Swapping handlebars - is it worth it?

mulletd

I have a Giant FCR2 flat-barred road bike that I bought on a cycle to work scheme last year.

I’m thinking of swapping the flat bars for a set of drop handled ones for increased comfort over long distances as I intend to start using it for a daily commute to work (about 17 miles each way).

Is it worth the cost or would it be more cost effective to buy another bike with drop-handles on this years cycle to work scheme? The FCR retails at £499 this year but I only paid £320.

If it is worth it, how should go about the swap and what would I need to buy? My bike currently has Shimano 440 Rapidfire Plus 27 speed shifters, Shimano 440 front mech, Shimano Tiagra rear mech, and Tektro 521 Dual pivot long reach brakes.

TIA

synchronicity

You only need the handlebar, shifters and bar tape... A new tiagra mech shouldn't cost too much (listed here on bikeradar for 150£ but I'm sure you could find them cheaper than that) and a decent alloy handlebar is what, only slightly more that 20 quid I'd imagine?

Why buy a whole bike when you may not need to :?:

Edit: sjs cycles has them for 109 pound.
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/src/00018/pr ... -13099.htm

Mikey1280

CRC have the tiagra 9spd triple shifters for £90 inc delivery

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=22652

JWSurrey

Tinkering with parts and learning how to put it all together is part of the fun.
To get the correct bar width, check a few web pages - I think it's essentially the distance between your shoulder blades.
Bear in mind that you may need to change the stem, as the reach will be different - You'll be that much further forward when you're resting on the hoods.

You may also require new cable outers and inners due to the different lengths involved.

My favourite bars are ITM Marathon bars - I've only ever seen them sold through Ribble Cycles online. They have a swept-back top, which provides for more hand positions than most, though you may find it a bit restrictive on the drops.

Grease and threadlock spring to mind. I also use a torque wrench, but it's not essential.

John C.

Be prepared for a vast amount of reduced braking. Deep drop brakes work fine with flat bars but are no where near as good as shallow drop brakes. You will be replacing the most expensive components on the bike with this conversion, so why not go for a more sporty new drop bar bike. The conversion is going to cost you the best part of 150 pounds, that will go a long way towards a new bike and we can never have too many bikes . Please don't get me wrong I love working on bikes and would encourage every one to do so, but in this instance I would go for another bike.

synchronicity

JWSurrey wrote:

You may also require new cable outers and inners due to the different lengths involved.

Most aftermarket shiftlever sets include all new cables + housing don't they?

mulletd

Thanks for your comments.

As a result, I have managed to convince the wife that it would make more sense financially if I were to get a new bike and then she could use mine.

Sorted!

SPOODZILLA

I have an FCR 3 which i use for a 28 mile daily commute. I was finding the ride uncomfortable until I tinkered with the contact parts. After adjusting the seat angle slightly, turning the flatbars round a bit and adjusting the angle of the bar ends I've found the bike a much more comfortable ride. I've resisted drop bars because I prefer the upright riding position when tackling city centre traffic.