Hex Head Screw

steelo
steelo Posts: 542
edited December 2007 in MTB workshop & tech
I secured my Hope Fision LED light onto my handlebars last night after cleaning it in preparation for tonights ride. However, as I tightened the clamp I realised the hex key (allen key) was turning in the head of the screw. Fortunately the screw is tight enough for the clamp not to spin on the bars but how can I remove the screw to take the lamp unit off to wash the bike safely.

I need to find a better screw for securing the clamp to the handlebars, i'm thinking about a torx head screw instead.

Whats is the best/easiest/safest way of removing a hex head screw with no bite left in it?

- Oh and by the way, the head of the screw is recessed into the clamp so I can't 'saw' a groove across the head!
Specialized Rockhopper '07
Trek Fuel EX8 '09

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    were you using the "ball" end of the allen key? if yes use the other end.

    If no smack a torx bit in and undo. or well there are other ways.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • steelo
    steelo Posts: 542
    The torx head solution sounds good, just hope it works.

    Do you know of a suitable, 'harder' material for a replacement screw? Galvanized? Stainless?
    Specialized Rockhopper '07
    Trek Fuel EX8 '09
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    does not matter. i would look to the tools.

    but as it is something that will get wet stainless. but it is no stronger.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • dave_hill
    dave_hill Posts: 3,877
    Another possible solution to the rounded out screw scenario is to use the next nearest Imperial sized allen key in the head - you might have to give it a bit of a tap with a number 1 persuading stick (hammer in non-engineering terms) but it usually works.

    Torx screws are a ball-ache. I wouldn't bother - they round out far more easily than a socket head allen screw.

    As far as alternative materials go, stainless screws are actually weaker than high-tensile mild steel, but as this one isn't bearing any load you shouldn't have a problem. Zinc or Cadmium plated or blackened screws often go rusty/furry at the first sign of moisture. The absolute mutts nuts is titanium or even ceramic but at £5 a screw for titanium or £12 upwards for ceramic...

    If you'll PM me I'll stick a bag in the post to you with a selection of stainless screws which may help.
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  • steelo
    steelo Posts: 542
    Thanks for the advice.

    Thanks also for the offer of the replacement screws but I have an ex-colleague who can do the same.

    £12 for a ceramic screw, maybe i'll give that a thought... enough thinking, bit pricey for me!
    Specialized Rockhopper '07
    Trek Fuel EX8 '09