Tools required for bike build (campag)

redddraggon
redddraggon Posts: 10,862
edited January 2008 in Workshop
What cycle specific tools will be needed to completely assemble a bike with campag centaur?

I think all I've got currently is a chain whip. So I think I need:
    Torque Wrench Bottom Bracket tool Campag specific cassette tool

What else?

EDIT: I have chain tool and workstand too.
I like bikes...

Twitter
Flickr

Comments

  • Smokin Joe
    Smokin Joe Posts: 2,706
    That's it.

    Everything else is standard cycle stuff.
  • robbarker
    robbarker Posts: 1,367
    Cable cutters
    Chain tool
    Anti-seize

    Make sure you have hex bits for your torque wrench - you need an long thin socket extension too for torquing the new campag chainset bolts - the one that holds the two halves together.

    I think you'd just abouit manage it with those, plus a hex wrench set and a pair of pliers.

    Is your frame prepared and with headset in place? Ideally it will be, and the botoom bracket shell and headtube will have been faced, and all the threads cleaned and chased out.
  • redddraggon
    redddraggon Posts: 10,862
    http://wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx? ... e%20Wrench

    I'm hoping just one torque wrench will do the job, I'll just have to be careful with the lower torques. Is that Park tool one any good?

    On the likes of Wiggle, I've seen combined cassette and BB tools for Campag, will these work with the Ultra Torque setup? Any recommendations?

    I haven't got the frame yet - it's on order and hopefully will come next week. So I've no real idea of the state of the threads.

    Cable cutters? Will any do?
    I like bikes...

    Twitter
    Flickr
  • top_bhoy
    top_bhoy Posts: 1,424
    Cable cutters? Will any do?
    I've used my Park cable cutters today for the first time in anger. They did exactly as what it said on the tin and being Park, I'm hoping that they will last for a while - its not a tool that gets used every day for most non-professionals. Cost wise - I thought they were as competitive as any other similar tool.

    If your getting tools, you may want to also consider a crank extractor tool (appropriate for the type you have) for later maintainance jobs.
  • whyamihere
    whyamihere Posts: 7,719
    Park cable cutters are excellent. Cheaper ones aren't worth the money. I've used them, and they blunt a lot faster than Park. If you stick around the Park/Pedros level, you'll be fine whatever you buy though.
  • robbarker
    robbarker Posts: 1,367
    If you're getting an Ultra--torque chainset, you need the same bottom bracket tool that Shimano etc external bottom brackets use. Park do one you can use with a torque wrench. You also need a seperate cassette lock ring. If you're going to get a square-taper chainset, the same tool is used to secure the bottom bracket and cassette. (If you go lower than Centaur, the bottom bracket tool is different again!)

    FWIW I wouldn't get an ultra-torque chainset - they seem to be causing a lot of problems if not torqued properly (to about 400 inch lbs, which is a lot) Campag also stipulate using thread-locker on the bottom bracket cups, which strikes me as being a bodge to get around a poor basic design.
  • robbarker
    robbarker Posts: 1,367
    As far as cable cutters go, another vote for Park - I also have Shimano ones but they don't cut as cleanly.

    The Park torque wrench is fine - I have them in both sizes. The big one is the one you can't do without for Ultratorque installation, the small one is nice to have but no absolutely esential if you have a good feel for fastners. Screwfix sell the hex bits to go with it for a tenner btw.
  • redddraggon
    redddraggon Posts: 10,862
    robbarker wrote:
    If you're getting an Ultra--torque chainset, you need the same bottom bracket tool that Shimano etc external bottom brackets use. Park do one you can use with a torque wrench. You also need a seperate cassette lock ring. If you're going to get a square-taper chainset, the same tool is used to secure the bottom bracket and cassette. (If you go lower than Centaur, the bottom bracket tool is different again!)

