Quick release problem
whelieking27
Posts: 341
whenever i put the power down , my rear wheel sort of twists in its drop outs, causing my tyre to rub on my frame.
it seems to always happen, no matter how tight i do up the q/r skewer. No one at work can seem to find the cause.
has any one else ever experienced this problem?
could it be that the drop outs are worn out?
it seems to always happen, no matter how tight i do up the q/r skewer. No one at work can seem to find the cause.
has any one else ever experienced this problem?
could it be that the drop outs are worn out?
if you're not crashing, you're not trying.
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Comments
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Horizontal dropouts? What is the QR?0
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no , vertical drop outs. it seems to be any q/r that it happens to.if you're not crashing, you're not trying.0
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i may have to resort to getting the allen key skewers, these should prevent it happening and also stiffen up the rear end.if you're not crashing, you're not trying.0
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Does the wheel stay out of place when you take the power off?0
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yes, it's definitly not the bearings if thats what you were about to suggest. but thanks for the suggestion.if you're not crashing, you're not trying.0
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Hmmm, could be that the dropouts are not parallel, but that would be placing a lot of load on the axle. They rarely slip with vertical dropouts - they could be a wider than normal design though (Sheldon Brown states that slippage should not occur!). Try a Shimano Deore skewer!0
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i will do that.
the fact they may be wider than normal ones could just be down to wear.
if this helps , i'm using shimano hubs on sun singletrack rimsif you're not crashing, you're not trying.0 -
I know this sounds really patronising, are you definitely putting it right in and getting plenty of QR/frame contact?
Also, does it come out with a little force, or do you have to really really mash it?0 -
yes, it is all in properly, and i am gettig plenty of contact.
does what come out?if you're not crashing, you're not trying.0 -
the hub is a shimano FH-M475 disc hub. do these have a wider hole for the q/r to go through? as if that is the case that could be causing it to slip. i am using a2z skewers at the moment.if you're not crashing, you're not trying.0
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The wheel, as in how much force do you need to move the wheel, it sounds like possibly check to see if you are getting marks on the frame from the QR, generally you should be able to see where they have been done up as they will bite slightly into the frame.
Are the dropouts bare metal or are they painted?0 -
Are they titanium? These can stretch a bit. Also enclosed cam types such as Shimano work better (article on Sheldon Brown site on why)0
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they are now metal. as for the force it takes, it takes a fair bit, i have to be in a lower gear (harder to pedal) on the rear and the middle ring up front.
the q/r does seem to bite.if you're not crashing, you're not trying.0 -
no, they are not titanium , and they aren't the enclosed cam type. i will try to get hold of the deore enclosed cam type through halfords tommorow and see if that does the trick, if not do you know of any slightly thicker allen key type skewers?if you're not crashing, you're not trying.0
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I think USE do some.0
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do you have any idea where i could find them, i took a look on th U S E website , but they only seem to do road skewersif you're not crashing, you're not trying.0
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Have a look on CRC, might be others on there.0
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do you think these will do it?
http://www.halorims.com/HaloNew/hex.html
if i were to get the Rear (130mm); 9.0mm thick , providing that is long enough.if you're not crashing, you're not trying.0 -
the only ones of this type on CRC are the brand x , i tend to avoid these as they seem t be made of really chep, soft metal and they round of with the lightest of force when being tightened, i think the halo's are the answerif you're not crashing, you're not trying.0
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Your dropout OLD will be 135mm, so it wont be long enough. Also 9mm will be too thick I would have thought, the whole axle is only 9.5 or 10mm in diameter! I'd stick with the 6.5.0
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in that case i will get the Rear (135mm); 6.5mm thick. hopefully these will solve it. if not i think it will have to be down to wear on the drop outs, in which case it will be a whole new rear end ( it's a full susser )if you're not crashing, you're not trying.0
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Actually, I think it means the dropout thickness lol. Any way, will need a 135.0
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Other option is to replace the whole axle for a solid one with nuts. That wont slip!0
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And looking even further lol, I am sure the 130 and the 135 are the same skewer - its just saying what it will fit (smaller gap, but thicker dropouts if you get my drift). So just order standard ones.0
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won't that void my wheel / hub warrantyif you're not crashing, you're not trying.0
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whelieking27 wrote:won't that void my wheel / hub warranty
Cant see why it would. They tend to wear out before they break anyway!0 -
i will have a look at doing that. but first i will go with the allen key skewers. i haven't really got the mony for an axle at the moment - saving for a 125 motorbike!if you're not crashing, you're not trying.0
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Halfords do solid 10mm cromo axles with wheelnuts for about 7 quid, or used to when I worked there! Just use the cones and locknuts from the old axle, checking the thread pitch is the same.0
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yeah , i work at halfords now. but in my time there i have come to notice that they don't really last and i'd prefer something a little more expensive / stronger, as if i'm going to do a 10 ft drop i want to have confidence in it.if you're not crashing, you're not trying.0
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There is nothing stronger than a solid cromo axle - though the hub may not be up to the vigours of big drops! I run M475 hubs, robust, but not very good bearings.0