Juicy 5's

kpr1969

pads are catching rotor on rear,,, lots of sqeeking..tried looking it up in the online manuals but keep getting run-time error..quickly followed by avid site shutdown

help please make the noise go away!!!

thanks

Matteeboy

Just sorted the very same problem.

Undo two bolts (outer edge ones), squeeze the brake lever, tighten up again - hey presto, it lines itself up and sorts itself out!

As long as the rotors aren't bent and not too mucky.

kpr1969

sounds like even I could manage that

outer edge ones???

do you have a link?

dav1

yeah a simple realign, should take no more then a few minutes.

Best way i have found it this:
reset the pistons using a plastic tyre leaver or (being VERY careful) a large flat blade screwdriver and push the pads back into their bores.

Replace the rear wheel loosely, turn the bike on its wheels, lossen off the QR before fully securing the wheel (this allows the bikes weight to force the wheel completely into the dropouts, doing this every time will make sure everying is always 100% aligned)

next undo the two bolts on top of the caliper enough for it to move left and right freely with minimal up/down movement.

Once this is done lift the back up off the ground and spin the wheel, pull on the rear brake leaver and hold it on (you may want a zip tie or rubber band to help). Whilst the brake is locked on retighen the bolts and you should have it perfectly aligned.

Matteeboy

I only did the last bit (last two paragraphs) of Dav1s method!

Seemed to work fine.

If you look on Avid's website, they have tech manuals.

http://www.sram.com/en/service/avid/tech_manuals.php

tmg

Just for clarity, the two bolts they are referring to are the ones connecting the caliper to the mount, not the two bolts connecting the mount to the frame

push the pads back using tyre lever or flat head screwdriver, squeeze your break lever till it bites the rotor then whilst still squeezing tighten the bolts, hey presto caliper alligned

Matteeboy

Check the pic on the Avid site - it's the bolt at the top right of the pic and the bottom right (you cna zoom in) - the ones that are side-on in this pic.

http://www.sram.com/en/avid/hydraulicdi ... yfive.php#

Don't overtighten them though - not sure why but it says about it somewhere.

Sorry for my very untechnical lingo!

kpr1969

sorted...
excellent, 1st bit of bicycle maintenance completed successfully.
Wheel rolls true an without rubbing, hindrance or horrible noise..

cheers fellas

Matteeboy

Nice one!

kpr1969

nooooo!!! the same problem has returned...
worse than ever now...
is this something that usually re-occurs or could it be something faulty?

omegas

If you have realigned the caliper and its keeps rubbing after you operate the lever a few times you probably have a sticking piston.

1. Pull the pads out and operate the lever and see if the pistons are moving equal.
2. Push them back in and do this a few times as this will get them moving again.
3. Wipe the piston with some brake fluid or lube when out and push back in.
4. If one piston moves and not the other hold it in with a lever and the other will move.

It happens often if one piston is working harder than the other, one ends up sticking.
If you have uneven pad wear it can be a sticking piston and checking the operation of the pistons is something to have on your maintenance schedule every few months.

clarkson

be aware it also happens when the hub needs adjusting. is there any side to side play in the bearings? this has happened on several of my bikes which i thought was an alignment problem. turned out to be the hubs.

also, make sure you tighten the bolts back up securely!!