    FWIW I wouldn't get an ultra-torque chainset - they seem to be causing a lot of problems if not torqued properly (to about 400 inch lbs, which is a lot) Campag also stipulate using thread-locker on the bottom bracket cups, which strikes me as being a bodge to get around a poor basic design.

    http://wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx? ... ket%20Tool

    I've just ordered this, along with the park tool cable cutters and torque wrench.

    Will be visiting Screwfix to get the hex bits for the wrench.

    Can anyone point me towards the appropriate cassette tool and crank puller?
    I like bikes...

    Twitter
    Flickr
  • Smokin Joe
    Smokin Joe Posts: 2,706
    Cassette tool here -

    http://wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx? ... val%20Tool


    You don't need a crank puller with Ultra Torque.
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    The standard 3/8" drive hex bits from Halfords work with an UT chainset - no need for an extra long version. I'd recommend a 2-20Nm 3/8" drive torque wrench - particularly if using multi-bolt carbon stems. No need for a bigger one as a firm heave is good enough for things like cassette lockrings and BB cups - you'd need to massively over-do it to damage anything. A grease gun, threadlock and anti-seize are worth having too.
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • redddraggon
    redddraggon Posts: 10,862
    Monty Dog wrote:
    The standard 3/8" drive hex bits from Halfords work with an UT chainset - no need for an extra long version. I'd recommend a 2-20Nm 3/8" drive torque wrench - particularly if using multi-bolt carbon stems.

    The handlebars and stem will be alloy. Seatpost, frame, fork and steerer will be carbon though.

    Which 3/8" socket sets are recommended?
    I like bikes...

    Twitter
    Flickr
  • redddraggon
    redddraggon Posts: 10,862
    What do I need the Hex Sockets for?
    I like bikes...

    Twitter
    Flickr
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    The hex bits are instead of Allen keys - they're far more accurately made so less likely to round-off a screw head unlike cheap allen keys - even using them with a cheap socket wrench feels a lot better.
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • redddraggon
    redddraggon Posts: 10,862
    Monty Dog wrote:
    The hex bits are instead of Allen keys - they're far more accurately made so less likely to round-off a screw head unlike cheap allen keys - even using them with a cheap socket wrench feels a lot better.

    Aye, for some reason today I thought I needed hex sockets, rather than the bits. I couldn't work out why I needed them.
    I like bikes...

    Twitter
    Flickr
  • robbarker
    robbarker Posts: 1,367
    Whilst looking for something else, I just found this:

    http://www.parktool.com/repair/readcalv ... asp?id=154

    Hope it helps!
  • redddraggon
    redddraggon Posts: 10,862
    Apart from the obvious campag chains, what 3rd party chains are compatible with the Campagnolo drivetrain?

    SRAM?
    KMC?

    I like the idea of a quick link.
    I like bikes...

    Twitter
    Flickr
  • gkerr4
    gkerr4 Posts: 3,408
    I'll be going for the KMC SL10speed - the gold one for a bit of bling - with the quick removable links - the std campag one apparently needs a £60 tool to fit!!!
  • robbarker
    robbarker Posts: 1,367
    How about one of these?

    http://www.cyclesurgery.com/ProductDeta ... 284dd1902e

    I've been running a 9 sp version on mmy audax bike and have got excellent wear from it.

    It has a quick link and looks brilliant in the champagne gold colour - you're going to have quite a blingy bike and this would enhance it!
  • redddraggon
    redddraggon Posts: 10,862
    Do I need the Campag allen key for the ultra torque?

    Or can I get away with a normal allen key?
    I like bikes...

    Twitter
    Flickr
  • aracer
    aracer Posts: 1,649
    You should use a torque wrench to do up the centre bolt - I've heard far too many tales of it coming loose to do otherwise (Campag also say not to use a normal allen key). The problem with a normal key being that you'll have to put the long end in to reach, hence end up using the short end to tighten with.

    Doesn't necessarily mean you need to buy the Campag tool - I did mine by hacksawing the end off an AK, then using a 10mm socket on a torque wrench with that.