Chain cleaning

Roger Davies
Roger Davies Posts: 305
edited January 2008 in Road beginners
I've been thinking of buying one of these chain cleaners, they kinda wrap around the chain and rotating brushes in degreaser clean the crud off while you rotate the chain. I really hate having a dirty chain and shifter. Anyone ever used one? are they effective? Right now I take it off the bike and clean it with an old toothbrush and white spirit. How do you clean your chain and how often?
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Old bikes are better

Comments

  • chronyx
    chronyx Posts: 455
    I just cycled across Chobham Common and cleaned my chain when I got back by turning the bike upside down, using an old paintbrush and a pot of 'truck wash'/traffic film remover, then a thorough hose down.

    Couldn't even feel any grit in between the links afterwards which I'm really chuffed about as last time there was still a graunchy feeling moving the chain in the 'sideways' plane.
    2007 Giant SCR2 - 'BFG'

    Gone but not forgotten!:
    2005 Specialized Hardrock Sport - 'Red Rocket'
  • APIII
    APIII Posts: 2,010
    Yeah, I use one. Dead easy to use, only takes a couple of minutes and makes a HUGE difference. I probably use it once a week at the moment.
  • woody-som
    woody-som Posts: 1,001
    I have one of those chain cleaners, just used it after todays ride. Great for a clean without removing the chain. I always use diesel to clean the chain, it also helps lubricate slightly, and doesn't require washing off with water like some of the modern chemicals do.

    This time of the year, if the chain gets wet, then I clean it after every ride, and I've just replaced the chain after 3 years of winter riding and the old chain had 0.75% elongation according to the park chain checker I have, so this cleaning method works.
  • woody-som wrote:
    I have one of those chain cleaners, just used it after todays ride. Great for a clean without removing the chain. I always use diesel to clean the chain, it also helps lubricate slightly, and doesn't require washing off with water like some of the modern chemicals do.

    This time of the year, if the chain gets wet, then I clean it after every ride, and I've just replaced the chain after 3 years of winter riding and the old chain had 0.75% elongation according to the park chain checker I have, so this cleaning method works.

    Thanks Woody and APlll. That's the sort of advice I want. Cheers.

    Talking of chain stretching. I've been riding the same chain for nearly seven years and it hasnt streched at all according to my Park checker. But then I dont strain uphills which is what so I hear that streches them. I get off and walk.
    ********************
    Old bikes are better
  • JonBurns
    JonBurns Posts: 212
    So what's a good chain cleaner to get? Park, Pedros, Finish Line? They all look pretty much the same but vary in price somewhat. Should getting one with a magnet be a priority?

    (being slightly tight) looking at them they surely shouldn't cost £15-20?
  • chronyx
    chronyx Posts: 455
    Doesn't get much cheaper than a couple of quid for a paint brush and some 'Gunk'. :? :roll:
    2007 Giant SCR2 - 'BFG'

    Gone but not forgotten!:
    2005 Specialized Hardrock Sport - 'Red Rocket'
  • APIII
    APIII Posts: 2,010
    I think the one I got is by Finish Line. It came with a bottle of citrus degreaser if i remember correctly. This is quite expensive stuff, (as I discovered when it ran out) but extremely effective. The chain is like new after just a few seconds.
    One problem is that it does tend to spray black gunk all over your wheels when in use. I think Park Tools does one that encases the whole cassette, which I presume prevents this.
  • JonBurns wrote:
    So what's a good chain cleaner to get? Park, Pedros, Finish Line? They all look pretty much the same but vary in price somewhat. Should getting one with a magnet be a priority?

    (being slightly tight) looking at them they surely shouldn't cost £15-20?

    I just bought the Finish Line one for £20 from kudubikes. Included delivery.
    ********************
    Old bikes are better
  • I just wipe the chain with an old rag once a week and apply a light oil.
  • ForumNewbie
    ForumNewbie Posts: 1,664
    I just wipe the chain with an old rag once a week and apply a light oil.
    I bought one of these chain cleaners during the week but have not used it yet as I was a bit concerned about some posts on here warning that if you take off all the old oil and not fully lube it again, it could do some damage to chain, cogs etc.

