Trail riding position and top-tube length
Airmiles
Posts: 101
A long time ago, before I became a roadie, and we all rode hardtail MTBs with handlebars 2-3 inches below our saddle height, ~565mm was the correct effective top-tube length for me to be able to easily lift the front wheel, move my weight around effectively, hang off the back on drops etc. etc. 580mm was DEFINITELY too long. (I know, I bought one that size.. long story!!!)
But now that "trail" bikes have their handlebars level with the saddle, that's exactly the size the manufacturers recommend for me (at 169cm or 5'6 1/2) e.g. Orange 5 16", Yeti 575 Small, Marin Mount Vision Small.
Why? Is it just the higher bars? Or something to do with weighting the bike in a different way when it's full suss? Or the slacker angles? I'm discounting stem length as I already run a 65mm stem....
It doesn't help that 565/570 is exactly the size all manufacturers ignore because they're trying to get away with just a "small" to cover what should really be a separate S and XS....
But now that "trail" bikes have their handlebars level with the saddle, that's exactly the size the manufacturers recommend for me (at 169cm or 5'6 1/2) e.g. Orange 5 16", Yeti 575 Small, Marin Mount Vision Small.
Why? Is it just the higher bars? Or something to do with weighting the bike in a different way when it's full suss? Or the slacker angles? I'm discounting stem length as I already run a 65mm stem....
It doesn't help that 565/570 is exactly the size all manufacturers ignore because they're trying to get away with just a "small" to cover what should really be a separate S and XS....
I'm not saying pedestrians in Hackney are stupid.. but a fixed bayonet would be more use than a fixed gear...
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