Cross bike build

powenb
powenb Posts: 296
edited February 2008 in Workshop
I'm going to start building a 'cross bike for next season.
It will be my first season but I am going to work hard in the summer so i'm ready.
I just need a bike!! :)
Planet X look like they have a good value frame/fork, but is there any others that are worth considering?
Also gears, I'm might need some, so do I go for 105 or XT/Tiagra shifters? :?

Thanks in advance.

Comments

  • redddraggon
    redddraggon Posts: 10,862
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Cate ... goryID=623

    Kinesis make good frames, and there's a few CX frames to choose from.
    I like bikes...

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  • meagain
    meagain Posts: 2,331
    The 4T and the Uncle John look to my admittedly inexpert eye pretty good VFM at crc's prices.
    d.j.
    "Cancel my subscription to the resurrection."
  • powenb
    powenb Posts: 296
    The 4T looks nice, it suggests an alloy fork with it, would it be better with a carbon one?
  • powenb
    powenb Posts: 296
    Or is it best to just save up and get a full bike, rather than building one?
  • meagain
    meagain Posts: 2,331
    Empellas always LOOK the business to me - this one might affordable!

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/cyclocross-frame- ... dZViewItem

    Usual disclaimer. Not mine. No interest.
    d.j.
    "Cancel my subscription to the resurrection."
  • jpembroke
    jpembroke Posts: 2,569
    I built up an Uncle John frame and forks with 105 parts and Aksium wheels, which I raced this season and did quite well on. To be honest I'm not completely satisfied with it. I like the paint job and the finishing, I like the fact it has a proper (conventional) headset, I also like the fact that it has disk brake, rack, mudguard, and bottle cage mounts (missing on may cross frames). However, my main criticism of this frame is the geometry. I have a medium size Planet X Superlight (alloy) frame, which fits me perfectly but the medium-sized Uncle John, which was recommended to me, just feels massive. It is 54cm c-t in, contrast to the 51cm c-t of the Superlight, meaning it has less standover clearance than my road bike - as far as I'm concerned a cross bike should have more standover clearance as you have to dismount and remount during races. It also has a really long headtube (14cm + stack height of headset = >16cm), which makes you feel really high up - a bit sit-up-and-beg. I would prefer a shorted headtube like the Focus bikes have. (Another Uncle John owner I spoke to at a race felt exactly the same.)

    Having now read up more on cross bike geometry and discovered that they should ideally have a top tube that is 2-3cm shorter than your road bike, I realise that a 51cm Uncle John (small size) would have been a better option. I may swap my medium frame for a small, or sell the entire bike and buy something different for next season.

    My advice to anyone buying an Uncle John for the purposes of racing is to go for a smaller size.
    I'm only concerned with looking concerned
  • powenb
    powenb Posts: 296
    jpembroke wrote:
    Having now read up more on cross bike geometry and discovered that they should ideally have a top tube that is 2-3cm shorter than your road bike, I realise that a 51cm Uncle John (small size) would have been a better option. I may swap my medium frame for a small, or sell the entire bike and buy something different for next season.

    That is great thanks.
    I was wondering why my Scott road bike has a ETT length of 56 on a medium frame and their cross bike is 56 ETT on a 58!!

    Also there is a 56 S-works frame on ebay. As my road bike is a 56, should I go for a 54?
  • acorn_user
    acorn_user Posts: 1,137
    Have to recommend Campagnolo Ergo levers. If you crash into mud, you will spend ages picking it out of the STI levers bits and the top caps will come flying off. You could use a Shiftmate or tricks to use them with any Shimano gear you have. They are also much cheaper than STI, costing about the same as some bar end shifters and a pair of aero brake levers.
  • powenb
    powenb Posts: 296
    I'm definately going for Shimano as that is what is on my other bikes.
    But do I go for 105, or would Tiagra be better?
  • redddraggon
    redddraggon Posts: 10,862
    powenb wrote:
    I'm definately going for Shimano as that is what is on my other bikes.

    You need to sort out your other bikes while you're at it then.
    I like bikes...

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  • jpembroke
    jpembroke Posts: 2,569
    I'm a Campag person but for some reason I just can't imagine having Campag on my cross bike: it just doesn't seem right somehow. Maybe it's the thought of all that Italian loveliness getting dirty.....

    Anyway, don't stick anything less than 105 on a cross bike: it has to be able to take the abuse!
    I'm only concerned with looking concerned
  • powenb
    powenb Posts: 296
    What about sizing?
    As my road bike is a 56 TT do I get a cross frame with a 56TT?
    Or do I go one size smaller?
  • jpembroke
    jpembroke Posts: 2,569
    powenb wrote:
    What about sizing?
    As my road bike is a 56 TT do I get a cross frame with a 56TT?
    Or do I go one size smaller?

