Seat Post Sizes/Frame Material?

meagain
meagain Posts: 2,331
edited March 2008 in Road general
I'm guessing that a frame that takes a 25.4mm/1" post is NOT 531 or equivalent? The latter seems to be at or about 27-27.2, post-'50s anyway?

Any info/links gratefully received.

Thanks.
d.j.
"Cancel my subscription to the resurrection."

Comments

  • Dickie
    Dickie Posts: 1,489
    My Lenton was 1" and that was 531. So not always so. What are you looking at Dave?
  • SamWise72
    SamWise72 Posts: 453
    I think it depends WHICH 531 - there were different amounts of butting etc. I forget all the details, but 27.2 is for the thinnest/lightest. Older bikes will often be thinner seatposts. Same alloy, but wall thickness and butting makes a lot of difference to weight.
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  • meagain
    meagain Posts: 2,331
    Thanks guys. Watching a Carlton on th'bay. It's local and looks quite nice. Post size is only clue to quality. But I think it's going to go to more than I'm prepared to pay, even tho' I'm after a 27" wheeler.
    d.j.
    "Cancel my subscription to the resurrection."
  • SamWise72
    SamWise72 Posts: 453
    This one?

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Carlton-cycle-bic ... dZViewItem

    Campagnolo dropouts would normally connote a good frame - I'd be astonished if it's not 531, but it's probably straight gauge, as per the Raleigh Lenton. The Classic Rendezvous email list would be able to help you, as would the Raleigh/Carlton experts on Bikeforums Classic and Vintage section.
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  • meagain
    meagain Posts: 2,331
    Yup, that's the one. Decided I don't want to get into a battle with only one other bidder and one who's prepared to travel such a long way to collect it! Call me suspicious if you like but smacks slightly of windmilling. The other bidder didn't try for much nicer Carlton also nearby a couple of weeks ago.
    Frame No suggests it's a 1980 model.
    There's always something similar along eventually...
    d.j.
    "Cancel my subscription to the resurrection."
  • SamWise72
    SamWise72 Posts: 453
    Doesn't look 1980 to me, but I suppose it could be. I've had a Carlton from around then, and it looked a lot more modern than that. It looks more like a late 60's one I had, but it's a bit tricky to tell for sure - the photography aint helping:

    Image081.jpg
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  • meagain
    meagain Posts: 2,331
    Oh well. took a flyer - down to me at 92 quid. Bargain or shed or just OK? Find out tomorrow I guess!
    d.j.
    "Cancel my subscription to the resurrection."
  • it's strange and you can never really guess you need to measure everything...for example I have a Carlton Corsair GT from 1979, it is built according to the Reynolds transfer that WAS on it before I repainted it from Reynolds 531 butted tubes forks and stays but the rear dropouts are pressed items as are the front , not Campagnolo or Gipiemme not even Suntour and yes the seat post according to my digital vernier is 27.2mm ,there was a similar one sold recently with comments on this? forum.You can also listen to the ring made by tapping the tubes ,but you need to have a good ear and a known frame to compare it to.
    I believe Reynolds plain gauge used 26.4mm seat post but COULD be wrong.
    being a reformed stuntdrinker allows pontification
  • SamWise72
    SamWise72 Posts: 453
    You definitely get good frames with crappy dropouts, but not normally crappy frames with good dropouts. That said, it could certainly still turn out that we're wrong.
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  • meagain
    meagain Posts: 2,331
    Well....the post is undersized, the seat tube being 27 dead internal by my reckoning! Reynolds sticker badly worn but 95% certain "531Fork Blades and Stays & Butted Frame Tubes". It's a Ti (Tube Investments) one and I can't recall when they bought out Reynolds. Fr No certainly starts with WE, which according to main web resource makes it post-73 and probably 1980. Has a standard integrated rear mech hanger so '70s-'80s sounds right.
    She's a tired and care worn old thing (bit like the new owner really!), but all there and all works (ditto - nearly!). Shimano L/F hubs. Nice clamp on pump and bottle cage clamps. Surface rust but tubes "ping" nicely.
    Belonged to seller's uncle who worked in a bike shop: it's an every day bike. The VCC would probably love it just as it is: I shall just clean and polish (it's VERY dirty) and tinker a little and will do nicely for wet CTC jaunts!
    Thanks for all comments and knowledge.
    And yes I could have gone down the local Hawk Cycles outlet and bought a brand new (and in some ways better) cycle for same money, but just wouldn't be the same.
    d.j.
    "Cancel my subscription to the resurrection."
  • SamWise72
    SamWise72 Posts: 453
    You couldn't get anything comparable in quality for £92, and certainly nothing close in character.
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  • meagain
    meagain Posts: 2,331
    And...the fork steerer is stamped "Reynolds 531 Butted" so the sticker doesn't lie - and indeed is if anything understated! All coming apart easily enough, so ain't been too mistreated.
    d.j.
    "Cancel my subscription to the resurrection."
  • meagain
    meagain Posts: 2,331
    The clearances are quite close. I was going to fit 610 Weinmann C/Ps: usually OK for 27" wheel framesets, but too long. Seat cluster lug stamped 73, which I assume is the angle.
    d.j.
    "Cancel my subscription to the resurrection."
  • SamWise72
    SamWise72 Posts: 453
    If it's from 1980, it could well have had 700c's, which would mean that 27 will run up big, plus the clearances on a 1980 road/race bike will normally be tighter than on an older bike with 27's anyway. I put 27's on my similar vintage Gazelle Trim Trophy (simply cos I had them, and the old rim cracked), and clearances, whilst tight, were fine, but long reach brakes were DEFINITELY not needed!
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  • meagain
    meagain Posts: 2,331
    SamWise72 wrote:
    If it's from 1980, it could well have had 700c's, which would mean that 27 will run up big, plus the clearances on a 1980 road/race bike will normally be tighter than on an older bike with 27's anyway. I put 27's on my similar vintage Gazelle Trim Trophy (simply cos I had them, and the old rim cracked), and clearances, whilst tight, were fine, but long reach brakes were DEFINITELY not needed!

    Good point - normally I'd be surprised if anyone changed TO 27s, but if the guy worked in a cycle shop then possibly a case of whatever to hand and cheap! The frameset is very nearly identical to the early '80s Raleigh Clubman which is my fixed. But then it would be - near enough simple badge engineering by then I guess.

    I paid over the odds in my book, but not by more than about a twenty, so I can live with that! Carry on cleaning etc today....
    d.j.
    "Cancel my subscription to the resurrection."
  • meagain
    meagain Posts: 2,331
    I was wrong. A 610 Weinmann with blocks at very top of the slots will work! Good! Old side pulls are useless IMO/E. C/Ps with V pads not at all bad.
    d.j.
    "Cancel my subscription to the resurrection."
  • SamWise72
    SamWise72 Posts: 453
    I like centrepulls. I wouldn't go so far as to say useless on the old SP's, but they're for sure not as good as a set of new dual pivots. Even the bottom scraping RX100 caliper I put on the front of my Gazelle is notably better than the old Weinmann that came off.
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  • gma
    gma Posts: 7
    it's strange and you can never really guess you need to measure everything...for example I have a Carlton Corsair GT from 1979, it is built according to the Reynolds transfer that WAS on it before I repainted it from Reynolds 531 butted tubes forks and stays

    I've got a 1979 Corsair, with a 531 sticker on it. Doesn't have 531 stays/forks, just single butted main tubes. Maybe that's what you get extra with the GT.
    there was a similar one sold recently with comments on this? forum.

    That's my one. It's got a 26.8mm seat tube according to my el-cheapo vernier. Have bought it a new one but not fitted it yet...