Removing rear disc brake on a P7
clipper
Posts: 60
Hi, I'm switching the Hayes that came fitted for some Formulas. With the rear brake it looks like the cable routers on the top tube will mean the hose being disconnected at the caliper or leaver before it can be removed. Have i got this right? If something has to be removed which is going to be easiest and can i avoid having to bleed when it gets put back together? Cheers.
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if the hose is internally routed them yes you will need to bleed. And it is best to do the removing and installation with the brakes dry as you dont want fluid all over the place.
Some pics of the actual issue will help see what the actual problem is."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
Here are some pics but it sounds like an unpleasant afternoon's work
http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/1853608/
http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/1853607/0 -
PB. seems to be down for me so will look later."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
posted one on flikr too
http://www.flickr.com/photos/14068078@N00/2349054215/0 -
just how i thought it would be. yep bleeding will be needed if you are going to be routing it the same way. which will mean the purchase of a formula bleed kit. But as you will most likely need to shorten the hoses you will be needing one any way..
Personally remove the hayes and fit the formulas with cable ties for now. and when you get round to the shortening the hoses route it correctly then."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
what a fine day of maintenance it has been... first up the hose connector nut on the Hayes decided it would disintegrate before coming undone. cue hose cutters. second, when fitting the Formula rotor to the front the ti bold sheared off. thankfully it was nowhere near fully tightened and the lbs think the remains of the bolt will be removable with mole grips. there's a lesson in here somewhere, i'm just too peeved to spot it.0
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looks like the banjo needs to be removed to route the hose but the formula instructions only cover shortening hoses and don't say whether the banjo can be removed and then reinstalled. am i right in thinking the end of the hose will need to be cut and a join kit (CRC sell one) used to put it back together once routed through the frame?0
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well you will need to shorten the hose any way,
IIRC the olive, "biconical" as formula call it, will also need removing to get the female part of the banjo coupling of the hose?
so time to use the bits that cam with the brakes."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
the hose is about the right length but can probably afford to lose a few cm off it if needed. in terms of bits, the brakes didn't come with any - possibly because they were OEM. do you know what those bits might have been?0
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basically everything you need to go from a bare hose to a fitted end.
"Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
cheers Nick, i'll need the "Formula Oro Tube Joint Kit" sold by CRC0
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and a Formula bleed kit if you dont have one and DOT 4 fluid."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0
