shimano R600, 105 or ultegra compact ?

oldwelshman

Ok all you techies.
I have a winter bike, ribble 853, with a mixture of dura ace and 105 on it, but have some strange eliptical chainset which has damaged thread in crank for crank removal and I have a clicking BB so guess it is time to change.
I am looking at putting a compact on it so I might ride it in some sportives with silly hills, instead of my race bike.
Question:
I have seen R600 compact for £53 which is obviously older than the newer 105 and ultegra compacts which are £80+.

Do you think it is better to go for the older type for £53 or splash out a bit more for the newer ones?
What benefit do I get for the increase cost other than the latest compact?

SDP

R600 is fine but you have already been warned about davehinde cycles...

if its important go to LBS & have a look at one...

for winter tiagra/105 is fine...i would have frame faced up tho if you not used outboard bearings before & also upgrade to ultegra the cups as the sealing is better..

you also need two new tools to install these C.sets

Monty Dog

R600 is Shimanos 6000 series and is therefore the same quality as Ultegra - 105 is 5000 series and Tiagra is 4000 series. TBH differences are probably only cosmetic anyway.

kilo

This summer I fitted a Tiagra compact on a second bike and can't really tell the difference between it and the much more expensive Shimano compact on my good bike. If memory serves me right I bought the FC4550, which Parker are selling for £34.

oldwelshman

SDP wrote:

R600 is fine but you have already been warned about davehinde cycles...

if its important go to LBS & have a look at one...

for winter tiagra/105 is fine...i would have frame faced up tho if you not used outboard bearings before & also upgrade to ultegra the cups as the sealing is better..

you also need two new tools to install these C.sets

I will try to get a look before I uy, probably from Parker.
Silly question, what do you mean 2get frame faced up"?

I looked at pic and thought I have the correct wplined tool to inert, but was told a standard C spnner will also do?

alfablue

With the external bearing cups on Hollowtech BB/cranks, they sit on the outside of the bottom bracket shell. This needs to be absolutely parallel so that the bearings are not stressed. Unless the BB shell is already perfect (and if it is painted it is unlikely to be) then it requires "facing" - i.e. the faces are cut true. The LBS can do this with this (very expensive) tool



My LBS did this for a tenner.

oldwelshman

Think I will go for the r600.
Will see if LBS can face my bb shell.

kilo

I looked at pic and thought I have the correct wplined tool to inert, but was told a standard C spnner will also do?[/quote]


I went and bought the correct tool, it wasn't particuarly expensive and made the job very easy. I'm not sure a c spanner will give a good enough purchase, especially when you come to remove the cups. Also (unfortunately I don't have my bike with me at the moment bit I'm sure you can check this), I believe on the shimano non drive side crank there is a small plastic bolt with a recessed splined hole that needs to be fitted and the adapter for this is fitted on the end of the correct fitting tool .

alfablue

This is the correct tool for £9.99, Park Tools do one for about £15 (as Kilo says, the tool has both the cup spanner and the splined part to do the crank caps), or Shimano sell two seperate tools to do the same job.

oldwelshman

thanks