Re-rimming, how hard can it be, honestly..

Haynes
Haynes Posts: 670
edited February 2008 in Workshop
How hard is it to replace the rim on a front wheel - is it do able? I would get the lbs to do it but ive heard their wheel building isnt the greatest.

But, i do need it to be strong and reliable for my winter fixed commute.

Can you get away with sticking it in an upside down frame for truing?

Is the sequence critical?

Is it worth having a go, and if it all goes wrong strip it down and get it done properly?

I vaguely remember something about taping the new rim side by side, lined up with valve hole. Sounds easy enough to then transfer spokes from one to the other?

Is there potential for catastrophic failure, can it go that wrong?

I dont imagine getting it latterally true a real problem, but is it not so straightforward to get it completely round?

I had a look at sheldon brown but all got a bit complicated as it went through buidling a rear wheel from scratch.
<hr><font>The trick is not MINDING that it hurts.</font>

Comments

  • Not hard at All

    All you need is a spoke tension gauge a dishing tool and a wheel truing stand.

    Easier find a shop with a good wheelbuilder and get them to do it. ASk if they are DT Swiss Qualified. If so you have found someone proud of their work.
  • As long as you can get the same rim,then its not too difficult.

    I've done it the way you described, and it does get a bit fiddly,but you learn how to true wheels.I'm not saying my wheels are as good as those from a good wheelbuilder, but they are certainly as good as or better than some I've had built by local bike shops.

    Try it , the worst that can happen is that you have to take it to the lbs to finish off.

    You do need to read any wheelbuiding stuff you can find, and be a bit sensible-keeping spoke tensions reasonably even, but its not too hard to end up with a perfectly serviceable wheel.

    Rich.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    start of with the great artical on Sheldon Browns webby. linky below.

    it is not really re rimming, it is a wheel unbuild and a rebuild. but taping the new rim to the old and swapping the spokes over to the same hole on the new rim is easy enough. (as long as the new rim is exactly the same as the old one. use a different rim and the chances are that you will need different length spokes.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • dennisn
    dennisn Posts: 10,601
    While I'm not saying it can't be done using an old fork for a truing stand there is a lot
    to be said for using the proper tools along with a good manual on the subject.
    Front wheels are a bit easier because all the spokes are the same length and
    generally will have pretty much to same tension. Lacing is pretty much the same as the
    rear wheel but the sequence of truing is slighty different as the rear requires a bit more work due to uneven spoke lengths and uneven spoke tension. Get the right tools if at
    all possible. In the end you will save yourself money and the hassle of taking wheels to
    the shop for work.

    Dennis Noward
  • geoff_ss
    geoff_ss Posts: 1,201
    It's very easy. I've replaced rims by taping the new rim alongside the old one and swapping the spokes over. Provided the new rim needs the same length spokes it's straightforward and a lot quicker than stripping and re-lacing. Read up on trueing and how to get the wheel round (that's the important bit), take your time and you'll end up with a useable wheel. Fronts are less of a problem anyway and don't suffer the same stresses as rears.

    I built my first wheels using the bike as wheel building jig and using my thumb to check how true/round it was. I still check rear wheel dishing by dropping the wheel into the frame. The only essential tool for wheel building is a spoke key - I've used neither a spoke tension gauge nor a dishing tool though I do have a cheap wheel building jig which works perfectly adequately.

    I've built wheels for solos, tandems and tricycles over the years and they usually survive OK.

    Geoff
    Old cyclists never die; they just fit smaller chainrings ... and pedal faster
  • redvee
    redvee Posts: 11,922
    I first learned the art of wheelbuilding from an article in C+ many moons ago. It helped me respoke a pair of wheels over a weekend, not 100% true but within 0.5mm but I was pleased with the result for a 1st attempt.
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • trekvet
    trekvet Posts: 223
    Sit down in good light to change the rim over. When you are free of slack spokes put the wheel in the frame. Now put the bike upside down on the dinning room table, adjust the brake closer, pull up a chair and you`ll have it done in no time.
    The Wife complained for months about the empty pot of bike oil on the hall stand; so I replaced it with a full one.
  • meagain
    meagain Posts: 2,331
    "It's very easy. I've replaced rims by taping the new rim alongside the old one and swapping the spokes over. "

    Just so. Just be sure that the left/right hole off-set copies the old one.Can get away with just one spoke at a time if leave loose until all transferred. Easy intro to wheel BUILDING! As to trueing, patience is the key!
    d.j.
    "Cancel my subscription to the resurrection."
  • redvee
    redvee Posts: 11,922
    I saw a wheel dished nearly perfectly by eye, the bloke justsat there and twiddled the spokes and span the wheel occaissonly, didn't believe it till I saw the results.
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • bhm100
    bhm100 Posts: 102
    Hi,
    As everyone says, it's straightforward enough. It sounds like you've not approached something like this before, so firstly get a couple of articles printed out so you can have them alongside while you're working.

    Then draw/photograph the old wheel and how the spokes are sequenced at the rim & hub. Note that some rims have the eyelet holes off-set slightly from the central axis, and angled in line with the spoke. Of course the rim will still work if you get this wrong, but the spokes will have a slight bending stress on them.

    So look closely, make a few notes/sketches and don't rely on just taping the rim alongside.

    Having said all that, I'm sure you could do it. I'm no expert but have built quite a few using nothing more than a spoke key and my bike frame. In fact I reckon you should build and dish the wheel in the frame it's to be used in. If you leave the brake calipers on and use them for truing, I can't see any practical difference between using a proper jig and the frame.
  • dennisn
    dennisn Posts: 10,601
    make sure you get the spoke crossings right with respect to which one crosses over and which one crosses under.

    Dennios Noward
  • Nuggs
    Nuggs Posts: 1,804
    dennisn wrote:
    make sure you get the spoke crossings right with respect to which one crosses over and which one crosses under.

    Dennios Noward
    I wouldn't take advice from a man that can't spell his own name :D:wink:
  • geocycle
    geocycle Posts: 202
    Is it worth reusing the old spokes or should you always go for new?
  • redvee
    redvee Posts: 11,922
    geocycle wrote:
    Is it worth reusing the old spokes or should you always go for new?

    Using new spokes and you'll be getting into the realms of a rebuild. All depends on the age of the spokes, if as old as the rider then new.
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • Re-rimming? fnaar fnaar :wink: