building your own bike
Comments
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Thanks for pointing out about the tubulars... I guess that makes gkerr post irrelivant as I wouldn't be able to have rim tyres anywy lol.
Just out of interest whats difference between tubular and rim tyres... and whats advantages etc?0 -
I would also spend a bit more, and buy the whole DuraAce groupset in one package.
Merlin sell the full compact package for £520.0 -
Tubular tend to be lighter, and apperently give a better ride.
But you have to send them off to a specialist for the puncture to be repared. Clinchers can swap the innertube out on the side of the road. Oh and tubulars you glue the tyre down.
Also, i think i read a review of their carbon frame once, didn't come out hugely, not sure i'll have a look around, though for that sorta cash you could get a really niiiice frame i think.
Edit// Ok thought you were spending £750 on the frame and fork.0 -
Frame is not confirmed, only one PBK do, I will be doing a bit of looking around first.
If you have to "glue" tubulars down, and you have to send them off to a specialist to get them repaired isn't that kind of "bad"?
I have no objection to buying from different suppliers... I was thinking doing a majority on ebay as it seems prices can be significantly cheaper in many areas.
Anyone have any frame recommendations?0 -
http://wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx? ... on%20Frame
But then you'd have to put Campag on to stick with heritage if you're into all that.
RedDragon's frame is nice, i quite like mine, and Dolan have a large choice.
Planet X but that'd ruin the point a bit of custom building i suppose. Gkerr likes specialised, and they provided him really good customer support.
Tubulars are good for racing, and clinchers good for everyday is the conclusion that i came to.
Oh and i'm just throwing ideas out btw, chances are you'll find something and fall in love with it and want it.0 -
Regarding tools, I admit I do not hve all tools required... At the most I have a tool to lock the casette into place lol. But I really need tools whether Im going to build a bike or not, so no point adding that into expenses at this point.0
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azzerb, the frame you shwed me weighs a total of 1790g... not really what I was after.
and more expensive.. slightly confused there?0 -
webbhost wrote:Regarding tools, I admit I do not hve all tools required... At the most I have a tool to lock the casette into place lol. But I really need tools whether Im going to build a bike or not, so no point adding that into expenses at this point.
Chain splitter
Set of allen keys
Maybe a torque wrench if you're specefic (I didn't use and build came out fine)
Long hex key (I think, but only for Ultratorque, which is campag)
Wire cutters.
Oh the frame, was expensive but good name, and the frame is 70g heavier than the PBK, not inc forks etc.0 -
as stated, not particually bothered about going into big names because it usually results in high costs for little improvement. Thanks for the suggestion through. I guess I should confirm with PBK that their frame weight does include the fork weight?
Does seem a bit light.
**edit
Whoops, well theres 1 slip up.... I didn't get the weight of frame including forks... taht adds an extra 800g on.
That really is a bummer sending the weight to 7673g.
Still fairly light through.0 -
webbhost wrote:Frame is not confirmed, only one PBK do, I will be doing a bit of looking around first.
If you have to "glue" tubulars down, and you have to send them off to a specialist to get them repaired isn't that kind of "bad"?
I have no objection to buying from different suppliers... I was thinking doing a majority on ebay as it seems prices can be significantly cheaper in many areas.
Anyone have any frame recommendations?
I would say it was bloody inconvenient personally. Why not save yourself a heap of hassle and just go for clinchers?0 -
ok wheels changed to "2 x Michelin Pro 3 Race Black 700c x 23mm - BRAND NEW FOR 2008"
weight 1485g, price 462.39
New current weight: 7608g
Price: £1825.29
Getting pretty tired now, I think I may carry on the research in the morning?0 -
webbhost wrote:as stated, not particually bothered about going into big names because it usually results in high costs for little improvement. Thanks for the suggestion through. I guess I should confirm with PBK that their frame weight does include the fork weight?
Does seem a bit light.
**edit
Whoops, well theres 1 slip up.... I didn't get the weight of frame including forks... taht adds an extra 800g on.
That really is a bummer sending the weight to 7673g.
Still fairly light through.
The PBK frame comes with headset, fork and seat post and comes in at is it 2.04kg for all of those?0 -
azzerb Now that I figured the real weight of that PBK frame... that one you posted suddenly seems quite more interesting.... lol
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OTOH and just as an example £1560 would have bought you a Colnago C40 Carbon with Record on th'bay last week!
