New commuting bike, road or hybrid?

MB Robster

Hi all, I've just discovered the BikeRadar forums and you guys seem like a nice enough crowd to pester with questions

I've just decided to commute the 9 miles into work on a bike and after spending the first week on my MTB (with road tyres) to see if I could cope, I'm now never going back to the crowded tube. However, lugging front suspension, a heavy frame and large disc brakes around isn't much fun so I'm up for spending my Travelcard money on something better suited. However, I'm unsure whether to go for a fast hybrid (e.g. the Boardman Hybrid Comp) or a racer.

The reason for my dilema is that I also want to train for triathlons next year, so if I could use the same bike that I commute on as my triathlon bike I can save buying and storing an extra bike. That swings it in favour of a racer, but with our beautiful winter conditions (i.e. rain, rain and more rain), I want some mudgards so that I don't end up with a soaking back and/or feet every day. Being a mountain biker, I don't know if you can fit 'guards to a racer (e.g. Trek SL1000, Boardman Road comp).

So, what bike is out there that can have mudguards fitted, do the commute and be ridden in a triathlon (i.e. a racer type) and costs around £500? Or am I simply asking too much?

Thanks,

Rob

spasypaddy

you could either buy a road bike with guard mounts or buy a set of sks raceblades.
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/details.a ... SAMUDR0250

i would recommend a road bike personally as thats what i ride

John the Monkey

Giant's SCR series can have guards fitted, as I recall (certainly the SCR 2 and 3 can in any case). The Edinburgh Bike Co-op's own brand road bikes can too (on account of being designed in sunny Scotland )

Best bet is to ask/look at the specs. On the bikes themselves you'll usually see eyelets on the front fork and rear seat stays if guards/racks can be fitted.

Secret option number two is to use a clip on type, like SKS Raceguards - they're not as protective as a traditional full guard though.

homercles

Quite a few road bikes in the £500 or so range have eyelets for the bits and pieces - I guess manufacturers realise at this price point people are looking for convenience as much as performance. Certainly last year's Allez and last year's Trek 1000 had them. I'd say go road bike.

Down the Road

at 9 miles it is a borderline choice. Roadie will be faster but less manouverable in traffic. Hybrid the opposite.

Go into a store and ask to test both get the one you feel is best suited.

I usually use a hybrid as it is more comfortable in traffic and the heads up position lets me see whats going on better

MB Robster

Thanks for the tips. I'm going shopping on Saturday for a new bike so I'll try them both out then. I'd not seen those Raceguards before, definitely an interesting option to consider! I'm leaning towards a road bike at the moment as I'd rather spend £500 on one bike for both than have to buy a racer plus a bike to commute on.

cupofteacp

My penny's worth is that if you're used to riding an MTB, stick with straight bars, rather than drop.

It sounds like you're going to be commuting in London and therefore mixing with allot of traffic, and I “feel” straight bars will be better for you. You can still get a road bike but have fitted a straight bar.

I used to MTB race and now commute; earlier this year I completed in my first ever Triathlon, using my old race MTB with the skinniest tyres I could find, I came 110th out of 366 riders

Good luck with the Triathlon training. I found the hardest part was the swim across the lake, it felt like I trapped in a washing machine.

jedster

at 9 miles it is a borderline choice. Roadie will be faster but less manouverable in traffic

I agree with this. Given that you think you want a roadbike anyway then I'd go with the roadbike now. I would look for something with proper mudguard mounts - proper guards are more effective than race blades. If you do a search on "ribble winter trainer" you'll see a good example for about £500.

How much of your ride will be really urban with dense traffic? If it's only a mile or two then I wouldn't consider a hybrid. Drops are really nice on open roads.

DavidTQ

Big vote for the road bike here, having tried both hybrid and road bikes. I do 7 miles each way, I started on a hybrid and quickly moved over to road bike and havent looked back since. A good roadbike makes the cycling far easier and faster. I travel down a lot of heavy traffic roads and love the road bikes speed, I can choose to use the cycle lane where its safe enough or overtake down the outside of the queued cagers like the motorbikes .

I had never had a "racer" as a kid I was big on bmx's then MTB's so I didnt think I would like drop bars, but my first trip on a road bike convinced me that drop bars are far more comfortable than straight bars even with bar ends. On a road bike you can alter your hand position so much, the road bike completely eliminated the wrist problems I had on my hybrid.

For all the talk of comfort from hybrids \ MTB over road bikes my Giant SCR is FAR more comfortable than my Dawes discovery hybrid. The Giant SCR is designed to be comfortable with its curved back stays carbone forks and on the SCR1 the carbon seat post, I dont know which of it all makes the most difference but the Giant SCR really did just fit like a glove from the first time I sat on one.

I dont have any issues with manouvreability but then I dont find myself having to make 90o turns on the spot or making many sudden course changes, I tend to find all my riding smooth and planned, but then Im mainly on major roads rather than running through small housing estates etc.

