Fatty-proof town bike
dan..
Posts: 16
Hi all, I'm looking at dropping some cash on a new bike, but I know very little about bikes, and not really sure where to look or what to look for, so I hope someone can point me in the right direction.
I'm a rather large chap (6'5" and about 20st), and am slowly destroying the Claud Butler hybrid the local bike shop sold me last year. I use it to get to and from work, and for general exercise in an attempt to lose a bit of weight. However, I'm not particularly chuffed with it.
I've managed to snap half a dozen spokes, knackered the rear hub (I've since had the rear wheel rebuilt with stronger spokes), and I think I've done something nasty to the rear derailleur.
It's also got front suspension, which I wasn't keen on, but the bike shop convinced me to get anyway (It's too squishy for me, so I keep the preload setting thing as tight as it'll go, so it's doing very little).
And v-brakes, which have nearly sent me upside-down into a bush on a couple of occasions when they get wet (I think that's due to the, uh, 'extra momentum'
). My girlfriend's significantly smaller (and cheaper) Dawes 301 hybrid feels much more stable and fun to ride.
So I'm thinking it's time to cut my losses, chuck it on ebay and get something else, preferably with disc brakes and no front suspension.
I quite like the look of this:
Kona Dew Deluxe: http://www.konabikes.co.uk/2008/dew/dew-deluxe.php
But I'm not sure if it's going to stand up to the abuse..
Any recommendations?
I'm a rather large chap (6'5" and about 20st), and am slowly destroying the Claud Butler hybrid the local bike shop sold me last year. I use it to get to and from work, and for general exercise in an attempt to lose a bit of weight. However, I'm not particularly chuffed with it.
I've managed to snap half a dozen spokes, knackered the rear hub (I've since had the rear wheel rebuilt with stronger spokes), and I think I've done something nasty to the rear derailleur.
It's also got front suspension, which I wasn't keen on, but the bike shop convinced me to get anyway (It's too squishy for me, so I keep the preload setting thing as tight as it'll go, so it's doing very little).
And v-brakes, which have nearly sent me upside-down into a bush on a couple of occasions when they get wet (I think that's due to the, uh, 'extra momentum'
). My girlfriend's significantly smaller (and cheaper) Dawes 301 hybrid feels much more stable and fun to ride.So I'm thinking it's time to cut my losses, chuck it on ebay and get something else, preferably with disc brakes and no front suspension.
I quite like the look of this:
Kona Dew Deluxe: http://www.konabikes.co.uk/2008/dew/dew-deluxe.php
But I'm not sure if it's going to stand up to the abuse..
Any recommendations?
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Comments
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http://www.ukbikesdepot.com/products.php?plid=m1b0s18p102
Have a good look at this one. The Marin Larkspur. Very light and simple bike (no suspension or anything).Decent frame and everythings sealed for those wet journeys0 -
Thanks for the suggestion!
It does indeed look rather nice. Is there any particular reason you suggest that one?0 -
Also, am I barking up the wrong tree looking for another hybrid?
Should I be looking at something like an MTB that will (I assume) stand up to a bit more abuse?0 -
MTB's will stand up to abuse better than a hyrid of road bike, this is because they are built for abuse.
sounds like you've had a bit of a bad un with your current bike, personally i'd take the forks off and sell on ebay and get some ridgid forks to put on
the v brakes might not be working properly due to setup?
could put magura HS33 hydrolic rim brakes on.
cleaning the rims helps with braking as does changing the pads for harder ones.My signature was stolen by a moose
that will be all
trying to get GT James banned since tuesday0 -
I'd have a look at what Random Vince said, rigid forks - much better for the intended use, and change the pads and levers on your current setup. Look at the Avid speed dial (£10 for both @ CRC) range with adjustable levers, or Shimano do a similar thing called servowave (LXM571) this will allow you to adjust the amount of power when pulling the lever.
Also, there are much better brake blocks out there....
try some Kool stop blocks, I have them fitted to my Kaffenback (Canti brakes) and they are miles better than the previous (original frogleg) pads.
Saying that tho, the Kona Dew is a mighty nice bike!!0 -
I was under the impression that frames for suspension forks are a different shape to accommodate the extra length. It certainly seems that way from looking at pictures.Random Vince wrote:personally i'd take the forks off and sell on ebay and get some ridgid forks to put on
Since I'm pretty tall, my saddle is already rather high.. Am I not going to end up with the front being significantly lower and a slightly awkward riding position?
The v-brakes seem to be set up okay. I had the bike shop give them a once-over a while ago, and after a couple of scares I've been giving them a bit of TLC every few rides. They're alright, but they require a lot of love to keep the stopping power up and they're never great in the wet.
I think the braking problems there are just a combination of the extra weight, riding style and the conditions around here (lots of big puddles when it rains, sometimes floods to ride through).
