :oops:“It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best..." Ernest Hemingway0 -
Ken Night wrote:Simon Notley wrote:I thought my comment about aero-ness might set off a debate... I base this on a test done by cycling weekly (I think) a while back where they set Hutch (I think) off to ride at a fixed speed around a velodrome with a series of different wheels (including much deeper rimmed offerings). The identically shaped Shamals came out as the wheel requiring the lowest power to sustain this speed. Now, I'll be the first to admit that this is hardly concrete proof, but it seemed like a fairly good experiment. Admittedly deeper rimmed wheels become better when you put them in a slightly oblique wind, rather than the still air of a velodrome, but it shows that the medium-profile shape and bladed spokes are worth having, something that I was previously unsure of.
Even less scientifically, run different pairs of wheels on your turbo, and just put your hand behind the saddle to feel the amount of air turbulence for each rim. The difference between mid aero shapes like Zonda and Open Pros is really quite staggering
Alternatively, ride to your favourite downhill that you don't need to use brakes to get to the bottom safely, and starting at 15mph past a start point and keeping the same position, time yourself.-nearly 30 seconds on a 1mile hill, averaged on three funs on each set of wheels-good training for downhill, for climbing back to the start and for attracting attention from the locals :oops:
yes, it's a big argument for not going the traditional 32/36 spoke open pro etc. etc. route. they might be bombproof but also they are windmills.
the data i've seen suggests there is less difference in terms of watts saved between a reasonably aero mid section rim like the zonda and a typical 50mm aero rim, than there is between the zonda and a 32/36spoke windmill.0 -
Windmills!? Steady on. There is no need for a handbuilt to be a 36 on a square rim, you can hand build aero wheels too.
Just to put this into perspective though, you are probably looking at a difference of less than a minute over distances of 40km at recreational speeds (say up to 20mph average). So it is not a big consideration for a tourer who wants a wheel he can repair in the field.
I'd say aero is not important in training either and only really matters in competition - so sure, buy some nice low spoke count wheels for when every second counts.0 -
yesh, I didn't say you couldn't build a handbulit aero wheel ... I have some so believe it is possible ...
the comments about the 32/ 36 spoke hoops stand though ... really not a good buy IMO now that factory builts are so strong. you're adding weight and wind resistance for no benefit.0 -
There are benefits of handbuilts that will be persuasive for some depending on intended use (easy maintenance, rebuild when rim wears out, touring with loads, touring miles from civilisation etc).
I agree though, that your average Sunday rider would be fine on factory hoops as the ones that aren't flexy cr@p and the ones that don't explode are generally good these days.0 -
My team mate had someone put a QR skewer through his wheel and it blew out half the spokes. And is still true Record on CXP-33. In the same race, another rider had a Bontrage wheel blow up on it's own. YMMV atmo0