Alfine commuter bikes

MichaelW

My old faithful is due for retirement and I need something that can handle 15miles/day in all weather with some hills and much less maintenance than my current 3x7 derailluer setup.
The Shimano Alfine 8spd hub gear looks ideal, esp with hydraulic brakes. Is anyone riding an Alfine equipped bike?
Which bike and how do you rate it.
Should I go for chain tension by eccentric bottom bracket or horizontal dropouts. I dont want to use the Alfine chain tensioner device, just more pulleys and springs.
Do the eccentric BB use modern units like Bushnell or crude ones with set-screws.

My search of the marketplace had shown the following model (have I missed any?):

Cannondale Bad Boy 8 Ultra
Mongoose Sabrosa Ocho
Marin San Anselmo (Alfine chain tenser required)
Charge Mixer
Brodie Ocho
Giant CRX City
Maxx.de Crossmax
Rocky Mountain Metropolitan
Dawes Genevre

Some of the bikes eg Charge Mixer seem to be lacking rear rack threaded eyelets, it is hard to tell from pics.

FORUM EXPERT

not ridden any of your list but have had the pleasure of Trek's Soho 4 Shifts well is a Rapid Rise system (Alfine) which takes a little getting used to. System shifts well and does not feel to heavy unlike the old Nexus.

Find a dealer who allows test rides and go for a spin. Our opinions mean nothing if you disagree after purchase without riding it first

amircp

One you've missed is the Bianchi Camaleonte Alfine (see e.g. Evans)

I also am considering this type of bike but am waiting to see whether we will get a cycle to work scheme (one year so far!).

alfablue

I like the Charge mixer with its steel frame, good price too.

maveco

Is anyone riding an Alfine equipped bike?
Which bike and how do you rate it.

I have just bought a Cannondale Bad Boy 8 and I really love the Alfine gears, easy to clean and really simple. Mind you I am relatively new to cycling. I just wanted a really good Hybrid bike with a stripped down simple look, all black no fuss.

Michael S. Roper

Hi. I bought a Cannondale Bad Boy 8 just before Christmas. So far, mixed reactions. The gears are really easy to use, but getting the wheel off in the event of a puncture is a pig - it is exceptionally difficult to line up all the bits in one hand while holding the (heavy) wheel in the other. I tried it in the workshop and even after half a dozen attemtps, it took me quite a while to put it back together again. Goodness knows how I'll do it when I have a flat in the damp and dark of the winter outdoors.... . This is an issue that the mag. tests of Alfine should pick up on; I suspect most of the testers don't even try to remove the rear wheel!

On the plus side, I do most of my riding on dirt tracks, and the internal hub certainly keeps the transmission cleaner than a deralleur. Likewise, the discs are a big improvement on the V-brakes I've previously used, which tore up the rims after a couple of years. The hydraulics are lovely and smooth (though see below).

The Cannondale is a funny beast; it is not really an all-round machine, and is better suited to road than trail despite its all-weather brakes and transmission. The ride position is 'aggressive' to say the least - so expect to be rather stretched out; it is not suited to cruising. The frame itself is wonderfully stiff and stable; you really can throw it round in a way that wasn't possible with my old steel Trek.

At the same time, it feels a bit like driving a 4x4, or balancing an upside-down broomstick in the palm of your hand. The bottom bracket is very high indeed - probably because Cannondale use the same geometry for 700c wheels as for the 26" versions. This means that you command a great view, but that the ground is a long way beneath you as you ride, and it isn't easy to plant feet squarely on the ground when dismounting.

My biggest gripe is the lack of braze-ons and the inflexibility as regards tyre choice. It is set up with eyelets for mudguards, but if you use more than a 28 tyre, you'll find the clearances are tight. I've put 32mm Conti Contacts (great tyres!) on mine, with ESGE mudguards, but this involved ridiculous tweaks like low-profile bolt heads to get the necessary clearance. And by the way, you'll want that bigger air pocket, because the rims, though they look cool, are deep section, rather harsh over rough surfaces, and weigh a hefty 674 grams each. 37mm tyres would be ideal, but they won't fit.

Even worse, you can't put a proper rack on the bike as it lacks eyelets on the top of the rear stays. I've used the mudguard bridge to secure one, but this is far from ideal and not that rigid a mounting spot.

I suspect that the 'dale lacks eyelets because the emphasis is on style, and on creating a minimal look. To be honest, the looks are the best thing about this bike. Even with guards and rack it really is a stunner.

Would I buy another one? Probably not. The Trek Soho is 150 cheaper, and probably the more versatile machine, better suited to off-road, and more serviceable, as its discs are cable operated rather than hydraulic. The Trek also has a more upright position, and all the necessary eyelets.... but not the looks. [later addition: the 2008 version of the Trek has problems too. It has a fitting for a prop stand across the rear chainstays which also makes it just about impossible to fit decent tyres and a mudguard...]

The Bad Boy errs on the side of style over functionality.

alfablue

Good review Michael, rather sad though, this machine sounds like it is failing to live up to its promise, it sounds like it is having an identity crisis!

