Turbo questions
Yes, i know, another turbo trainer thread! I'm looking to get one this weekend and I've got a few questions regarding setting up:
1. All trainers seem to come with QR skewers, presumably to prevent you mashing the originals! I've never had to change skewers- is this a simple task?
2. How tight does the roller have to be to the tyre? I understand from ones i've seen in shops that you're trying to simulate the weight of bike and rider on the road- is there a way of checking it's tight enough?
3. Doing a roll down test. I'd like to fit a rear mounted sensor- probably a Strada Cadence. Hoping i can equate turbo distances and speeds to the real world (within reason). How do i go about calibrating so i know which resistance is comparable to road riding?
Sorry to go on - would rather have idea what i'm doing before i buy. Nothing worse than owning something and not having a clue how to get started!!
Rich
1. All trainers seem to come with QR skewers, presumably to prevent you mashing the originals! I've never had to change skewers- is this a simple task?
2. How tight does the roller have to be to the tyre? I understand from ones i've seen in shops that you're trying to simulate the weight of bike and rider on the road- is there a way of checking it's tight enough?
3. Doing a roll down test. I'd like to fit a rear mounted sensor- probably a Strada Cadence. Hoping i can equate turbo distances and speeds to the real world (within reason). How do i go about calibrating so i know which resistance is comparable to road riding?
Sorry to go on - would rather have idea what i'm doing before i buy. Nothing worse than owning something and not having a clue how to get started!!
Rich
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Comments
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Changing QRs is easy - leave the wheel in situ - unscrew the end, withdraw the old one and fit the new one. If you're using the turbo regularly, you may as well leave it in situ. The roller needs to be firm enough to prevent slippage but not too tight such that you can't get a smooth feel - often through trial and error. Some models with electronic brake control allow you to calibrate the unit. Speed and sistance is no problem - what you can't account for is wind resistance - which is over 80% of effort when on the road, so don't equate miles on the road with miles on the turbo.Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..0
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You will need a fan though Richie G as you will sweat buckets.0
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with regards to "real world" speeds - buy a fluid trainer which increase resistance in a similar way to air resistance (i.e a square of speed). I've been "calibrating" the fluid2 i have just bought and its not that far away in terns of effort and speed as if I was riding on a track.0
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Steve, how are you getting on with your fluid2? I missed your question in the previous thread...-- Dirk Hofman Motorhomes --0
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phil s wrote:Steve, how are you getting on with your fluid2? I missed your question in the previous thread...
Well I just tried the Chris carmichael DVD power intervals, and am in pain now..easily hit my TT heart rate/effort with about 3 ratios to go, so its similar to riding outdoors. I'm completely won over by it I have to be honest. It's not very easy to do hill reps on it, as there isnt enough resistance at 40-50 rpm in the highest ration which is the only drawback. This is the advantage of a magnetic trainer: you can whack up the resistance at low roller speeds so you have to push. But for traininig for TT's its ideal, and a bonus is the flywheel effect and roll down which are much better than anything else I've ridden.0 -
What is the DVD title Steve? From an earlier thread I posted about turbo training I think you replied with some helpful info. I am looking to add interest to TTraining so am interested in the methods others use.0
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am at work at the moment so cant check, but if you look on the woggle site at the fluid2 you'll see the one that's included. Its one of Chris Carmichaels series specifically aimed at TT training.0
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I looked at turbos in the LBS recently. The staff mentioned possible stress risers in the chain and seat stays because the frame is held in place in the turbo. They suggested a turbo that flexes a little would be better for carbon stays. It also happened to be more expensive than the fluid2 that I was initially interested in.
Is there any merit to this or were they trying to get me to buy the more expensive elite crono instead of the fluid2?0