How much kinetic energy does a cyclist have?

Just a point I wondered on the way home, steaming along at 25mph (Wearing jeans and a big backpack!) with a great tailwind. How much energy would a 13 stone cyclist be carrying at that sort of speed?
25mph seems nothing in today's world where people can get in a car and be doing three figure speeds in less than ten seconds in some cases.
But when you think about it, a bicycles components must have to routinely deal with some pretty hefty (Technical term) forces, for the size of them. It's just that in comparison to other vehicles they seem trivial.
I dunno. Rambling now anyway, so over to you!
25mph seems nothing in today's world where people can get in a car and be doing three figure speeds in less than ten seconds in some cases.
But when you think about it, a bicycles components must have to routinely deal with some pretty hefty (Technical term) forces, for the size of them. It's just that in comparison to other vehicles they seem trivial.
I dunno. Rambling now anyway, so over to you!
2007 Giant SCR2 - 'BFG'
Gone but not forgotten!:
2005 Specialized Hardrock Sport - 'Red Rocket'
Gone but not forgotten!:
2005 Specialized Hardrock Sport - 'Red Rocket'
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that will be all
trying to get GT James banned since tuesday
Mass in Kg, V im m/s.
Get your calculator out.
Gone but not forgotten!:
2005 Specialized Hardrock Sport - 'Red Rocket'
where * is multiply
Not sure how this figure will of much use . . . .
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kinetic_energy
http://science.howstuffworks.com/fpte9.htm
you did ask!
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with the kinetic energy calculation it is the mass of the rider plus luggage plus bike ie the total mass of every thing travelling at that velocity.
See, they return, and bring us with them.
p. (yep a bloody physicist...)
Instantaneous torque is applied in a pseudo-sinusoidal manner relative to crank position. From a maximal peak around the 3-9 o'clock crank position to minimal around the 6-12 o'clock crank position.
Typically however it is measured as an average over the full crank revolution. This is how most leading power meters work, they measure the torque applied (either at the crank or at the rear hub) via strain gauges over a full revolution and multiply that by the pedal speed/cadence (or hub rpm) and a factor to account for crank length to determine the power output.
Knowing torque on its own is pretty useless without knowing pedal speed (cadence). You could be applying a lot of torque but not be going anywhere. Likewise you can spin really fast but have torque so low that not much is happening. Bit like doing max cadence test on a trainer with no resistance. Tells you censored all.
In layman's terms
Power = Torque x Cadence (plus a factor for crank length)
LOL
Its like the red arrows (way over my head)
http://deadpool2e.pinkbike.com/channel/Afan-Vids/
MOUNTAIN BIKING- The pastime of spending large sums of money you don't really have on something you don't really need.
fair enough, was just wondering since i used to pull the back wheel of my mountain bike skewed from pedaling regardless of how tight i did the QR
managed it with the road bike's bolt in rear wheel occasionally too... managed to get them both very tight (the mountain bike requires a tap with a hammer and a spanner as a lever to get it off)
that will be all
trying to get GT James banned since tuesday
If Chris Hoy doesn't pull a wheel, then either you're stronger than him or your equipment isn't up to the job or is not tightened appropriately. Perhaps you have QR/bolts that are not suited to the job.
The loose/dodgy QR question has been covered many times before.
I had a mate who was into body building who came out cycling with me a few times. He had enormously strong legs, but a ridiculous sense of gear selection. I saw him put so much force through the chain on hills that he destroyed the thing, but his wheel never came loose. I'd done up the QR and I didn't use a hammer to do it - just the press hard enough that the QR lever makes an imprint on the hand technique.
I'm nearly 6' 2" and I climbed 25% gradients on my bike when I weighed 16+ stone. I had to use every last bit of my strength to do it but I never pulled a wheel loose.
I know people who have pulled wheels out and in every case it was due to either using cheap nasty skewers or expensive stretchy Ti skewers.
or not riding a bike with vertical drop outs...
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Gone but not forgotten!:
2005 Specialized Hardrock Sport - 'Red Rocket'
Touche.
The force required to pull a rear wheel out when it is held in place by a decent quality QR skewer done up properly is much greater than can be exerted through a bike chain.
PS One other thing... the QR 'nut' has to be able to bite into the surface of the dropout. I've heard of people having problems with dropouts made of superhard 6/4 Ti, but there aren't too many of those about.
The interesting thing is that the torque measured is not absolute but net torque as there is negative torque for the other leg moving from 6 o'clock to 12 o'clock.
http://groups.google.com/group/wattage/
But I have to say, this is hardly cake stop conversation for most cyclists.