how to full lockout?

alprod

Hi,

Hope someone can help. I recently bought a scott reflex 50 which is meant to have full lockout on the front suspension, the problem is it doesn't seem to lockout. when i adjust the settings i can get the suspension harder and softer but not to fully lockout. Is there something im doing wrong?

If anyone can shed any light on this it would be a big help.

thanks

MUnibiker

Which fork have you got?

alprod

Hi,

The springs are Suntour XCM-H-with Lockout 100mm travel. I'm meant to turn the knob on the right hand side of the springs fully clockwise. I do this but it still doesn't lock out?

The Big Cheese

You will still get about < >10mm travel when the fork is locked out - it is normal.

alprod

ok cheers for that.

Thats a bit rubbish though, bought it because i thought it woulf lock out :?

The Big Cheese

when locked out, a fork doesnt become a rigid fork. Either at £100 or £700.

the 10mm buffer is there to protect the fork from damage when locked out. You actually need that 10mm play.

Your forks are locking out - but they (or any others) don't turn into 100% rigid.

Hope this helps.

S_J_P

I had a SR Suntour fork which had a full lockout, I could lock it at any position in its travel. Are you sure the fork is fully extended before you activate the lock?

JumperSimon14

I got told its for if you hit something hard you won't ruin your wheel or forks.

Andy

Cheesey wrote:

when locked out, a fork doesnt become a rigid fork. Either at £100 or £700.

the 10mm buffer is there to protect the fork from damage when locked out. You actually need that 10mm play.

Your forks are locking out - but they (or any others) don't turn into 100% rigid.

Hope this helps.

My RC39 C-Types must be broken then...

stubs

Some so called lockouts just make the compression damping go very stiff but still allow some movement. Other lockouts shut a valve in the compression damping circuit this locks the fork solid but allows movement when you hit a big bump. the only type of lockout that is completely rigid is the mechanical lock type which is a little bit like locking a door these are only on cheapo forks and are about as much use as a square wheel ,if you forget to unlock these types of fork and you hit a big bump somethings going to give and you had better hope its the fork and not your wrists. You should only be using your lockout on smooth tarmac if you use it offroad whilst climbing for example any bumps you hit will slow you down even make you stall if you are using the lockout because the fork is bouncing too much you need to change your spring or put some more air in

alprod

Cheers for the replies guys.

S_J_P, how do you get it to fully lock out at any point? When i turn the knob fully clockwise, as it says in the manual i get at least 50mm travel.

The Big Cheese

andrew156 wrote:

Cheesey wrote:

when locked out, a fork doesnt become a rigid fork. Either at £100 or £700.

the 10mm buffer is there to protect the fork from damage when locked out. You actually need that 10mm play.

Your forks are locking out - but they (or any others) don't turn into 100% rigid.

Hope this helps.

My RC39 C-Types must be broken then...

Theres ALWAYS one!

topo

My forks (marzocchi 55) have lock out and still move after the lockout is put on. It is normal and something you should welcome. I use the lockout when climbing roads etc to get to my trails and say you hit a pot hole or a bumpy section with lockout still on. It is going to damage your forks if it is locked out. When pedalling it is as though you a fully rigid forks but theres a slight give just to give it a margin to move so as not to damage the fork.