DIY respray
I use a R300 Raleigh road bike for commuting. Although it's nowhere near top of the range, with its carbon forks, Tiagra groupset and lightish frame, it suits me fine. However, over the years, the decals/transfers are peeling off, there's a few chips/scratches and overall it looks a bit tatty.
When it turns a bit warmer, I was thinking of spraying the frame. I'd give it a good clean, take off everything I could and use masking tape on the rest. Then a base/prime coat, 2/3 top coats and finally 2/3 coats of some sort of varnish/lacquer.
Has anyone ever tried anything like this? What I'd like to know is, is it worth it or will the end result look worse than it does now?
I know the answer is forget it and get a new bike, but that's not an option (at the moment).
When it turns a bit warmer, I was thinking of spraying the frame. I'd give it a good clean, take off everything I could and use masking tape on the rest. Then a base/prime coat, 2/3 top coats and finally 2/3 coats of some sort of varnish/lacquer.
Has anyone ever tried anything like this? What I'd like to know is, is it worth it or will the end result look worse than it does now?
I know the answer is forget it and get a new bike, but that's not an option (at the moment).
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Hi P O Paul,
I did exactly what you propose to an old Coventry Eagle I was commuting on a good few years back. I rubbed the frame and forks down by hand, filled a small dent, then primed and sprayed top coat using cans. The end result, although not to professional standards, looked good and served me well until some scumbag nicked the bike from my shed a couple of years later.
Its an easy enough project, but make sure you don't miss any bits when spraying. It's surprisingly easy to do that.
Big word of warning though. Don't try to rub down or spray carbon bits. That's a professional's job. Carbon is very sensitive to chemicals and will de-laminate with ordinary paint. Rubbing it down will destroy your fingers and lungs.Perpetuating the myth that Lincolnshire is flat.0 -
I did this years ago on old 531 tubing. It took an age to rub down the frame - if it is an option, I would recommend outsourcing this part! When it comes to spraying, it needs to be done in an completely dust-free environment. You would be surprised by the impact of spec or two of dust on overall aesthetics. The laquer part is important - glad that you included it.
Good luck0 -
You could always use Nitromors to remove the paint but you need to make sure that the frame is completely cleaned afterwards. I stripped a steel frame this way years ago but the sprayshop still wanted me to get it blasted. (If you do get it blasted, make sure the guy knows exactly how thin the steel is (< 1mm). I've never had problems but I know of someone who had a frame ruined by a combination of overzealousness and the wrong grit)'This week I 'ave been mostly been climbing like Basso - Shirley Basso.'0
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I have resprayed a few times with Smoothrite. Seems to work ok as long as it is warm enough. I have never bothered with a laquer coat. What would you recommend for this?
My LBS offers sand blasting and re-spray for 40GBP, 50 if its shiny (ie silver). When you factor this into the equation, it's hardly worth it as the paint is about 10quid a can and then theres sandpaper etc.0 -
Before you start, cost out how much you will spend on ALL the materials, including Nitromors (which with care does work well) sandpapers, primers, topcoats & laquer.
I bet you find it would be more cost effective to have it done professionally.
it is nice to strip the bike down and replace all the bearings and things, but a proper paint finish is hard. And the overspray goes everywhere.0 -
I did a spray job a few weeks ago
Use Nitromors to remove all the paint don't sand it down its too messy, when its all removed rub it down with a medium wet/dry sanding block.
If you have a out washing line its a good idea to hang it on that with some string so you can go round the bike full circle. Mask tape off all the parts you arnet taking off then apply a few coats of primer and give it a light rub down with very fine wet n dry paper,once done you can then apply the top coats with a clear lacquer finish.
It cost me about £20 for the finishing stuff from Halfords and a good few hours of time, just make sure you do it out side away from everyone and put on a mask and go easy on the spay incase you get any runs thats about the worst thing that can go wrong.
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To be honest - I'd go for a pro job. Whats it gonna be ? £60 or so ? Fantastic finish - the bike will look completely new and you save hours of work. If money is tight - then work out how lmany hours you would have spent rubbing down and spraying, and get bar work or something just for a week or so.0
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I've resprayed two frames in the past because at the time I could't afford to have it done professionally. It took flipping hours to rub down and fill and rub down and prime and rub down groan. With the cost of the materials it really isn't worth it.
Argos are very reasonable I hear and they arrange collection/delivery too
Spend the 5-6 hours doing some overtime to pay for it instead lol0 -
I agree with the last two posters
I sprayed a frame a few years back, the finish was OK but not great and it certainly wasnt worth the time, hastle or cost.
Its surprisingly difficult to get a good finish and avoid runs because of the complex shape of the frame. Also you might need to go to a bike shop to have threads chased and seat tube reamed.
Get it done proffesionaly.0 -
Where can you get it sprayed proffesionally then?0
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Gerry Attrick wrote:Big word of warning though. Don't try to rub down or spray carbon bits. That's a professional's job. Carbon is very sensitive to chemicals and will de-laminate with ordinary paint. Rubbing it down will destroy your fingers and lungs.
Also, if using Nitromors or similar to remove paint from the metal frame, keep it well away from the carbon forks as the solvents in the paint stripper will also damage the lamination of the carbon fibre.
David"It is not enough merely to win; others must lose." - Gore Vidal0