    Accordingly after a wet ride today I just gave the chain a good wipe with an old cloth. I also wiped as much muck of all the cogs and things and then re-lubed the chain (with that wet weather lube) and ran it over all the cog gears at the back (sorry I don't know all the technical names for bike parts) to ensure it was well oiled.

    However I'm probably being over-cautious and may try using the chain cleaner to degrease it after my next ride. After degreasing with the chain cleaner do you then fill it up with water to wash away the degreaser? After that I guess I should try and dry the chain as best I can with a cloth before re-lubing it.

    Will that be safe enough to not cause any damage?
  • Well I don't think the chain cleaner will remove all the lubricant, so I wouldn't worry too much. The only way to do that is to soak it in petrol, follow that with methylated spirits, and out will come a new chain, squeaky clean. The links will rattle against eachother, so I'm pretty sure that all the gunk is removed between the chain rollers & plates... a local bike shop told me not to do this, and now I'm inclined to agree.

    I'm pretty suprised at the mileage one of my bikes has on a standard ultegra chain. Like I said, all I have done is lube it wipe it with a rag & re-lube it before goes out again.
  • Mettan
    Mettan Posts: 2,103
    It's also worth cleaning your chainrings in addition to your chain - I've found after recent rides my chainrings have got far more grit on them than either the chain or cassette - naively you can clean the chain and think "that's great", then after moving it you can still hear and feel a gritting sensation still - always worth checking your chainrings and cassette in addition to the chain.
  • I'd agree with that 100%, and also clean between the rear sprockets with a piece of rag (if they don't appear to look like metal anymore).
  • While we're on the subject, I was going to post elsewhere but I just picked up my new road bike and, unfortunately, my first ride home was in the appalling weather the south-west had on Saturday.

    When I got the bike home (both I and it were drenched) I gave it a wipe down, but 24 hours later, the chain and cassette now have a thin layer of rust on.

    I read somewhere that "a bit of surface rust is no problem and will disappear with use". Is this true? Should this be expected from a brand new chain? I assumed it would be well-lube'd when I picked the bike it (it feels kinda dry-greasy).

    Any advice on removing surface rust? I'm a bit gutted that my brand new bike has a rusty chain after 24 hours!

    Cheers,

    MR
  • feel
    feel Posts: 800
    Hi Roger, you might want to read this similar thread
    We are born with the dead:
    See, they return, and bring us with them.
  • Fab Foodie
    Fab Foodie Posts: 5,155
    This is a much discussed topic.
    After trying every method over the last 25 years I've finally come to realise that those chain cleaner/solvent things will kill your chain in no time...

    Here's the expert opinion:

    http://www.kmcchain.com.tw/index.php?ln=en&fn=service#2

    The pessimists of this world are rarely disappointed....
    Fab's TCR1
  • So am I. Makes you wonder on the quality of the metal
    ********************
    Old bikes are better
  • That's an interesting article. But how does one get dirt out of a chain without cleaning it thoroughly. Personally I wouldent use a water based solvent. I'd use white spirit or as another poster here wisely suggested deisel. Then dry and oil it thoroughly.
    ********************
    Old bikes are better
  • Fab Foodie wrote:
    This is a much discussed topic.
    After trying every method over the last 25 years I've finally come to realise that those chain cleaner/solvent things will kill your chain in no time...

    Here's the expert opinion:

    http://www.kmcchain.com.tw/index.php?ln=en&fn=service#2

    An excellent link (no pun intended :P )
  • DavidTQ
    DavidTQ Posts: 943
    I use a wet wipe to give my chain a rough clean regularly and relube, every so often (anwhere between 2-6 weeks or so :D ), I get out the chain cleaner that goes over the chain, and give it a "deep" clean, the amount of crap that comes out of a chain even after a normal cleaning is amazing, Yesterday I had to use about 7 refills of water and 4 of solvent before the stuff was no longer coming out black. I then relubed.

    I use weldtite tf2+ lube or something like that, which appears to be a penetrating solvent type to get the lube where it needs to go, its designed for all weathers which is just as well seeing as it got used all the way through last summer...