The Giant SCR 1 2+3 all take guards and panniers. IVe got the SCR 1 lovelly bike I picked it up for £600 online.

MB Robster

Thanks again. CoT, I did Blenheim on my MTB last year and got fed up with maxing out at 35 on the downhills and still being passed by everyone hence wanting a proper racer for the tri. Funnily enough, the swim was the easiest bit, I beat my fastest training time by 2 minutes and finished in the top 1/3. Shame the ride and run let me down!

I've ridden racers before, starting pretty young though its been around 10 years since I was last one one but I'm not expecting any major hassles adapting to the drop bars.

My commute is Wimbledon to the City, though not through that much heavy traffic. Its mostly on bus lanes and the Embankment so for a cyclist its pretty free flowing. So far I've been doing it in around 38 minutes on the computer (ignoring stops) and I want to get that below 30 with a bit of training so perhaps the racer is the way to go. Thanks for the tip on the Ribble, I'll do some more digging.

ddoogie

I just picked up a Boardman Hybrid Comp yesterday and it will be put through its first commute in a wee while. Had a quick blast round campus and it seems v fast compared to other hybrids I've tried. Much lighter than usual as well.

misterben

Do "touring" bikes differ from "racing" bikes in geometry at all? I know they come with a load more braze-ons for racks/mudguards, but I was wondering what the other differences were.

(I'm hoping to upgrade to a road bike from an old MTB too, soon)

homercles

MB Robster wrote:

My commute is Wimbledon to the City, though not through that much heavy traffic. Its mostly on bus lanes and the Embankment so for a cyclist its pretty free flowing. So far I've been doing it in around 38 minutes on the computer (ignoring stops) and I want to get that below 30 with a bit of training so perhaps the racer is the way to go. Thanks for the tip on the Ribble, I'll do some more digging.

This is similar to my current goal - I commute from Colliers Wood to just north of the city and have managed it in just over 31m on my slick-shod MTB in good conditions (a couple of times). Ordering the new roadie next Weds and hoping sub-30m will be well in range come some decent weather.

MB Robster

Well, new racer is on order and I'll be picking it up next week. Thanks for all of the help gang.

rich r

I'm currently having exactly the same debate - want something better than my MTB for the work commute, but also want to do tri's.

I think I'm going to end up with the Boardman Comp Hybrid on Cycle to Work, and try to find a second hand racer as well.

Having never ridden a racer further than a few hundred yards, I'm not really sure I want to learn the 700c trade riding in heavy traffic.

simon_e

rich r wrote:

I'm currently having exactly the same debate - want something better than my MTB for the work commute, but also want to do tri's.

I think I'm going to end up with the Boardman Comp Hybrid on Cycle to Work, and try to find a second hand racer as well.

Having never ridden a racer further than a few hundred yards, I'm not really sure I want to learn the 700c trade riding in heavy traffic.

As others have said further up this thread, don't spend your (or your company's) cash without riding, or at least sitting on some bikes. It can make all the difference!

DavidTQ

rich r wrote:

I'm currently having exactly the same debate - want something better than my MTB for the work commute, but also want to do tri's.

I think I'm going to end up with the Boardman Comp Hybrid on Cycle to Work, and try to find a second hand racer as well.

Having never ridden a racer further than a few hundred yards, I'm not really sure I want to learn the 700c trade riding in heavy traffic.

Seriously find a friend with a decent road bike or try one out at least in the shop etc, Theres really nothing to learn, It simply goes faster and easier than a hybrid. If you are a competent rider on a mountain bike theres no reason you wont be competent enough on a road bike. I would have thought 5 minutes on streets near your home would be all you need to familiarise yourself with how it all feels.

Despite having never ridden a road bike in my life and coming from a background many years ago of bmx and mountain bikes then a long break etc 2 months of hybrid cycling and I had no issues whatsoever making the change. It was ALL positive in the step up from hybrid to road bike, theres not one thing I would want to go back for.

Youve really got to give one a go to see how they go.

jefferee

misterben wrote:

Do "touring" bikes differ from "racing" bikes in geometry at all? I know they come with a load more braze-ons for racks/mudguards, but I was wondering what the other differences were.

(I'm hoping to upgrade to a road bike from an old MTB too, soon)

I'm doing the same--looking for a commute bike that I can also use on some centuries I want to do next summer.

I talked to a reasonably knowledgeable LBS employee on Saturday. He said that compared to racers, tourers tend to have:
-Longer wheelbase, for stability under load. This makes them sluggish in traffic compared even to drop-bar 'racer' bikes.
-Front geometry designed for carrying loads in front panniers. Again, this contributes to some sluggishness compared to a racer.
-Larger fender clearance and abundant braze-ons for fenders, racks, and the like.
-Slightly lower (easier) gearing. Generally a compact double or hybrid triple on the front. Depending on your cadence this could leave you a little slower than the 'roadies' in your chain gang.

