Look Keo pedals - how to get the things off.
lanterne-rouge
Posts: 76
I've got these on my road bike at the moment, and want to upgrade them (still Keos, different spec). Now I had them put on for me as part of a full build, and I'm rubbish at mechanics anyway. I'd expected to use a spanner, but it seems I need to use a 8mm allen key - which I went out and bought.
Thing is neither pedal will budge. Any hints - in particular, which way do I turn to loosen - is it still righty tighty, lefty loosy? Because with pedals from the front isn't it the "wrong" way round? But as I'm accessing the thread from the back of the pedal, does it go back to normal?
If all fails, if I go to a bike shop, do they have a tool which can get these things off?
Thanks in advance!
Thing is neither pedal will budge. Any hints - in particular, which way do I turn to loosen - is it still righty tighty, lefty loosy? Because with pedals from the front isn't it the "wrong" way round? But as I'm accessing the thread from the back of the pedal, does it go back to normal?
If all fails, if I go to a bike shop, do they have a tool which can get these things off?
Thanks in advance!
Punctured Bicycle, on a hillside desolate.
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lanterne-rouge wrote:I've got these on my road bike at the moment, and want to upgrade them (still Keos, different spec). Now I had them put on for me as part of a full build, and I'm rubbish at mechanics anyway. I'd expected to use a spanner, but it seems I need to use a 8mm allen key - which I went out and bought.
Thing is neither pedal will budge. Any hints - in particular, which way do I turn to loosen - is it still righty tighty, lefty loosy? Because with pedals from the front isn't it the "wrong" way round? But as I'm accessing the thread from the back of the pedal, does it go back to normal?
If all fails, if I go to a bike shop, do they have a tool which can get these things off?
Thanks in advance!
Hi there.
Not very helpful in your case, but the trick is to use grease when you fit them...
Cheers, Andy0 -
So it's different on each side!
OK - so that's if using a spanner, which you can't do on these puppies, you need to use an allen key on the reverse of the pedal. Which way do you do it with an allen key?! Presumably also different each side?
Thanks for the diagram - I'll do some mentally agility exercises and try to extrapolate!Punctured Bicycle, on a hillside desolate.0 -
It's exactly the same way with the allen key ( I fitted a set yesterday )
If they're real tight then give them a squirt of WD40 or similar....0 -
Not much mental agility required - if you simply replace the piuctured spanner which attaches on one side of the crank with the allen key which attaches on the other side of the crank, then you turn in the same direction (in relation to the bike, not the crank). ie if you have the arm of the allen key pointing backwards towards the BB, you push down to loosen (mind your knuckles on the chainrings!)
One other tip - you don't get much leverage with an ak - especially if it's not a long arm job. Find a bit of tubing to use as an extension to get more leverage (if you have a socket set, a 8mm socket and a socket extension works very nicely).0 -
Thanks everybody!Punctured Bicycle, on a hillside desolate.0
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In addition to the tubing that aracer describes above, if the pedals are *really* stuck then an upturned house brick (with a cloth to protect the crank) placed under the opposing crank arm can help to ensure maximum opposing force. A second person to hold the bike helps while doing this. It sounds brutal, but all you are using the brick for is to provide a stable platform and is particularly useful on a half-stripped bike with no chain (I speak from irritating experience).0
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Be careful of those sharp teeth on the chainset. I had a similar problem with a difficult pedal, it cost me a fair amount of skin, blood and anguish. On the credit side, you only remove the skin once !!! I now don't forget to grease and to position myself to avoid the teeth.0
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gavintc wrote:Be careful of those sharp teeth on the chainset. I had a similar problem with a difficult pedal, it cost me a fair amount of skin, blood and anguish. On the credit side, you only remove the skin once !!! I now don't forget to grease and to position myself to avoid the teeth.
You can avoid this to some extent by shifting the chain onto the outer 'ring when removing pedals. If you do slip it will do less damage.
Hypocrisy is only a bad thing in other people.0 -
You unscrew pedals the opposite way to the direction you pedal. If you visualise the bike in forward motion, you're turning the cranks clockwise on the driveside and anti-clockwise on the non-drive side ... simply unscrew the pedals in the opposite direction!0
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Actually the pedals unscrew in the same direction that you pedal...
Removing & installing pedals is one of my major chores and this is one reason why I don't like the new pedals that use an 8mm allen key. It can be dangerous! :evil:
It's so much easier with a long 15mm pedal spanner.0