Rear derailleur - adjustment higher gears

Mettan
Mettan Posts: 2,103
edited November 2007 in Road beginners
Just spent some time using the barrel adjuster to enable smoother changes to lower gears - it seems to have worked a bit. One thing I'm not sure of though is what to adjust to enable smooth shifts to higher gears ie from bigger to smaller sprockets?

Thanks

Comments

  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    There is no adjustment for the gears the other way - you are reliant upon the return spring in the gear mechanism to 'pull' the gear back in position. If you've adjusted the barrel adjuster and now find it won't drop back down to the lower gear you may need to slacken the cable tension. Also check the conditions of your cables - a dirty or frayed cable may prevent a clean down shift.
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • Mettan
    Mettan Posts: 2,103
    Thanks Monty - one other thing about the barrel adjuster - it mentions quarter or half turns in a counter-clockwise direction - is that counterclockwise from standing behind the bike looking at the "grip" end of the adjuster? I had the bike upside down, and am not sure from which direction etc.
  • Zendog1
    Zendog1 Posts: 816
    Counterclockwise looking down on the top of the barrel adjusted.

    It easier to just remember "unscrewing" (counterclockwise) the adjuster increases the tension. Screwing it in (clockwise) decreases it.
  • Mettan
    Mettan Posts: 2,103
    Thanks Zendog
  • Gary D
    Gary D Posts: 431
    Mettan,
    I had a similar problem on my Hybrid. As Monty said, check the cables.

    I found the problem was with the 6"-8" loop of outer cable just before the rear mech. Dirt and water had got in and wouldn't allow the cable to move freely through it.

    Took it off, blew some white spirit through the outer to clean it then some WD40 to get rid of any moisture. Then lightly smeared some lithium grease on the inner cable and reassembled. Perfect ever since!! :D:D

    I would also check the cable guides under the bottom bracket as well.

    Hope it helps.
    Gary.
    Oh and I feel like I've been raped by an Orangutan :shock: And I've got legs like Girders :lol:
  • Mettan
    Mettan Posts: 2,103
    Thanks Gary - I'll have a look at the cables tonight.


    Does anyone know whether the jockey wheel is meant to visibly move closer and further away when you adjust the b-screw clockwise and anti-clockwise? - after doing the barrel adjustment I thought I'd have a go at the b-screw - but on turning it both ways the jockey wheel stayed at exactly the same distance away from the cassette as before - are you meant to visibly see a noticable change in distance whilst turning the screw?

    Thanks
  • Zendog1
    Zendog1 Posts: 816
    Yes it should move - not much point if it did'nt.

    Have you got the chain on the largest cog ?
  • John.T
    John.T Posts: 3,698
    It probably will not move as you adjust it but if you give the chain a tug or run through thr gears it will find its new positions. The jockey needs to be as close as possible to the cog but does not catch it in any gear. It is a trial and error adjustment but well worth getting right.
  • Mettan
    Mettan Posts: 2,103
    Thanks Zen & John - yes, the gap isn't changing in any obvious visible sense when I adjust it - the gap between the jockey wheel and largest cog is about 1.5 - 1.7 cm - obviously, the chain's in between, but it does seem a tad far away. I should add though the gears seem to be working ok-ish so no real problem. I'll keep on reading up and slowly get more used to the settings etc.



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