    Read my post above. You should ideally get one size smaller: it'll give you greater standover clearance and a shorter top tube - ideal racing geometry.
    I'm only concerned with looking concerned
  • powenb
    powenb Posts: 296
    jpembroke wrote:
    Read my post above. You should ideally get one size smaller: it'll give you greater standover clearance and a shorter top tube - ideal racing geometry.

    Thanks, just wanted confirmation.
    The kinesis frames that are smaller come in with a 55 or 53.5 ETT length.
    I just wonder if the 53.5 would be TOO small.
  • jpembroke
    jpembroke Posts: 2,569
    Hmm, it may be a tad short. What is your current road bike effective top tube length? According to a recent C+ article here the top tube should be a few cms shorter than your road bike. I guess it's up to you. It depends what you want the bike for: if it's purely for racing then go short, if it's a do anything bike (i.e. racing, touring, training) then a get frame similar to your road bike. Personally, I wish I'd got a size smaller. ETT length on my current cross bike is about 55 (same as my road bike). The smaller size would have given me 52.5, which is very short but would be perfect for racing.
    I'm only concerned with looking concerned
  • powenb
    powenb Posts: 296
    Thanks again.
    It will be just for racing.
    I'll have another measure tonight to check what mine is.
  • jpembroke
    jpembroke Posts: 2,569
    If it's purely for racing then don't rush in to anything. You have ages to sort this out. Aim to get the bike set up by mid summer then you can spend 3 months training for the start of the season. A Kinesis frame with 105 and a decent set of wheels is going to be a very cool rig for racing on. You'll love it!
    I'm only concerned with looking concerned
  • powenb
    powenb Posts: 296
    Cheers.
    I'd better practice running up hills with it on over my shoulder to!! :shock:
  • jpembroke
    jpembroke Posts: 2,569
    It helps but in most races you don't get much of that, just small obstacles and hurdles, for which you just need to grab the bike by its top tube. Practicing dismounts and remounting is the crucial skill. Get down your local park and have a go - preferably when it's quiet :wink:

    A good tip: when I carry the bike on my right shoulder I hold the down tube, close to the bottom bracket, with my right hand. This takes some of the weight off your shoulder and eases the pain. You can steady the bars with your left hand if you need to.
    I'm only concerned with looking concerned
  • powenb
    powenb Posts: 296
    What tyres do people suggest?
  • jpembroke
    jpembroke Posts: 2,569
    I use these. Great in most conditions but when it gets really filthy you may want to try something very knobbly (Michelin Mud?).
    I'm only concerned with looking concerned
  • jpembroke
    jpembroke Posts: 2,569
    Oh, and invest in some Vredestein inner tubes. The ultralite tubes that Ribble offer with these both went pop on my first outing.
    I'm only concerned with looking concerned
  • Ken Night
    Ken Night Posts: 2,005
    You should get this

    Campag equipped, disc braked, nice tyres......dreamy
    “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best..." Ernest Hemingway
  • meagain
    meagain Posts: 2,331
    THAT is indeed very nice. But then I suppose it should be at, what, 3-3.5 grand!
    d.j.
    "Cancel my subscription to the resurrection."
  • powenb
    powenb Posts: 296
    Has anyone had any experience of the Dolan cross bike?
    It's £255 with fork/headset/post.
  • jpembroke
    jpembroke Posts: 2,569
    £235 on Parker which includes headset, seatpost, and seatpost clamp in addition to the frame & forks. Nice looking frame and a real bargain.
    I'm only concerned with looking concerned
  • powenb
    powenb Posts: 296
    It does look very good value, especially next to the Kinesis Pro5 I was considering which with my LBS discount comes out at £450 for just the frame and fork.
  • jpembroke
    jpembroke Posts: 2,569
    The only (minor) criticism is the angle of the headtube: a road bike-style 73deg instead of a more relaxed 71-72deg you usually see on cross bikes. Not that it's going to make any difference to the vast majority of riders and in fact makes this frame more adaptable. This frame is definitely worth considering.
    I'm only concerned with looking concerned
  • acorn_user
    acorn_user Posts: 1,137
    Epic Cycles near my home town were offering Viner made cross frames with high end Dedaciaii tubing for a wonderful price just after Christmas. You should call them ;)
  • powenb
    powenb Posts: 296
    I think I am going to get a Bianchi alu bike which comes with Tiagra.
    I'm going to use the money I save by not building one up to get a good set of handbuit wheels.

    Now the groupset, do I put on the 10 speed 105 I have at home, or do I stick to 9 speed but upgrade the shifters and rear mech to either 105 or better??

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