These http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=1347 ..?ratty2k wrote:Look at the Avid speed dial (£10 for both @ CRC) range with adjustable levers, or Shimano do a similar thing called servowave (LXM571) this will allow you to adjust the amount of power when pulling the lever.
Looks like an interesting idea.. Is a new set of levers and pads really going to make a significant difference, though?
It is, isn't it? I'm kinda loathed to continue throwing money at my current bike, given that it has a couple of things I'm really not happy with and aren't really cheap to fix. Which is why I was looking at that one.ratty2k wrote:Saying that tho, the Kona Dew is a mighty nice bike!!
My only worry with that though, is I'm going to be too heavy for it and flatten it.
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Think about a steel frame. It'll cope with your size better, and hurt less on bumps. I'm a bit of a lump and I commute on a Condor Fratello. I really enjoy mine, and Condor were good people to buy from.0
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the difference between steel and alu only really shows up offroad.
a fork such as the kona project 2 is meant as a replacement for suspension forks, although my personal preference would be for the on-one / planet X offering.
if you want it to take some of teh shock out then you could use a carbon off road ridged fork , but i wouldn't
mountain bike tires offer some suspension properties so you don't really need front or rear sus for on road.My signature was stolen by a moose
that will be all
trying to get GT James banned since tuesday0 -
I have no problems losing the suspension, the preload is set high enough that it doesn't do me much good anyway (apart from making the front lift a bit if I accelerate hard, which still elicits a minor panic).
But isn't putting a rigid fork on it just going to lower the handlebar by a few inches?0 -
dan.. wrote:I have no problems losing the suspension, the preload is set high enough that it doesn't do me much good anyway (apart from making the front lift a bit if I accelerate hard, which still elicits a minor panic).
But isn't putting a rigid fork on it just going to lower the handlebar by a few inches?
Not if you get the right fork which is set up to go on suspension frames. e.g the on-one http://www.on-one-shop.co.uk/acatalog/O ... d_365.html
but to be honest if you have more problems with the current bike then I'd put the cash towards a new one<a>road</a>0 -
Ah just the ticket, cheers. Bit on the pricey side, compared to the kona fork, mind.el_presidente wrote:Not if you get the right fork which is set up to go on suspension frames. e.g the on-one http://www.on-one-shop.co.uk/acatalog/O ... d_365.html
Well, this is my thinking exactly. It seems a bit of a shame as I doubt I'll be able to ebay it for very much. But then I do still have a cyclescheme thingy at work to take advantage of..el_presidente wrote:but to be honest if you have more problems with the current bike then I'd put the cash towards a new one0 -
If you have a cycle to work type thingie going on- then I'd go for a new bike... If you do spend money on the old one you could possibly be thinking that its not that much better.
Sometime its just better to cut your losses....
I'm seriously biased, but the Kaffenback from On-One is seriously worth thinking about- can be run with either flat bar or drops- full mudguard provision steel frame and designed to do a little bit of off road.... Just my opinion (biased)
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What about cyclo cross bikes - wouldn't they suit a heavier commuter?Old hippies don't die, they just lie low until the laughter stops and their time comes round again.
Joseph Gallivan0 -
steel frames have a little bit of give to them, in that they can flex slightly and ping back,
aluminium fatigues more, as i said earlier its more noticable riding off road
again, with the suspention fork being replaced with a ridgid fork,
you put a longer ridgid fork such as the kona project two or the on-one fork that was designed to go on their inbred frame.My signature was stolen by a moose
that will be all
trying to get GT James banned since tuesday0 -
Vince is probably right that the difference is bigger off-road, but 20-stone into a commuter pothole does, I think, make it worth considering. I know I'm happier on steel.0
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Thanks for the help everyone. It looks like I'm going to have to find a steel framed bike and give it a go.
And I should probably give drop bars a go too, as I have almost zero experience with them and have previously discounted them.0 -
The Kona Project 2 forks come in 3 lengths, standard, and 2 lengths for suspension correction, and also 700c. They also come in standard, butted, and triple butted (lightest) steel. Not all sizes / types are easy to find though, but they are very good forks IMHO.0
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Go for the biggest/strongest (thus US, in my experience) and cheapest you can find!
At 16 stone and 6'2", I avoid anything expensive as (a) the frames snap (twice I've been in a two-unicycle situation) (b) I'm a cheapskate and (c) it's likely to be nicked, anyway (living in London).
What's the point saving 10kg on a bike when I'm carrying 25kg+ in lard?
The trick is good maintenance and armoured tyres pumped to 100psi (get a car foot pump)!0 -
since we're talking about weight and frames... if you freewheel standing on one pedal... is that going to damage the frame at all?Purveyor of sonic doom
Very Hairy Roadie - FCN 4
Fixed Pista- FCN 5
Beared Bromptonite - FCN 140
