FOx Float RL 120 on Stumpy fsr comp

sciencegeek

Dear clever tech people,

I have notice that i have to clamp my front wheel tortuously tight to prevent the whole wheel from rocking to the left (disk side) under braking. Seems like the space between fork legs is more than than the width of the wheel, cone to cone..The QR level cam even lets go a little when you fully close it, duh! Parts are all standard Spesh issue on FSR 120 medium from about 2006 (?)....what a bike!

The pressure needed seems a bit excessive, almost too much to undo at home, practically impossible on a cold trail. Happen to know if i can fix it?

Also, my brakes (again, standard Juicy fives) rub on the rotors, no dings or buckle, just constant mild rub...can that also be fixed? or is it a trait as someone told me?

Thanks

supersonic

When you close a QR, force is slightly reduced as its fully closed - this helps them stop flipping open.

Is the hub spaced properly? Should be 100mm accross the locknuts. What are the hubs? And QR skewers?

sciencegeek

Thanks for that, makes sense!

Standard Specialised hub on front, can't really measure it with a ruler! Fork gap is almost exactly as you state, 101mm. Just doing hub width now, using skewers...you still there?

sciencegeek

Yep, hub measures 100 mm. Weird!

supersonic

I live here mate ;-)

This rockin sensation could of cousre be unassociated with the QR tension, and may be loose cones (check hub adjustnent) or even simple fork and wheel flex.

sciencegeek

Took so long because i have just stopped my disk brakes from dragging and i'm really chuffed with my self! Got the Avid 5 manual online and amazingly, following instructions works...doesn't come natural for a bloke like me who rips it out the box and figures it out later!

sciencegeek

Checked cones, one is finger tight (i have strong fingers!) other is solid, no spanner in the office to undo it but of course no purchase either as the other is going to come loose first. Surely couldn't be enough to cause the rock...it's not normal wheel/fork movement either, sorry.

sciencegeek

My girlfriend wants to know if that's a character from Stop it and Tidy up! or The Trapdoor?

supersonic

Its Berk from Trap door! "Ello"!

The cones should be locked against the locknuts using a cone spanner and suitably sized spanner for the locknut (usually a 15 or 17mm, with the cone being 13mm). It should not move in your fingers! Shuuld be locked solidly together, maintaining hub bearing adjustment.

sciencegeek

Oh!

Well thanks for your wisdom, you really are very helpful. I will sort some shiny metal tightening equipment out and do it soon, but now it's time for bed... :shock: g'night.

Davey Sprocket

Hi guys,

Sorry I know this is kinda a bit late as your last post was nearly a week ago but I have had exactly the same issue with the same bike and forks.

I never have really sussed this one out.
my bearings are not loose but unless the QR is done up stupidly tight, the front wheel rocks side to side, like loads.
And I'm not talking a little bit of play like you'd get from a loose wheel bearing, it moves nearly half inch side to side.

The bike is largely laid up for the winter now (s/s hardtail takes the winter punishment) but I would like to resolve this when I get the stumpy back out in anger.

Sciencegeek...did you resolve yours???
I'd swear its not the front hub bearing at fault on mine.

sciencegeek

i haven't resolved it yet. You probably read that my cone needed tweaking? i don't have a cone spanner (Read: I don't have a cone, spanner!) yet so i'll post you if i get it done and it fixes it, but as you have the same issue it's probably not going to.

And while someone is listening, yeah it's not like a little bit of rocking that you might get from a loose head set before they were all A-head sets, it's proper half-inch travel from centre to left, not the knd of suspension i ordered.

Thanks for getting on board, thought i might be alone here in cyberspace (Do they still call it that?) with my problem. Bike rips otherwise!

Science...