IMO/E it is not easy to get below 16lbs even with say a 2nd hand frameset for less than 1500 quids if buy in parts. A complete bike is nearly always cheaper.d.j.
"Cancel my subscription to the resurrection."0 -
Why the fascination with weight? What are you going to be using the bike for? You should really concentrate less on the weight and more on how the bike will ride - the saddle may be light, but is it going to cut you in two after an hour? Do you want campag or Shimano?
BTW - I don't think the Deda 215 handlebar's will fit a Zero stem. The stem's oversize, the bars aren't (could be worng tho', haven't checked)Carlsberg don't make cycle clothing, but if they did it would probably still not be as good as Assos0 -
redddraggon wrote:Get some Neutron Ultras for £360, and Get Carbon Centaur. Better than your Shimano mix, and unknown wheels.
That's an excellent price. Out of curiosity, who's selling them at £360?0 -
APIII wrote:redddraggon wrote:Get some Neutron Ultras for £360, and Get Carbon Centaur. Better than your Shimano mix, and unknown wheels.
That's an excellent price. Out of curiosity, who's selling them at £360?
I got mine from Ribble for £360 in January.0 -
This thread is joke. For gods sake slow down! If you're going to just spend one evening specing any parts that look ok then you're going to make mistakes and you might aswell just buy an off the peg bike. Building a decent bike takes time. Have a look around at all the options, read the reviews, think about what qualities you require from each part. Make sure you know all the measurements and that you're picking components that suit your style of riding and then start looking out for stuff. Give it some thought man!! Every little detail requires some thought. Your first list you'd missed out half the things that make up a bike!
When I built my bike I bought the frame on the 1st October and didn't build it until the start of February. I asked alot of questions here, I scoured ebay and the classifieds ads on any cycling website I could find and eventually I was good to go. I spent nearly £1500 but saved nearly £1000 (yes 1k) on RRPs. You're a mug if you just go and buy a load of stuff that sounds good and is light, you're missing out on the main point of building a bike. Its just as much about the journey as it is about the destination.
Here's some questions that cropped up on my build...
Do I want compact or standard chainset?
What sizes do I want on my cassette?
Do I need a short or long cage mech to work with the cassette I've chosen?
Do I need to splash out on a fancy chain?
What pedal system do I want to use? Speedplay? SPD? Look? Time?
Is Campag or Shimano more suitable for me?
Do I want handbuilt or factory built wheels?
Will deep sections be too prone to sidewinds for the terrain I live in?
Will the noisy freewheel on Campag wheels annoy me?
What size bars to I want and what shape drops do I want them to have?
Is the bike going to be too stiff if I spec too much Carbon?
How long do I want my stem to be and what size clamps do I need?
How many spacers do I need?
Do I need cable adjusters?
Has the frame got a cable guide?
Does the frame have an Italian or English BB thread?
What kind of BB does the chainset I've chosen require?
Is the Q factor ok on the chainset?
What greases and thread locks do I need for assembly?
Have I got some cable cutters?
and on and on and on!
Its fair enough being excited about it and don't get me wrong, its a great project building a bike but you've got to give it more thought I'm afraid! If you're not prepared to spent a bit of time just go down the shop and splash your cash on a new bike otherwise you'll end up with a frankenstein bike or just a pile of mismatched parts under your bed that you can't be arsed to sort out.0 -
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heavymental is right - it took me months of planning and examining geometry, fit, specs etc... - you can't do it in a night. make sure you get the right frame that fits and is suitable for the role you want the bike to fulfil - then add the components you want ..0
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Heavymental is right. You can't just do everything in one night.
It took me about 6 weeks to do everything. If you building your own bike you should know already what you like/need ie gear ratios, campag/shimano, frame size.
Choosing components by what they weigh isn't the best idea. Component reliability is more important than weight.0 -
Heavymental wrote:This thread is joke. For gods sake slow down! If you're going to just spend one evening specing any parts that look ok then you're going to make mistakes and you might aswell just buy an off the peg bike. Building a decent bike takes time. Have a look around at all the options, read the reviews, think about what qualities you require from each part. Make sure you know all the measurements and that you're picking components that suit your style of riding and then start looking out for stuff. Give it some thought man!! Every little detail requires some thought. Your first list you'd missed out half the things that make up a bike!
