Tyre life and choices.

DavidTQ

OK im starting to get a fair few punctures and I dont know if its the season, or the tyres I have on the bike causing the problem. The tyres are kenda kontenders, 700x26, Which I assume are value end tyres.

The tyres have done over 2000 miles and are well cut up. I dont know if 2000 miles is a reasonable life span for a tyre or if I should have thousands more miles out of them and its just the season? I also dont know if this range is particularly bad for picking up punctures, I went months without getting them and then I would guess around the 1500 mile mark started getting more and more frequent punctures.

Im thinking if the tyres are past their prime Im quite likely to look for a 700x23 to see if it makes me a bit quicker, dont think I need a bullet proof heavy weight tyre just something that will give me similiar puncture resistance to what the current tyres had for the first 1500 miles.

So has anyone had these tyres and compared them to other higher priced tyres out there? Any comments on tyre life span in general? Is there much noticeable difference between 26 and 23 tyre especially a budget 26 and a decent end 23?

SPOODZILLA

I gave up on my 700x26 kontenders quite quickly - i'd say no more than 1000 miles and I was getting punctures every time I went out. commute is riddled with glass and grit.

Just bought some rubinos, £16 for 2 tyres and 2 innertubes from wiggle. Only done 300 miles, but not had a puncture yet, which is good start. They dont seem to cut up like the kendas, which were covered in nicks and slices. Went for 700x25, available in 23s. If I can get 2000 miles out them I'll be happy enough. i've read that conti GP 4 seasons last about 4000 miles, cost about £26 a tyre.

always_tyred

You might want to try switching front and rears. The rears wear much more and are more puncture prone because they bear more weight, so switching tyres can get more life out of a set.

However, the flip side is that you are best getting a flat on the rear from a safety perspective. Would be interested to know what others' take was on that suggestion.

My other suggestion would be to ensure you have enough pressure. It can be counter intuitive, but most of the tyre casing materials used (although for the Kenda's who knows) are stronger in tension, meaning that they perform best, in this context, at higher pressures.

The trade off is loss of grip on slippery winter roads.

And yes, Conti seem to have a good range just now. the Ultra-gators (folables, but a couple down from the 4 seasons, so a bit less grippy) are only about £16-£18, which is a bit easier to swallow!

How many miles does anyone else get out of a set of tyres? I've never managed 4000 I don't think.

DavidTQ

Always Tyred wrote:

You might want to try switching front and rears. The rears wear much more and are more puncture prone because they bear more weight, so switching tyres can get more life out of a set.

However, the flip side is that you are best getting a flat on the rear from a safety perspective. Would be interested to know what others' take was on that suggestion.

My other suggestion would be to ensure you have enough pressure. It can be counter intuitive, but most of the tyre casing materials used (although for the Kenda's who knows) are stronger in tension, meaning that they perform best, in this context, at higher pressures.

The trade off is loss of grip on slippery winter roads.

And yes, Conti seem to have a good range just now. the Ultra-gators (folables, but a couple down from the 4 seasons, so a bit less grippy) are only about £16-£18, which is a bit easier to swallow!

How many miles does anyone else get out of a set of tyres? I've never managed 4000 I don't think.

Dont think pressure is an issue run 125 at the rear and 115ish at the front, Ive had plenty of punctures both ends although noticeably more on the rear, I havent as yet had it come close to going all pear shaped as a result of a puncture either end although would agree instinct tells me Id rather a rear puncture to a front...

Not too worried about tyre pricing, compared to my old hobby of rallying where I brought 4 new expensive motorsport tyres every 100 or so miles cycle tyres seem cheap in comparison

If 4000 miles seems to be a ceiling of life expectancy on a road bikes tyres then 2000 miles for a cheap pair might not be unreasonable to blame tyre mileage for excessive numbers of punctures. Looking at it I think there maybe a good 2mm less thickness of rubber on the rear tyre than the front that might well be making a difference, the tyre has an almost square profile ont he rear and far more rounded at the front, think its worn the centre of the tyre substantially...

CheapSkate

Always Tyred wrote:

However, the flip side is that you are best getting a flat on the rear from a safety perspective. Would be interested to know what others' take was on that suggestion.

From a handling at speed perspective, I understand your point entirely.

From a being idle and I'm only commuting anyway not racing perspective, I much prefer to get a flat in the front, as I can gently roll the straight line parts of the last mile to work or the last mile home on that and expect to get away with it in a way that I can't if the rear goes.