hello folks..newbie advice required..

bluenose2

Hello peeps,
newbie to the group...hope I have this in the right bit but I am keen to get into mountain biking but slightly short of brass due to chrimbo coming up....now I have seen a bike I like and I would like your pro opinions on it...( I only have £250 spare) I would use it for work and knocking about the woods on a weekend...but I want to get into off roading eventually so this bike would settle me in and build me up..
the bike is called a Cross sprinter SE....they look the part etc....

your thoughts are welcomed.. :P

thanks

Dan.hkr

hi and welcome to the group.

as im sure many people will say, stay clear off that bike!!!!
at that price range their isnt a great choice of things that wil stand up to any kind of riding,

id definatley go for a carrera vulcan at £224 from halfords online this is in your budget and has had great reviews!

hope this helps chap

Dan

bluenose2

thats thrown a spanner in the works ...I hadnt actually seen it in the flesh so to speak and only going off the pics it looked the part...but having had a look at the vulcan I quite like the look of it but I notice from halfords there was no 21" frame...only 20 or 22..so where does that leave me?...I have always had a 21" frame on a bike...
and incidentley what exactly is it thats wrong with that sprinter se ?...are there some reviews on here about it ?

thanks again..

supersonic

The sprinter is form over function - very heavy and rides harshly with poor parts.

For size you need to try the bike out first. Go to a good shop and see whats what. Also read the What Bike thread.

cunning-stunt

Hi fella,i've had a look at the bike you mention and it does look ok visually,but..

Bikes in that price bracket usually fall apart at the first sign of anything rougher than towpaths and commuting.
The price may appeal initially but you'll ending splashing out a lot more on parts that break.
Also,the suspension is probably going to be abysmal...most half decent forks cost more than the RRP of that bike.

If you just want it as an entry to mountain biking then it may well serve you for a little while,but personally I'd look around for a secondhand bargain.

There's several hardtails around the £500/£550 mark that you should get for £250 secondhand,and the componentry on those will do the job without breaking

dan1983

You say that your budget is low due to xmas coming up, so why not buy a bike on a buy now pay later scheme? Wiggle (www.wiggle.co.uk) do one with 0% finance for a year (you have to pay a 10% deposit i seem to think). This would mean you could save the £250 you've got now and save a bit every month to get a better bike.

Thats what I did.

stumpyjon

I can't really advise you on specific bike but you really do need to sit on and preferably ride a bike before buying. Don't worry too much about the frame sizing, it's a bit like clothes, each bike may nominally be the same size but the way it is set up can make quite a difference to the ft.

Best thing to do is go into some of the your local bike shops, e.g. Ride On in Rawtenstall or Leisure Lakes in Bury. Be honest, tell them you don't know what you want bikewise but that you want an entry level hardtail that will get you into off road riding with the option of upgrading into the future (i.e. you want a good frame to start with, everything else can be replaced over time).

Don't get phased by all the £ 2k bikes on sale these shops will still help if you are honest and listen to their advice.

Look at it another way, you could get a great deal off the net but it may be a dog of a bike or the wrong size. either way it will put you off riding for good.

Don't make a snap decision, you can always look for reviews of any bikes recommended on this site or through google and if you want a second opinion there's always someone on here who will try and help.

Good luck and happy hunting. Let us know how you get on.

supersonic

Here's one I made earlier:

One of the most common questions from beginners on a budget is 'how much shall I spend' or 'what is the minimum I should be looking at'? The componentry levels on bikes are often confusing to many, where certain parts can look very similar from one to another but yet can have a big impact on performance and longevity. The most important factor is fit and comfort which is where testing comes in, but this does not always give a full picture of the bike and how it may last.

I think for general mountain biking, the following features should be considered: (aimed at buyers spending less than 250 quid)

- Alloy hardtail frame. Full suspension at the lower end of the market (sub 300 and even upto 500 quid) is heavily compromised. Its very heavy, undamped, poor bearings and pulls down the spec elsewhere. Steel frames at this level are often mild steel and are 2 or 3 pounds heavier than an alloy frame.

- Suspension fork with alloy crown and one piece lowers. Cheap pressed steel lowers and crowns flex badly. Preload adjusters are a good feature to help set sag and ride height for differing weights.

- Compact crankset (42/32/22). Many entry level bikes have larger chainrings (48/38/2 from cheaper groupsets. This doesn't allow a very low gear and is often over geared for the terrain a MTB will be used on. Replacable chainrings are a bonus.

- 8 speed freehub. 8 gears from a cassette and freehub gives a better spread than some 7spd screw on freewheels, often 11-32 teeth rather than 14-28. Also this allows the bearings to be spaced further in the hub, allowing a stronger rear wheel/axle. Shimano make the best budget 8 speed set ups.

- Cartridge bottom bracket. Old adjustable cup and cone bottom brackets are poorly sealed and are prone to coming loose.

- 32 or 36 spoked wheels. Lots of beginners MTBs are coming with fancy 'paired' spokes, or 24 bladed ones, purely for looks. They use heavy rims, are poorly constructed and are not worth it compared to standard wheels. Look for stainless spokes if possible, and sealed alloy hubs with quick release axles.

- Alloy components. If possible, ask about the seatpost and bars. Alloy units save some weight, and are more comfortable.

- Brakes and levers. Make sure the levers aren't plastic as they flex badly. Cable disc brakes stop better in the wet but usually add cost. Don't go for discs over other essential features.

- Aheadset or threadless headset. Much better bearings and more reliable than the older quill stem and threaded headset.

Many bikes for 200 pounds now have all these features! Don't be afraid to ask for a saddle swap if they are uncomfortable, and enquire about the quality of the tyres..

bluenose2

well...I dont know what to say !
firstly thanks for all the replies - theres certainley some good food for thought ...
I am going to dig through this site and get my head round a few things supersonic has posted :?

Dan.hkr

http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/ ... ulcan-8984

take a look at that link about the vulcan, honestly in my opinion its the best bike sub £250
go to your nearest halfords and have a sit on it its the same price in the shops as it is online.

the differance between the one that you have suggested and this is phenominal.

hope you have happy hunting
and would be interesting to hear what you decide on.

thanks
Dan