When I built my bike I bought the frame on the 1st October and didn't build it until the start of February. I asked alot of questions here, I scoured ebay and the classifieds ads on any cycling website I could find and eventually I was good to go. I spent nearly £1500 but saved nearly £1000 (yes 1k) on RRPs. You're a mug if you just go and buy a load of stuff that sounds good and is light, you're missing out on the main point of building a bike. Its just as much about the journey as it is about the destination.
Here's some questions that cropped up on my build...
Do I want compact or standard chainset?
What sizes do I want on my cassette?
Do I need a short or long cage mech to work with the cassette I've chosen?
Do I need to splash out on a fancy chain?
What pedal system do I want to use? Speedplay? SPD? Look? Time?
Is Campag or Shimano more suitable for me?
Do I want handbuilt or factory built wheels?
Will deep sections be too prone to sidewinds for the terrain I live in?
Will the noisy freewheel on Campag wheels annoy me?
What size bars to I want and what shape drops do I want them to have?
Is the bike going to be too stiff if I spec too much Carbon?
How long do I want my stem to be and what size clamps do I need?
How many spacers do I need?
Do I need cable adjusters?
Has the frame got a cable guide?
Does the frame have an Italian or English BB thread?
What kind of BB does the chainset I've chosen require?
Is the Q factor ok on the chainset?
What greases and thread locks do I need for assembly?
Have I got some cable cutters?
and on and on and on!
Its fair enough being excited about it and don't get me wrong, its a great project building a bike but you've got to give it more thought I'm afraid! If you're not prepared to spent a bit of time just go down the shop and splash your cash on a new bike otherwise you'll end up with a frankenstein bike or just a pile of mismatched parts under your bed that you can't be arsed to sort out.
Absolutely . When I built my first bike (a winter bike ) it took me ages to decide what frame I was going to get then al lthe individual parts . I got a great deal of pleasure from the thought process of building the bike and selecting the individual components , then the actual build once I'd finally got all the bits .........for me twas all part of the experience . I certainly didn't view it as a cost cutting excercise but it was merely a process which enabled me to build a bike that was right for me .Luke0 -
Carlsberg don't make cycle clothing, but if they did it would probably still not be as good as Assos0
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How about starting from:
What bike do you have now?
What is good about it?
What would you like to change about it?
Perhaps people will be able to offer you advice on specific parts/combination that improve the things you want changed for your next bike.0 -
Some of those questions will be answered once you buy the frame. The frame should be the first thing you buy and then you can work from there.0
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HeavyMetal is right, it took me a while researching and dreaming, Though the combination of Centaur on offer and the frame which I'd seen months before on offer made me jump to ordering those parts, then working out the other parts.
Throwing idea's at us like we've been doing is good, and us throwing a lot more back at you is good as well. But they're only idea's on possibilities, in the end it should take a while to work out what you want once you've seen a lot of ideas. Unless you were meaning to throw a lot of them and then grab the credit card, but i didn't think you meant that.0 -
Actually. What you have done earlier on was part of my process too. I made a list of all the stuff I needed and had a quick look online to find what price I could get it for. I then had a list of desirable products and their RRP. I then spent the next few months looking for them on sale or second hand, or, finding cheaper (and often better) alternatives on sale or second hand.
For example. Lets say I'm thinking about getting a PBK team issue frame for £630. "Ok" I say to myself, "I'm in no rush, lets see what comes up before I take the plunge". So then I go and have a look on ebay and on the classifieds ads page of every cycling website I can find on google (that I've put in my favourites so I can flick through them all every day). And then one day I look on bikeradar and I find this... http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtop ... t=12561698 and I say to myself "Well, I can get myself a very nice Six13 frame there for only £70 more than the PBK frame. And thats if I don't manage to knock him down to £630 which is entirely possible. So I give the guy a ring and I've sorted out a very nice frame to start off my project (its not mine btw!!).
Repeat for every part you need and you've sorted out a tidy bike at an excellent price.
Here's another tip for you, and everyone wanting to buy any kit at all. Get in touch with a company called veloaddict, tell them what you need, even if you don't see it on their website, and see what price they can give you. I'd almost guarantee you'll be very pleased. Again, nothing to do with me but after alot of internet research, they came out very well for me.0 -
,lots of threads posted since I was on last.