I wonder if the Alfine wheel removal is as tricky with all such equipped bikes, or if there are diffrences that might improve this. I guess if it was mine I would be tempted to fit an ultra puncture-proof tyre, like a Schwalbe Marathon Plus or Marathon Ultra, but it may not even have clearance for these. Shame!

amircp

Michael - is it the alfine hub on its own that makes it difficult to remove the back wheel or the combination with the disk brakes?

Nice review.

Michael S. Roper

Thanks for the responses. As for the hub, I suspect it would be the same on any Alfine set-up: the disc side of it is not a problem, it is the connectors between the gear cable and the actual hub. Three pieces have to be aligned and then locked together, but the process is not at all intuitive! Schwalbes might help cut down the likelihood of a flat - good point - though I like the supple ride feel of the Contis.

A final point, you do feel the meshing of all those cogs as you ride, especially in 1st, but I've been impressed by how efficient the transmission feels for an internal gear hub. You wouldn't want to thrash it, the hub encourages a more sedate approach.

TractionControl

Apparently it's easier to remove wheels with SRAM hub gears even though you still need to carry a spanner, although in theory many punctures should be fixable without removing the rear wheel unless the inner tube's totally ruined.

Has anyone compared the Alfine hub to the SRAM S7 or i-motion 9? The Hubstripping test I've seen doesn't mention what these two hubs are like to use on a day-to-day basis. (The S7 is supposedly an excellent hub if you don't mind having an external clickbox.)

headcoat

Can anyone update this thread? I am looking for a hybrid bike with 7/8 speed hub gears, but before I jump in I would like to know all the ones available in the UK.
I liked the look of the Mongoose Sabrosa Ocho, but can't find it in the UK.

thanks

lardboy

Have a look at the Cotic Roadrat, and On-One Pompetamine. Both available as flat or drop barred options with disc brakes. Mudguard and rack mounting also available.

If you search on this site for Alfine, you'll get some opinions.

davis

I built a Cotic Roadrat with an 8-speed Alfine as a low maintenance ride for my father, and I'm quietly impressed with the gears. It doesn't provide the range of a derailleur setup, but I like:

There's no "slack" take-up; as soon as you pedal, it's transferred into motion. You can change pretty much whenever you want (i.e. when stopped). The big fat chain should last for ever, as should the Surly stainless steel chainring It's quiet.

Things I don't much like:

It's a bit heavy right at the back. It doesn't feel as efficient as a derailleur drivetrain. There's a poxy 15mm nut on the rear axle. I think it's a "track" standard, but it's not the most common spanner size

I like it enough to consider building myself one: drops, Alfine, and discs, probably on another Roadrat frame 'cos I just like the slightly "Engineery" feel to the bike.
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g00se

Kona Dr Fine and Dr Good.

http://www.konaworld.com/bike.cfm?content=dr_fine

http://www.konaworld.com/bike.cfm?content=dr_good

Not sure about the rear brake on the Dr Good for the UK though.

Radioactiveman

The factory built cotic roadrat alfine builds look nice


http://www.cotic.co.uk/product/bikes/roadrat/alfine/

Headhuunter

Sorry to derail this thread but I can't help but notice that Michael S Roper has been on Bike Radar since Oct 2004 and has only made 6 posts - 2 of which are on this thread! That has to be some kind of record... That's a post per year!

shouldbeinbed

amircp wrote:

Michael - is it the alfine hub on its own that makes it difficult to remove the back wheel or the combination with the disk brakes?

Nice review.

got a cannondale street ultra and had a look at a few other Alfines. It is the hub alone that is faffy. I asked in workshop a while back and apparently its simple enough to hook out the cable end nut and bobs yer proverbial.

Yeah right, never manged it yet!

However its dead easy to pop the tyre off on the non chain side, hook out the tube then loosen off the nuts & lift the rim just enough to slip the defunt tube out through the dropouts and repair/replace it. I can swap a tube in a couple of minutes and a tyre too in 5.

Anonymous

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Michael S. Roper

Hi. Michael S. Roper here, just adding my annual post... On the hub, yes, it is the gears, not the disc that makes wheel removal a flaff, but the disc adds to the weight of the rear end, and this in turn adds to the flaff factor. Yes, you can manage most puncture repairs without taking out the wheel, and I like shouldbeinbed's idea of sneaking a new tube out through the non-drive side of the axle/dropouts.

I investigated the Roadrat before buying the C'dale. It certainly looks fantastic; funky and racy, partly because it has a low front end (head tube on the large is only 15cm). For the more youthful and flexible among us that might be fine, but if you already have a road bike or two for fast work, or you want to command a better view of the road, you'll need a pretty long steerer tube and plenty of spacers to jack up the front end. Alternatively/additionally you could fit riser bars.

