Converting to tubeless

JAGGY

I'm thinking about ditching my inner tubes in my new tires. The Bontrager Jones MUD-X say tubeless ready. Is it worth it?

What does anyone think of the stans no tubes kits etc???
Are they easy to fit etc?
Which kit would be the best to go for?

Thankyou

S_J_P

It's a bit of a faff, but well-worth it! The first tyre took me around an hour and I had real problems initially seating the bead

The second tyre was done and dusted in less than half that time though. Since the change I've not had to repair a single puncture

I used the Joe's NoFlats system (free with a MBUK subscription) which (like Stans) has a rim-strip/valve. I have heard good reviews of the Eclipse system with separate rim-strip and valve which is more flexible. Here are my tips for the most efficient fitting, most of which are from the Stans video (which is well worth a watch)....

Enlarge the inner valve hole and make sure you file the holes rim smooth (prevents bulging of the rimstrip around the valve)
Wet the rimstrips with soapy water before installing them (helps them seat evenly).
Make sure the rimstrips tension is even and that there are no narrow areas where it’s pulled tight.
Make sure the rimstrips edges are even on both sides of the rim and fully seated below the bead lock (use a plastic tyre lever).
After mounting the tyre, use more soapy water on the bead and rimstrip again to lubricate it and aid sealing.
Banging around the tread of the mounted (but deflated tyre) splays the bead opening aiding sealing.
Pressing down on the tyre tread above the valve seats that bit of the bead and starts the inflation process going in the right direction.
A helper, banging the tyre tread to splay the bead whilst inflating can help.
A ratchet-strap or luggage strap around the tyre circumference when pulled tight helps seat the bead.
If you haven’t got a compressor, you can initially check the seating of the tyre bead using a CO2 cartridge before the sealant is added (but deflate and get as much CO2 out as you can before adding the sealant)
Don’t use valve-applicator bottles for sealant for the initial filling, pour the sealant into the partially mounted tyre at the bottom, then rotate the tyre 180º before remounting the bead at the top (prevents sealant loss when remounting).
Pump like mad using the biggest Track Pump you can lay your hands on!
Spin the wheel, and then start the shaking process. After each full rotation, lay the wheel horizontally on top of a bucket or box for five minutes to help the bead and sidewalls seal. Repeat at least twice for each side of the wheel.

artillerydave

I too would recommend the tubeless way, no punctures at all and great tyre feel, I used the DT Eclipse kit which has a seperate valve, great clear set of instructons too, by the way do not enlarge the valve hole if you go for DT kit there is no need. As your tyre is tubeless ready you will have to run with a sealant whereas with UST tyres sealant is optional.

make the switch you won't regret it.