Icy\slippery roads - techniques to handle them\stay upright
daniel_b
Posts: 11,974
Hello all,
did our biggest ride so far on Sunday, 38 miles, probably insubstantial to most of you!
There were some big hills, and as both of our bikes are only doubles, 2 of these were rather hard work.
On the first hill, I'm pretty sure it was ice, but I got up out of the saddle, and my rear wheel spun for 2 revolutions of the pedal, causing me to lose momentum, but I sat down immediately, and managed to keep going.
No way to avoid this I guess other than to stay in the saddle?
Tyres are 23c Michelins.
Coming down a hill, and breaking for a bend, had a little bit of a lock up, which was pretty scary, probably doing about 20mph or so, just locked up for a few feet, and then came back in line, and wasn't even braking hard.
Coming from a MTB only background, I am used to being able to brake as hard as I want, and if it does lock up I am always able to control it with comparitive ease - I have a good feel for the bikes balance underneath me.
It felt somehow less likely that I would be able to get it back had it stepped out further - I was on the hoods at the time.
Any tips on this, or handling a skid on a skinny tyred roadie?
Cheers
Dan
did our biggest ride so far on Sunday, 38 miles, probably insubstantial to most of you!
There were some big hills, and as both of our bikes are only doubles, 2 of these were rather hard work.
On the first hill, I'm pretty sure it was ice, but I got up out of the saddle, and my rear wheel spun for 2 revolutions of the pedal, causing me to lose momentum, but I sat down immediately, and managed to keep going.
No way to avoid this I guess other than to stay in the saddle?
Tyres are 23c Michelins.
Coming down a hill, and breaking for a bend, had a little bit of a lock up, which was pretty scary, probably doing about 20mph or so, just locked up for a few feet, and then came back in line, and wasn't even braking hard.
Coming from a MTB only background, I am used to being able to brake as hard as I want, and if it does lock up I am always able to control it with comparitive ease - I have a good feel for the bikes balance underneath me.
It felt somehow less likely that I would be able to get it back had it stepped out further - I was on the hoods at the time.
Any tips on this, or handling a skid on a skinny tyred roadie?
Cheers
Dan
Felt F70 05 (Turbo)
Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
Scott CR1 SL 12
Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
Scott Foil 18
Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
Scott CR1 SL 12
Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
Scott Foil 18
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Comments
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Daniel B wrote:Hello all,
did our biggest ride so far on Sunday, 38 miles, probably insubstantial to most of you!
There were some big hills, and as both of our bikes are only doubles, 2 of these were rather hard work.
On the first hill, I'm pretty sure it was ice, but I got up out of the saddle, and my rear wheel spun for 2 revolutions of the pedal, causing me to lose momentum, but I sat down immediately, and managed to keep going.
No way to avoid this I guess other than to stay in the saddle?
Tyres are 23c Michelins.
Coming down a hill, and breaking for a bend, had a little bit of a lock up, which was pretty scary, probably doing about 20mph or so, just locked up for a few feet, and then came back in line, and wasn't even braking hard.
Coming from a MTB only background, I am used to being able to brake as hard as I want, and if it does lock up I am always able to control it with comparitive ease - I have a good feel for the bikes balance underneath me.
It felt somehow less likely that I would be able to get it back had it stepped out further - I was on the hoods at the time.
Any tips on this, or handling a skid on a skinny tyred roadie?
Cheers
Dan
First of all I suspect the first skid when climbing was probably just a wet road with maybe a touch of ice. This can cause you to slip especially when out of saddle as you weight is forward on the bike and not over rear wheel. You just need to get the balance right to keep some weight over rear wheel, if it is a smooth wet road, use lower gear and sit down.
On the second skid you experienced it wounds as if you used too much back brake as this will cause th erear to lock so its better to use a bit of both brakes. Also it is noit wise to break on the bend as you will go sideways if you get it wrong its better to pick your line and break before the bend and go through smoothly.
When it is cold and also when wet it is much safer to corner slower than usual as you never know!!
Finally, if you really hit a big patch of black ice, there is nothing at all you can do, and if possible do not touch the brakes or your off!!! I would rather crash into a grass bank than come off on ice 8)0 -
There's no real difference between fat and skinny tyres on tarmac. Icy roads are a hazard for all two wheelers. That's why I always fitted a sidecar to my motorcycles in Winter when that was my only means of transport and used a trike for commuting when I started pedal cycling. The only recommendation I can offer is to avoid braking on the slippy bits.
I was out this morning and several lanes were a bit frosty in the shade though it was gloriously sunny. I actually walked down part of a hill when I started to slide a bit. It's a 20% hair-pinned hill (though a good bit steeper on the inside of the bends) that's been used for the National Hill climb champs in the past that leads up to Riber Castle near Matlock. I decided I was too old to break a leg this early in the year Otherwise it was a great hilly ride.
GeoffOld cyclists never die; they just fit smaller chainrings ... and pedal faster0 -
When it's frosty/icy I avoid using the front brake at all unless absolutely necessary.............whereas a rear wheel skid is controllable, a front wheel skid involves picking gravel out of your knee in most instances.0
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Thankyou all,
good words of advice I will take on board
Hopefully not the 'brace for impact' one though!
The lock up was when in a straight line, and I lifted off as soon as it went, but hadn't anticpated it, where as on my MTB I can always feel when it is about to lock up.
Cheers
DanFelt F70 05 (Turbo)
Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
Scott CR1 SL 12
Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
Scott Foil 180 -
Best advice generally (wet, icy or dry) is to do your beaking 'in a straight line' ... shouldn't touch your brakes mid corner
The same advice applies to racing cars or motorbikes for that matter 8) (You'll also go more quickly too)
It's great to be .....0