Seatpost & top tube length

Mettan

Is it possible to reverse the clamping mechanism where the seat attaches to the seat post - my top tube's slightly too long on my new Road-bike - I've moved the seat as far forward as possible but it still needs to go another 1.5 inches ideally.

Alternately I could get another seatpost with a clamping mechanism that sits directly above the seatpost, as opposed to an inch behind (which my current one does).

Thanks

Old Tuggo

No problem, I've just done it on my bike. Drop a plumb line from the tip of your saddle and ideally it should come somewhere behind your bottom bracket spindle.

feel

Alternatively would a shorter handlebar stem work? you might find having your seat so far forward affects your weight distribution badly.

Steve928

somewhere behind your bottom bracket spindle

You don't get more precise than that. Top advice Tuggo..

Monty Dog

Try it, but you'll probably find that you cannot adjust the angle of the saddle clamp enough to get the saddle horizontal - as you suggest, there are plenty of inline seat posts available which effectively moves your clamp forward. How long is your current stem? it may be worth trying a shorter stem too - sounds like you bought too-big a bike.

Bronzie

Be warned that sitting too far forward over the bottom bracket can lead to knee problems. On the other hand, changing the stem for a very short one will affect the handling of your bike. Choices, choices..................

Mettan

Thanks for the suggestions guys - yes, the bike is a bit too big - I originally wanted and tried to get a 55 cm bike, but couldn't get it (they only ever had the 50 left) so I ended up with a different bike and I opted for a 57cm one in haste (online order) - the top tube is a bit long, which means my knee is too far back when doing the fore/aft 3 o'clock postion (I went for my first ride today). I've considered the shorter stem, which would solve one elongation nicely, however it still leaves my fore/aft thingy about 1.5" behind were I'd like it to be.

So, I'll carry on with the seatpost ideas first and try and get that sorted as best a possible for now.

Love the bike though

John.T

Correct fore and aft saddle position along with height are the first settings to get right on your bike. The old 'base of knee cap straight above the pedal spindle' with the cranks horizontal is still a good starting point. Get this right then start with stem length.
Most seat pins will not reverse well, if at all, but ones with no layback are available as previously posted.

Mettan

Thanks John - I've spotted a couple of inline seatposts for £10-£20 ish - that should give me another inch push forward - I'll see how that goes first and then decide whether to move from my current 130mm stem to a shorter 100 or 110mm.

Just as another possible option further down the line, does anyone know of any longer rail length saddles ie > 80mm, that are not too expensive? - spotted a FIzik one, but that's too expensive.

Monty Dog

130mm stem is quite long - you should be able to drop to a 11 or 10cm without really noticing much of a change in handling. Planet-X do a cheaper saddle that is similar to an Arione and probalby has long rails too

John.T

A longer top tube does not have much affect on the saddle position. This is mainly governed by the seat tube angle. Having the saddle too far forward will be uncomfortable and could cause injuries. Good for TTs but not for normal riding. Your saying you need to move it forward 1.5" is worrying. Get your saddle in the correct position and then see if a shorter stem will solve the problem. 130mm is rather a long stem. Try not to go shorter than 80mm as it will make the steering a little twitchy.
Unless you have rather extreme proportions or the frame is much too big for you it should be possible to get a good position on the bike.

Mettan

Thanks guys - one other thing. I've noticed that my stem has a slight "angled rise" to it - I'm thinking of flipping it upside down to raise the handlebar height - however, I tried last night by unscrewing the 2 alen bolts on the steerer tube but it wouldn't come off - is there any other bolt etc that you have to undo to actually get the stem off?


Thanks

John.T

You need to remove the steerer cap as well. When you have flipped the stem you will have to adjust the headset bearings.
Go here for how. http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=65#adjust

Mettan

Thanks John - I'll look into that.

Mettan

Just flipped the stem - nice height rise - tightened the 2 allen stem bolts pretty tight - left the vertical stem bolt a bit looser to enable the forks to spin freely - all seems ok - will have a run out with that tommorow

bornagaincycler

I've recently bought a new carbon bike. I was between sizes & opted for the XL with a slightly shorter stem. This has given me a perfect fit. As has been said, I think bringing the seat too far forward is going to place a lot more stress on your knees. I've had serious knee surgery so I look after my knees. Just out of interest it was my knee surgeon who recommended that I take up cycling. His advice was that while pedalling, your knees should never obscure the tip of your foot.