Fixed questions / dropouts
Langenberg
Posts: 453
Hi there,
was planning to get a fixed handbuilt (steel)... normal bikes kind of don't fit me.
A bit of a newbie question: is it ok to go for standard horizontal dropouts? I have seen these drop outs using a screw to (I assume) keep the back wheel from slipping forward. Should I go for something like this?
The other question is, if the dropouts are just painted, i.e. no chrome, does the paint get damaged more easily than normally?
Thanks a lot!
Langenberg
was planning to get a fixed handbuilt (steel)... normal bikes kind of don't fit me.
A bit of a newbie question: is it ok to go for standard horizontal dropouts? I have seen these drop outs using a screw to (I assume) keep the back wheel from slipping forward. Should I go for something like this?
The other question is, if the dropouts are just painted, i.e. no chrome, does the paint get damaged more easily than normally?
Thanks a lot!
Langenberg
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Pas de progrŠs sans peigne.
Pas de progrŠs sans peigne.
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Comments
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For me personally, i can see the merits of the chain tensioners you refer to, but as someone else pointed out, you have to screw them back in to enable the wheel to be changed. I would like to spend a bit of time with a bike with those drop outs- ive had a rash of punctures lately, which i find more trouble to change on a fixed (i commute daily on it). I wouldnt say the paint gets damaged any more easily, really, but you do notice it more since you move the axle backwards and forwards, whereas the same spot is always covered on vertical drop outs.0
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There may be a hint of confusion/terminology here!
By horozontal do you mean as in traditional "normal" drop outs (slots for the axle anything from 3/4 to 2" long and pointing forwards) or open slots facing rearwards - usually termed "track ends"? The former are fine for fixed and IMHO actually have some advantages over the latter. The adjuster screw that trad horizontals sometimes have are simply a guide to wheel placement and would play no part in maintaining chain tension. The adjusters ("chain tugs") used with track ends are quite different. And intended to assist chain tensioning. Again a matter of opinion (and leg strength) but I see no need for them.
Yes track nuts will mark paint! Chromed ends not a good idea I think - too "slippery". Ti also has some difficulties - but can be overcome by use of serrated washers.
Nice soft steel that the nuts can bite into is best!d.j.
"Cancel my subscription to the resurrection."0 -
I would be tempted to have Mercian build me a Professional, they have long speared lugs adding rigidity to the frame, with 120 rear spacing and horizontal drop outs not track ends. If you use mudguards on this wet island changing with track ends is a real pain as the rear mudguard becomes an obstrucion.
http://www.merciancycles.com/frame_professional.asp0