Grating rear suspension

ImprezaRob

I was cleaning my bike yesterday as it got uber dirty on a ride Monday afternoon, and after I finished I was lubing it up when I noticed a gritty, graty, grinding noise in the initial stroke of the rear suspension - it only happens in the first few mm's of the travel and that's it - I sprayed a bit of WD40 in all the pivot points to try and drive it out, left it a couple of hours, but it's still doing it!!

It's not a major deal, but I HATE noises on my bike that arent supposed to be there. The bike's around 18 months old now, and I'm wandering if the pivot's need a strip and re-grease?

nicklouse

dont just spray it. as all you will do is wash any lube out.

get the shock out and clean and lube up the pivots as needed.

Anonymous

ImprezaRob wrote:

I sprayed a bit of WD40 in all the pivot points to try and drive it out, left it a couple of hours, but it's still doing it!!

WD-40 is not a lubricant, regardless of what you may think. Spray it on your thumb and forefinger on one hand, then some sort of oil (I use Finish Line Teflon based non hydrocarbon lube) on the other hand. Rub them till the WD-40 no longer works. Took about 10 seconds, right.
I'm just guessing, but I'm sure you have contaminated the lube points and broken down the lube that is in the shock.
For my buck/pound/quid, white lithium grease is the goody.
http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/household/wd-40.asp
WD-40='W'ater 'D'isplacement formula '40.'

ImprezaRob

Yeah, I've only sprayed the WD40 in once - I thought it would disperce the grit that was inside.

I'm gonna have a go at greasing it up tonight

Anonymous

You'll need to open it. Could be testy. Clean any rubber seals with soap and water, nothing else. DO NOT use lacquer thinner on anything rubber, ever. They swell to huge sizes. It's great for metal, especially virgin thinner. It leaves nothing behind, and wear examination gloves. That stuff will go right into your body through your skin. Bad for the liver.
I had to lube a Cane Creek AD-10 a while back, so I've had my hands in it.
Point is, if there is no reccomended lube by the mfg., white lithium will work.

DO NOT use A-1 oil, WD-40, or any other household off the shelf lube. 'Matter of fact, stay away from any hydrocarbon formulas.

ImprezaRob

Blimey - this sounds a bit too intense for my novice hands! I'll ask the LBS to do it tomorrow!!

Cheers!

cunning-stunt

bikers46 wrote:

WD-40 is not a lubricant
http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/household/wd-40.asp

That list sure does mention lots of things WD40 will 'lubricate'??

bikers46 wrote:

white lithium grease is the goody.

Lithium based grease dries out and cakes up,far better off with a teflon based variety.

Anonymous

Yes, it does lube a lot of stuff, for a short while. It doesn't lube anything I would want to use it on, although It makes a great scum buster in a lot of cases. It beaks down and dries out really fast compared to, as you said and I prefer, a teflon or silicon based product.

I refuse to use hydrocarbon products on my rig when I can help it. In some cases, one can't get around it.

As far as the lithium build up, it cakes in external applications in 99% of the applications. Inside of a shock it rules, as well as bearing lube.

Anonymous

I forgot to add, I DO use hydrocarbons to cook with. Can't beat that crankcase tartness.

Anonymous

Red lithium is good, also, although it tends to liquify under heat at a much lower pressure than white.