Is my wheel is straight and other stupid questions....
steerpike
Posts: 424
Hi - newcomer to MTB'ing with a new MTB. Some fairly basic questions I need answering but here goes....
1. When I put the front wheel on, the front hydraulic disc slots into its groove and I tighten the nut on one side and then close the lever on the other - just like the guy showed me. But....when I spin it it seems to wobble ever so slightly (though this maybe just the tread on the tyre) and also rub very very slightly when the disc rubs against the grooves (sorry - dont know the proper terms!) Any tips?
2. What kind of oil should I use for the forks and other moving parts and how often should I use?
3. How can I tell when the tyre presures are right when using only a handpump?. They seem a bit squashy to me.
Thanks!
1. When I put the front wheel on, the front hydraulic disc slots into its groove and I tighten the nut on one side and then close the lever on the other - just like the guy showed me. But....when I spin it it seems to wobble ever so slightly (though this maybe just the tread on the tyre) and also rub very very slightly when the disc rubs against the grooves (sorry - dont know the proper terms!) Any tips?
2. What kind of oil should I use for the forks and other moving parts and how often should I use?
3. How can I tell when the tyre presures are right when using only a handpump?. They seem a bit squashy to me.
Thanks!
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Comments
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1. Your wheel could be out of true (which basically means its a little wonky!), its ok if its only 1or 2 mm out of true, if not you can either true it yourself or get the shop to do it (If your bike is fairly new I guess they would do it for free.
In most cases when replacing the wheel with disc brakes it will rub anyway, this can be fixed by loosening slightly the bolts that attach the main body of the brake(caliper) to the frame/fork and moving the capliper until you cant hear it rubbing then re tightening it again (it takes some practise but once you've got the knack it takes no time )
2. I'd suggest a dedicated chain lube, such as finish line (for wet conditions) in the winter and white lightening (for dry) in the summer. I generally just lube chain, cassette, spring in rear mech and cables when they are mucky.IIRC most modern forks don't need oiling.
3. Get a pump with a pressure gauge such as this:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.a ... th%20Gauge
Run around 45psi for harder packed surfaces and around 35-40 psi for situations when you need more grip. (see your tyre's side wall for pressure recommendations.0 -
Check out the Park Tools web site, and in particular the Repair Help section, it's the bible of bike reapir information and will explain all about wheels being out of true. Whilst I wouldn't suggest that you try re-truing the wheel yourself, i'ts useful to know the ins and outs of the process! Park also have a section on Brakes which includes sections on aligning hudraulic disc brakes.
The Tech Links thread in the BikeRadar Workshop & Tech forum also contains a wealth of information on bikes which is well worth a browse.
Also read up on bikes and biking on Sheldon Brown0