How to cut a steerer tube! HELP!!!!!!!!
I have just bought my new Merida Am-500 and I am really pleased with it. Apart from the forks. I am going to buy a set of Rockshox Recons but I am unsure about the steerer length. I am sure I will have to cut it but I don't know how. Can you just do this with a saw or do you reckon it would just be better to get the bike shop to fit them and have the confidence that it was all okay. I think I couldput the forks on but just not to sure about the cut.
Cheers
Cheers
I wish I could afford the hope factory 
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I cut mt carbon steerer tube with my bandsaw but it should be quite easy with a hacksaw. Mark where you want to make the cut with masking tape - that will ensure it's marked exactly square to the tube (it'll look twisted if you don't get it right).
Remember - measure twice (at least) and cut once. It might be as well to cut it a bit long and take up the extra with spacers above the handlebar extension until you're sure where you want it. It's a lot easier to shorten it more than to lengthen it
If you feel nervous then perhaps it might be better to get it done but the tape marking method will still apply.
GeoffOld cyclists never die; they just fit smaller chainrings ... and pedal faster0 -
I cut mine halfway through with a pipecutter, then finished it off with a saw as it was a carbon steerer tube i didn't want to add too much stress to it by finishing it with the pipe cutter.0
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Can I get the needed steerer length for my new forks from my old set of forks or does it change? I would imagine it would be the same length.
Great help though. I have ebay voucher from ebay extra so will be putting that toward it!I wish I could afford the hope factory0 -
grazo22 wrote:Can I get the needed steerer length for my new forks from my old set of forks or does it change? I would imagine it would be the same length.
Only if the head tube is exactly the same length.
A better way is to fit the forks, complete with bearings, held in place with the handlebar extension and mark where you need to cut it. It won't be ridable like that because you won't be able to pre-load the headset but it'll be near enough to get the length right.
GeoffOld cyclists never die; they just fit smaller chainrings ... and pedal faster0 -
You bunch of Big Girl's Blouses.
A two pound hammer and a cold chisel is far quicker than hours sodding about with a hacksaw. You can guess the length, what the hell are spacers for?0 -
Smokin Joe wrote:You bunch of Big Girl's Blouses.
A two pound hammer and a cold chisel is far quicker than hours sodding about with a hacksaw. You can guess the length, what the hell are spacers for?
My way took less than 2 minutes, excluding your ignore the length period. :P0 -
I'd use a hacksaw - worked fine for me.
it's a hard life if you don't weaken.0 -
a few things to remember. after cutting remove the burrs. and you will need to add the star nut (or other device) and the crown race from the old fork will need to be swapped over from the old fork (unless you are fitting a new headset).
If you will be having a new headset fitted wait until it is fitted before cutting. A tip leave the steerer 25mm over length and put spacers on top of the stem to allow fine tuning. when happy trim to the length needed. Final consideration stems and headsets can have very varied stack heights so if you are thinking about any future changes.....
Have a look at parktools for some pics and how toos re-headsets and crown races....."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
I agree with "Smokin Joe"
Are you are are you not men?0 -
I have been told a good method is to put a pipe/hose clip around the steerer where you want to cut. Then you have a good fixed guide for your saw blade as we all know that hacksaw blades can tend to not run perfectly square to a tube.
I have not used the method myself as I have not yet needed to, but it seems a good idea.
Cheers, Phil0 -
Much less hard than you imagine. 90% of it is anxiety for some reason when it comes to Carbon stubes. I just cut laf way from one side and then half way from the other side so as to avoid the layer peeling effect.0
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If you buy the forks from your LBS they'd probably cut them for you. A friend of mine offered to cut and fit another friends forks (£400s worth) as a favour, but cut them too short - oops!!!~~~~~~Sustrans - Join the Movement~~~~~~0
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JUST 2 STUPID QUESTIONS
is the Rockshox Recons made of carbonfiber?
why are you all talking about carbonfiber?0 -
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If you have to ask get the LBS to do it! They do it all the time. Maybe I'm a covard but this is one job I can't really see myself ever doing.
p.Never order anti-pasta to arrive at the same time as pasta.0 -
I assume the Rocksox have an alu steerer. The easiest and most accurate way is with a pipe cutter, makes a clean cut and no worries about getting it straight. I got an Ice Toolz one for £15 on eBay (meant for bikes) but a plumbers one of the right size should do just as well and may be able to get one between £5 and £10. You will need the tube to be about 2mm shorter than the final stack height including spacers to allow for the headset cap to fit inside with some gap to allow for tensioning.
(see Cutting and Sizing Forks, Park Tools).
If it were me I would cut it longer than before and get some extra spacers, it will allow you more adjustability (you can vary spacer position beneath or on top of stem), and a minor issue, it makes the fork potentially more saleable if you ever wanted to sell it on.
Okay, I realise this may be a bit "aesthetically challenged" but I am happy with it!0 -
Don't forget that you shouldn't use a star nut in a carbon steerer.0
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Rockshox Recons are x-country suspension forks with an alu steerer.0