Heavymental, dont worry, I do fully understand what you are saying, and no I am not just going to go out and spend 2000 quid on a load of random components... Its taken 2 years to save that amount, so I'm not just going to "jump in and get dirty", and should I choose to go ahead and build my own bike, it will be with plenty of planning and research. As of the minute, I am the stone skimming across the top of the water, not knowing what lies underneath. But I wont be plunging next time I hit the surface and want to make a start either.
Granted last night I did go a bit crazy with weight, and wanted to see just how light I could get it for the price budget i have... but I'm only on the surface right now, I want to see what is "possilble" for the price. I dont expect the final bike to come out this light.What bike do you have now?
What is good about it?
What would you like to change about it?
Ok: What bike do I have now?
Dawes Giro 300. Previous bike before this was a saarecen mountain bike. (2+ years ago)
What is good about it?
I like the body positioning on the bike, I'm definately a drop bar person! and The seat is fairly comfortable. Can get some decent speed out of it aswell.
What would I like to change?
Overall the bike just feels too heavy. 11.5 Kilo's when bought, but not sure now as alot of parts have been changed due to maintinence etc. When going uphill, I just slow down too quickly, and I feel as if I am fighting the bike. One method of doing this that I have considered is to move to carbon forks, however the bike is left outside most of the time, and It would highly increase the chance of someone stealing it.
Moving away from weight and speed through, should I not be considering this "investment" lets say of a new bike, I would add aero bars to improve on my position when on long flats. Apart from that I dont really see what I can improve on to make a significant difference, that isn't going to turn the bike expensive. (Take in mind, that my current bike is a commuting bike. The bike that I am interested in buying / building would be a training / racing / time trialling bike.Some of those questions will be answered once you buy the frame. The frame should be the first thing you buy and then you can work from there.
Dont worry, I already had that one figured out. Buy the frame first after I'm 100% its the frame for me, Then research each bit as i go along and when I make decisions, I make my next purchase.0 -
That cannondale actually looks like a rather nice frame, but as a guess, anyone on here would be suggesting for me to skip this one, and do some research first? To buy it now would be a daft idea because I dont know if it will fit me etc etc and etc.
Or, once I have found out if the frame would fit me, would it be a decent idea to take the "Start with the frame" idea, and contact wheeler regarding his offer?
Should I consider at this point or shouldn't I?0 -
Thats good Webbhost, I was worried you sounded like you were a man on a one day mission with a credit card about to get busy!
With the weight issue...you'll usually find that quality branded components will be light enough. When I was buying stuff, after ensuring it would function ok I just concentrated on brand, rrp and looks to be honest! If it was made by a reputable company and of the right materials and looked the biz then I was happy that it would be light enough. Top companies don't generally make expensive kit that weighs a ton. I checked reviews on roadbikerider and looked on various forums for any comments (just google whatever you're considering), asked about the options on the knowhow section if necessary and then made the purchase if the price was right. I ended up with a very light bike. It could have been lighter maybe but the difference of a few hundred grams wasn't a concern for me. I wanted to make sure I had quality components first, knowing that weight would be an associated benefit.
With the cannondale frame. I wouldn't rush into it. Its probably not a mega bargain once you look around. What you need to do is get your bike out and measure it. If you're happy with the body position then you want to replicate that on your new bike. That means making sure the top tube is the same length measured from the centre of the headtube to the centre of the seatube where the top tube intersects it. Whenever you're considering buying a frame, have a look at the geometry diagrams which you can usually find online and see if it matches. Frame sizes will vary by manufacturer. Have a look at my early headaches re relation of given frame size to top tube length... http://tinyurl.com/24y89v you can also get into confusion about angles of headtubes etc but I wouldn't worry too much about that. Also, find out what length your stem is, what width your bars are, what length your cranks are etc. You need all these measurements so you know what to buy to make the bike feel like your current set up. Course, the dimensions will feel the same but it'll be half the weight, the kit will be high quality so you'll get no rattles or rough edges!
Anyway...heres what I ended up with http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtop ... 1&start=30 largely built from second hand or cheap-as-I-could-find-after-lots-of-research bits! That stem you see there is a time monolink carbon stem retailing at £149. Mine for £50 and largely unused. The bars are £150 worth of FSA K-Wings for £50. I was pretty pleased with the £200 I saved on rrp on those two items alone!0