Apparently, cyclocross bikes tend to have similar geometry and components to tourers (with less fender clearance than tourers, but still more than roadies) and start at around the same price.

rich r

This is all getting horrendously confusing.

I now need to find a

1) Road bike, as you folks think it'll be no problem in traffic
2) With attachments for Panniers, as I need to carry stuff
and
3) With low enough gearing to mean I can do my ride comfortably (I use the tope and middle chain rings on my MTB, never the granny on the way to work)
that is
4) OK with panniers (just stuff like laptop, light files, lunch etc).

All by next week when I have to work out how much to buy in cycle to work voucers.

I feel a trip coming on....

neslon

the mistake you are making is thinking that one bike will do it all. YOU CANNOT HAVE TOO MANY BIKES!
Seriously, I was spending a tank of petrol a week when I last used a car for a commute. After 7 years on the bike, I've saved enough to buy any bike I want, anytime. (only problem is, I'm too mean & the keep on going. The only way forward is to have my kids grow tall enough to have my old bikes, so I can buy new ones)

afelstead

MB Robster: I do a similar commute on the Embankment every day and use a road bike. I actually find a road bike easier to manouvre. The drops are great, and of course I can take it off to Richmond Pk on the weekends.

I know I have just lost it to thieving scum, but my Racelight Tk in light blue served me well for a year or so. Mounts for guards and rack, and long-drop brakes for extra clearance. Very fast and a great racer / training bike at the weekends. I built my own, but some shops sell them as complete bikes. Either that or (as mentioned before) the Ribble looks pretty good.

MB Robster

Thanks again. I've gone for a proper racer and I'll then get a set of the Race guards to keep me dry(ish). The next question will be how to make a brand new, expensive bike look unatractive to the tea leaves without permanently trashing it. Time to get some insulating tape out I think

Gambatte

MB Robster wrote:

Thanks again. I've gone for a proper racer and I'll then get a set of the Race guards to keep me dry(ish). The next question will be how to make a brand new, expensive bike look unatractive to the tea leaves without permanently trashing it. Time to get some insulating tape out I think

3M Diamond grade tape, serves 2 purposes!

MB Robster

Well, I picked up my Boardman Road Comp on Saturday and road home from Twikenham. All was good but I'm definitely less confident with the brakes, especially having gone from 209mm disks on the MTB to rim brakes on the roadie. Still, corners are now much faster and it flies up hills. Did the first commute on it today and immediately took 1.5 minutes off my time with plenty more to come once I get my fitness up. Sub 30 mins is the way forwards!

Thanks for everyone's advice. I'm sure my next post will be about help getting some Marathon + onto the rims. Already had 1 puncture on it so may be after some better tyres soon :shock:

DavidTQ

MB Robster wrote:

Well, I picked up my Boardman Road Comp on Saturday and road home from Twikenham. All was good but I'm definitely less confident with the brakes, especially having gone from 209mm disks on the MTB to rim brakes on the roadie. Still, corners are now much faster and it flies up hills. Did the first commute on it today and immediately took 1.5 minutes off my time with plenty more to come once I get my fitness up. Sub 30 mins is the way forwards!

Thanks for everyone's advice. I'm sure my next post will be about help getting some Marathon + onto the rims. Already had 1 puncture on it so may be after some better tyres soon :shock:

What brakes and pads have you got on that bike? My road bike has got 105 brakes and shimano pads, I find it better than the V brakes on the old hybrid by quite a margin. But have never ridden a disk braked bike to compare. Its likely that some decent high end pads would be an improvement over my stock pads.

Also not wishing to teach grandma to suck eggs but have you checked the brake adjustment, Ive seen some really bad adjustment jobs from some places... I like to run my pads about 1-2mm from the rim

BentMikey

Rim brakes are effectively very large disk brakes, LOL!

I think you probably get slightly better modulation with discs, but you should still be able to take it to a stoppie in the dry with road brakes.

MB Robster

Not sure what pads they are but the brakes are Tektra R720's. The adjustment out of the shop was a little lacking so I've increased the tension a little and that's improved things. I can lock the rear but the front is definitely lacking a little bite. Its due a service in a few weeks and I'll get them to look at it then, along with the noise from the front mech when in the bottom 4 gears on the back. Nothing serious but it needs a little adjusting.

Overall though, so far so good. And I've managed to get one of the hard-to-come-by spots in the secure bike parking here. Bring on the rest of winter...

DavidTQ

Somethings a bit odd if you cant lock the front, in the dry on my bike I can pull an endo if I grab a handfull of brake without due care In the wet my front brakes would lock up if I wasnt very carefull about how I apply my brakes.

Have you checked the pad is running 100% on the braking surface of the rim, if the pad is slightly misaligned you can get a fair reduction in braking efficiency.

Im not sure on the tektro line but arent the R720's part of their decent range? Im sure once youve got it all sorted you will have no complaints about the efficiency of those brakes