    Chain wear wise the bikes too new to know, I have a hilly commute and the bike gets ridden in all weathers so I can expect miracles, all I could say is that the chains looks shiney, and runs smoothly...
  • feel
    feel Posts: 800

    Any advice on removing surface rust? I'm a bit gutted that my brand new bike has a rusty chain after 24 hours!

    Cheers,

    MR

    Would think that applying a wet lube with a toothbrush would do the trick.
    We are born with the dead:
    See, they return, and bring us with them.
  • feel wrote:
    Hi Roger, you might want to read this similar thread

    Good link Feel. Quite honestly though it's hard to see how anyone has enough time to completely disassemble every link, do the overnight stuff, then clean each individual link and then reassemble the chain every time the chain needs cleaning which I think is about every month. It would be easier actually to buy a bike with a completely enclosed chain set like dear old Dad used to ride. :D

    Bikers mention chain lube but what's wrong with 3 in 1. It doesnt stick on parts you dont want it to stick to and it's runny and gets right into the links. I clean my chain every month but wipe and oil it every three rides or so. I'm still using the same chain after seven years.
    ********************
    Old bikes are better
  • Mapman
    Mapman Posts: 254
    quickest way for a i have found ifor decent finish is 1 old gloves on 2 clean most muck of with old rag 3soak sponge with washupliquid with bike on stand spin pedals and clean chain with sponge ,washing out as you go 4 quick spray of wd40 to drive out water 5 wipe and relube 5mins max
  • feel
    feel Posts: 800
    . It would be easier actually to buy a bike with a completely enclosed chain set like dear old Dad used to ride. :D

    .

    Same with motorbikes, years ago MZ did bikes with completely enclosed rear chains and they never wore out. Strangely it never caught on with other mainstream motorcycle manufacturers :roll: was it something to do with selling more chains.
    TBH i think there is a lot of paranoia over chains. If you are not careful you can easily spend a small fortune on chain cleaning products - immersion cleaner, solvent, brushes, wet lube, dry lube or many hours of your time painstakingly cleaning, not forgetting your special tool for measuring how wear is causing an increase in length - all to prolong the life of something that probably costs less than £20. Financially you are probably winning if you spend nothing on cleaning and just buy a new chain every year :shock:

    that said i've still got chains on two bikes that are well over 5 years old and appear to be working fine (touch wood)
    We are born with the dead:
    See, they return, and bring us with them.
  • Good point Feel. Chains dont cost much agreed but cogs do especially if you're an old bike enthusiast like me. Bits just are not easy to come by.

    My last motorcycle had an enclosed chain set the only problem was it was murder to get off and murder to get back on.
    ********************
    Old bikes are better
  • The KMC article is interesting. SRAM also advise:

    "Regular lubrication will extend the chain's service life. Apply oil to the chain links rollers and allow to work in.
    • Clean dirty chains before oiling. Do not use any grease-dissolving or acidic agents. Cleaning agent must be rinsed off after a few minutes
    with water. Apply oil after chain is completely dried."

    So it doesn't advise using a solvent, but a "cleaning agent"! Useful.

    However, it is all very well to find out how I should treat my chain in an ideal world, but I know that I won't have/make the time to clean it every wet ride or week. I have been using one of those cleaner thingies for the last year, but it looks like I am better just giving a quick wipe!
  • Mettan
    Mettan Posts: 2,103
    I use Wedlite TF2 for general lubrication (non-chain) - nice spray nossle, gets into the right bits - and then Finish Line wet lube cross country on the chain itself - not sure what to make of the Finish line yet, but think the TF2's excellent for general lubrication.
  • DavidTQ
    DavidTQ Posts: 943
    Mettan wrote:
    I use Wedlite TF2 for general lubrication (non-chain) - nice spray nossle, gets into the right bits - and then Finish Line wet lube cross country on the chain itself - not sure what to make of the Finish line yet, but think the TF2's excellent for general lubrication.

    they do the tf 2 in a squeezy bottle as well not just the spray cans the bottle works very well for one drip per roller.