creeping seatpost...
shefbiker
Posts: 255
Anyone got any (polite!) ideas on how to stop my seatpost creeping down? I've got the quick release clamp set about as tight as I dare, but over a week or so of daily use it creeps down by about an inch or so...
Thanks
Thanks
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Comments
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It's not a Klien by any chance?0
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nope, specialized rockhopper 07. it's done it pretty much since it was new...0
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Get a bolted seat clamp.0
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Yeh, i thought about that, but I like to be able to drop my saddle for the steep bits... I guess a new QR is the way to go then and see what happens...0
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QRs generally aint as tolerant of intelorences in the seatube/seatpost machineing. One with a good mechanism may work better. I'd recommend Salsa.
Where in Shef?!0 -
I've also started having a similar problem today.
I have a relavtiely new frame and seat post (end Dec '07) and when out riding today it has started to slip in quite a dramatic way. It's an Easton EA50 seat post. The QR clamp was also new in Dec - all set up by the LBS. I'm not sure offhand the seat clamp make.
It wasn't possible to stop it slipping down even on a section of road, slipping down one 'notch' on the seat after just a few minutes. I noticed the problem this afternoon - I was just trying my SPDs stationary having never used them before, and found as I was trying the twisting action to unclip, the seat post was twisting. No slipping down at this stage, that didn't start til out on the trail.
I have had to tighten the clam pretty tightly in order to stop it slipping down enough to make it back - probably almost as tight as I could get it - so I'm slightly concerned I may have damaged the post.
Is this likely to be remedied by a new seat clamp also?
Cheers,
Steve0 -
Possibly. Again all to do with tolerances. Never try to force it too hard though. Sometimes cleaning the tube and post, and using fresh greasde cures it. Even get newer greases now with more 'grip'!0
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One thing I would suggest (sorry if it's REALLY obvious!) is to check that you have the bolt-side of the clamp lined up with the cut section of the seattube. If they are not in the same place, you can tighten all you want but will not be pulling the frame in enough to grab the post.
I tried my clamp the other way round to try to cover the seattube cut as it is rear facing and i wanted to keep the crud out but it slipped very easily. I put it back the correct way and has not moved since (and I am over 14st!).
Hope that this helps.
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.Now living happily at http://www.uk-mtb.com !!0 -
Ive been having the same problem, but mines got a shim in to take it from 27.2 to 29.something . The seatpost is a carbon one too. Ive got a new carbon strangler from bbb and everythings lined up but its still slipping. The shim is the correct size and everything. Im at a bit of a loss really. Any ideas guys,
Andy0 -
Definitely the right shim? Try that pace carbon grease.0
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Hi,
Thanks for the reply.Never try to force it too hard though.
I was trying not to, but it was getting a bit concerning trying to get back. I've been pretty careful with it generally.Even get newer greases now with more 'grip'!
A contradiction in terms, surely! I've not seen such a grease though.
I was starting to wonder about that. After the bike was rebuilt I used it for a while without the rear crud catcher on there then put it back for the previous ride I went on. Getting it on meant a lot of the grease was removed from the seat post. I've not ridden it 'properly' since that ride due to moving, so it would make sense...
Cheers,
Steve0 -
Thanks Big GT!One thing I would suggest (sorry if it's REALLY obvious!) is to check that you have the bolt-side of the clamp lined up with the cut section of the seattube. If they are not in the same place, you can tighten all you want but will not be pulling the frame in enough to grab the post.
That's blinding obvious....and exactly how the LBS have not installed the seat clamp! The change in Dec was a frame swap on insurance, and the old frame had the cut in the back of the seat tube. This one has it in the front, but the bolt is still round the back!
I'll try switching it around...
Cheers,
Steve0 -
Man up, do it up as tight as you can by hand, then undo it, tighten it up another half turn with an allen key and use both hands to tighten it, job done.0
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Here you go:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=26768
Uses larger particles in the grease so less clamping orce required to maintain the post in its position.0 -
Definitely the right shim. I remember it was inscribed on the shim when i put it in. And its definitely tight enough, maybe too much so, most probably past recommended torque settings.
Might try that grease. Any links to it? Cant seem to find it.
Was also thinking about using spoke freeze as it works in the presence of grease. Could be costly considering the smattering you get for the price. any other ideas on this or otherwise?0 -
Link in the post above yours ;-)0
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thanks0
