Removing Seized Pedals

campagsarge

I am struggling to remove some Time Impact pedals from a Campag Veloce 06 crankset. I can get the none-drive side off ok but the chainset (right side) is stuck solid!

I am turning the hex wrench counter-clockwise with all my strength but still it is stuck solid.

JWSurrey

If they have a bolt/notches for a spanner on the pedal side of the crank, get yourself a whacking great pedal spanner! (Tacx do a nice one)
It may also help to fit the next set with some grease.

When you say Hex Wrench - do you mean hex key, or hex keys built in to a 1/4 inch socket and wrench?
I bought a Hex "socket" set from Clerkenwell Screw that cost peanuts, and because it's 1/4" drive, can hook up to my big metre long "persuader" that I use for doing up the Land Rover bolts! (Usual "watch you don't twist your frame" caveats apply)

redddraggon

I had a similar problem recently....

Drench where the pedal joins the crank with WD40 or similar. Leave it to penetrate for a bit, and you come back you should be able to unscrew the pedals with less effort.

It might take a few goes with the WD40 before it'll start moving.

campagsarge

To confirm, hex keys. I put some Finish Lube on them when I installed but sadly that was not up to the job. The left one came out easily enough and has since been packed with grease when threaded back in.

OK, Redddragon, the WD40 is on so I will see how I go with that. Here's hoping!

3leggeddog

use an old toe strap to attach the opposite crank to the chainstay. this will give you a more rigid setup to wrok against

alan_sherman

Before adding brute force and buggering anything try application of heat. I use a blowtorch to heat the crankarm.

Monty Dog

Time Impacts can only be removed using a 6mm Allen key, so the spanner isn't an option. You really need to try and get more leverage - you're far better using a hex bit on a wrench than an allen key - you can get long extension handles for leverage. Halfords do a decent set of 3/8" drive hex bits for less than a tenner. For the drive side pedal, point the crank forward, fit the wrench into the pedal, again facing forward, put your left foot on the pedal and pull up hard with both hands on the wrench handle.

campagsarge

Thanks guys. I think I will be going down to Halfords and buying a hex wrench.

I eventually got the damn thing off but not in a way I would recommend. I lashed the left crank to the down tube and stood on the allen key with all my weight. The pedal then became free. Not a very safe method.

Is there a way I can stop this happening in the future? I have packed the threads on the crank and pedal with Weldite Lithium Grease in that the hope that this will help.

Pennyfarthing

pleased that you got it off. I have had two istances of stuck pedals this year.
A hot air/heat gun did the trick for me.

campagsarge

Is that safe for the cranks? I have no engineering knowledge whatsoever but would be concerned with heating the cranks - could this weaken the metal? What does applying heat do?

Welding/engineering/metals etc are not my strong point so am interested to find out more.

Pennyfarthing

If you asked me to use a blow torch, then I would agree :twisted:
I doubt you could heat the metal sufficently to cause damage unless you did something crazy with a heat gun.
You only need to apply the heat to make one metal expand quicker than the other.
Also a decent pedal spanner helps, we use one of these

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=7961

Adamskii

I had this problem a while ago.

Pedal threads come under alot of strain becasue of the nature of the joint. The problem is that usually your crank will be some from of alloy and the pedal stem with be steal. Those two froms of metal don't like to be joined so over time there will be a build up of Aluminium oxide (esentially rust). This build up basically fuses the two meatals together.

If a big spanner doesn't work there are two options.

1) Heat the crack, aluminium expands at twice the rate of steal so in theory it should seperate the joint.

2) Remove the aluminium oxide be soaking the joind in Amonia for several days! You can buy household amonia from most DIY stores.

all this didn't work for my however, I'd ridden 20,000 miles in five years with out realising that you should regualarly remove and regrease your pedals. I had to resort in buying a new crank.

redddraggon

Adamskii wrote:

Aluminium oxide (esentially rust).

Huh?

Alumina is nothing like rust, Alumina formation on Al metal is as a thin white layer, whereas rust is hydrated Iron oxide is thicker, flakier and reddish brown.

Adamskii

O.k. not 'essentially rust' in composition or appearance but in the sense that the build up of Alu oxide will have a similar effect to that of rust i.e. the deterioration of metal causing it to seize.

Hugh A

If you've been having trouble with them seizing I would be inclined to use copper grease or another type designed to prevent metal to metal contact corrosion on static items - instead of lithium grease which I think is normally for moving parts?