Now for an update on the Badboy, three years down the line... In the end, I dealt with its off-road foibles by swapping the very heavy Rigida rims for 26" Mavics, and fitting Schwalbe's excellent (and light) Marathon Supremes in 2.0. This gives me a bigger air pocket plus the mudguard clearance, on a wheel package is that is significantly lighter overall, and handles rough stuff much better. Alfine gears have been trouble-free though they don't change quite as quickly as they did. Eventually the hub will need new oil - Shimano has an oil bath system for this but as yet I haven't, er, as it were, 'taken the plunge'.... Juicy 3 hydraulic brakes have needed no adjustment at all and have been excellent, very powerful and progressive, and miles better than V-brakes. The Nexus chain didn’t last long and was prone to stretch. I’ve had much longer life from the Sram nickel-plated replacement.

C'dales eccentric bottom bracket is a pain, though on paper the design looks clever. I'm on my second shell, as they have a tendency to work loose, exacerbating the chain slack issue. In order to remove the slack you need to loosen the BB shell, a procedure which involves a tiny circlip which eventually breaks, leaving the BB shell stuck in the frame.... Also the internal cable runs, though they make for a clean look, let water into the bottom bracket well, where it sloshes about and will eventually rust the cable housings.

If I were buying an Alfine hub bike now, I’d take a careful look at the eccentric set-up before committing. I’d also consider the belt drive option. Trek is offering belt drive on the Soho ( http://extremesports.ltd.uk/mtb/product233-3607.htm), but I’d check that the flaws in earlier Soho models have been sorted out (see my review above). Finally, what about Alfine in 11 speed? Sounds good! http://travellingtwo.com/3856

I wouldn’t go for the 2010 Badboy. The cables at least are now external, but the lefty fork is little more than a gimmick and the whole package at £1150 (on discount for £1,000 at Evans cycles) is £450 over what I paid in ‘08. As for alternatives, I quite fancy the Brodie Ocho on paper, http://www.brodiebikes.com/2010/bikes/ocho.php, but I dont know if it is available in the UK.... The Merida had a pretty average review in C+, I seem to recall, but Peter Kraus’ pic looks cool.

Well, that's me done on the Bikeradar site 'til next year, apparently!

asprilla

Well, I've just bitten the bullet and placed an order for a Civia Bryant Alfine. It's a bit of a risk since there aren't may reviews about, but most of the forum feedback is excellent.

Only thing I might look at is replacing the BB5s with BB7s, but since I've got no experiance with disc brakes I don't know how 'bad' the BB5s are. Should be here by mid October, in time to be my winter commuter.

Not shown in all the images, but does include full guards.

It's going to be for me in the winter and Mrs A in the summer.

Wrath Rob

Asprilla wrote:

Well, I've just bitten the bullet and placed an order for a Civia Bryant Alfine. It's a bit of a risk since there aren't may reviews about, but most of the forum feedback is excellent.

I'm liking that. Where did you source that from or are you bringing one over from the states yourself?

asprilla

I'm importing it from the states from bike.com. I spoke to Civia and they recommended Speedgoat, but they won't let you pre-order. Given the last batch sold out on presales I wanted to make sure I had an order in.

I can't guarantee I'll get one from the next batch, but at least I've place it.

Wrath Rob

Nice. Will be looking forwards to seeing at the Morpeth at some point

essex-commuter

Do all belt drive frames have a break / gap (not sure what it should be called) in them to allow for changing the belt?

asprilla

essex-commuter wrote:

Do all belt drive frames have a break / gap (not sure what it should be called) in them to allow for changing the belt?

Yeah, the belts are a solid loop with no option to break and reconnect. If the belt doesn't open then the frame has to.

Unless the driven sprocket (or is it a pulley with a belt?) was outside the chainstay.

si_progressivebikes

Just to let you all know i am hoping to bring the Brodie Ocho in to the UK for 2011. Details are vague at the moment but i should have full specs and prices soon.

Some info can be seen here http://www.brodiebikes.com/blog/?p=703#more-703

bit of market research, but what would you think is a fair price for the Alfined Ocho?

Thanks

Si @ progressive Bikes the UK's Brodie distributor!

snailracer

Asprilla wrote:

essex-commuter wrote:

Do all belt drive frames have a break / gap (not sure what it should be called) in them to allow for changing the belt?

Yeah, the belts are a solid loop with no option to break and reconnect. If the belt doesn't open then the frame has to.

Unless the driven sprocket (or is it a pulley with a belt?) was outside the chainstay.

Some belt drive frames do not have a drive-side rear triangle.

I have seen one frame which has no rear triangle at all, the rear wheel was supported by a monstrous chaincase through which the chain or belt could run.

If the driven sprocket was outside the drive-side rear triangle, it would result in heel strike. Narrowing the rear hub to avoid this would result in a weak wheel.

lardboy

si_progressivebikes wrote:

Just to let you all know i am hoping to bring the Brodie Ocho in to the UK for 2011. Details are vague at the moment but i should have full specs and prices soon.

Some info can be seen here http://www.brodiebikes.com/blog/?p=703#more-703

bit of market research, but what would you think is a fair price for the Alfined Ocho?

Thanks

Si @ progressive Bikes the UK's Brodie distributor!

You need to compare like with like. Assuming it's not a super-duper frame, and has comparable equipment to the Pompetamine and the Sideways Alfrat, then £600-800 for a flat bar wouldn't be unreasonable. If you can get a Versa'd up drop version, then £800-1,000 is the magic numbers.