New chain and slipping

rrsodl

Hii all,

today I changed my shimano chain for a sram chain and I went out for a test ride.... I found that the chain was slipping on the 3rd and 4th sprokets.... since I never had a problem with the old chain (which is still in good condition) I thought maybe I left it too long so I removed two links and now I find the chain is slipping in all sprokes so I guess the chain was too short rather than too long :roll:

Anyway, removing the two links was a quite an interesting time.... peopley keep saying that sram power link are so easy to open I spent about 10 minutes trying to open it and in the end I opted for opening another link... when it was time to join the chain I found out that it was quite difficult to do it with the same tool I used to open it.... maybe there is a tool for this task which I didn't know about.... in the end I managed to adapt the chain oppening tool so that I could insert the pin and join the chain together.

Tomorrow I will add three links and see how I get on with that, if I still have a problem I will go back to the old chain while I figure out what the problem is. Before anybody ask the chain is for the correct cassette.

Any thoughts?

Rick

rich g

Hi
Simple you need a new cassette

redvee

When replacing a chain, you need to do the job lot. Chainrings/set, chain and cassette/sprockets all together otherwise you'll get the probs you've been having with slippage.

Diogenes

Assuming it is slipping and not just a cable tension problem then it sounds like you need a new cassette.

Best to change the chain before it wears to the extent that it damages the cassette or chainrings. If you keep the chain in good condition and change it before it wears then the cassette and chainrings will last a good few chains.

Typically I change my chains about every 1500 miles.

D

Smokin Joe

Definately a worn cassette.

One note of caution, if your chain was already the correct length removing two links is asking for an almighty bang and a wrecked rear mech.

Crapaud

Diogenes wrote:

Typically I change my chains about every 1500 miles.

D

I've gotten away with 2 500miles before now. At 3 000 I start to get problems, but if I can put up with them for a while the chain/cassette seem to bed in. Normally, though, I'll just wear them out and and replace the whole sheebang.

Agree with the others: new cassette required!

rrsodl

Thanks for the response.

I think the cassette is ok, I have maintained the chain and cassette regurlarly.

The cassette and chain have only done 1300 miles

The old chain is in good condition, it has not even expanded 1/16" yet - the only reason to chain it was to have to chains and extend the life of the cassette and chains at the same time.

With the old chain I never had a problem.

Any more thoughts out there


Thanks in advance


Rick

PhilofCas

redvee wrote:

When replacing a chain, you need to do the job lot. Chainrings/set, chain and cassette/sprockets all together otherwise you'll get the probs you've been having with slippage.

No, not necessarily, depends on wear. Just recently changed my chain and no problems at all, this may help http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html.

giant_man

I'm about to change my chain and cassette, cos I was always taught that the two should be changed together. I wouldn't risk it personally.

Clever Pun

Crapaud wrote:

Diogenes wrote:

Typically I change my chains about every 1500 miles.

D

I've gotten away with 2 500miles before now. At 3 000 I start to get problems, but if I can put up with them for a while the chain/cassette seem to bed in. Normally, though, I'll just wear them out and and replace the whole sheebang.

Agree with the others: new cassette required!

really??? I'm on 6000 now still on the original chain, it's still absolutely fine

rrsodl

Wel I figured out the problem there was a stif join where I used the old pin. that is why is was slipping in all the gears.

It's nonsense to change everything just because you are changing the chain.... there is plenty of information out there that tells you that you don't have to change the cassete if it still good.... I remember reading somewhere that if the chain is expanded 1/16" or less then the chances are the cassette is still good - if the chain is expanded 1/8" or more then the chances are the cassette is not good and should be replaced together with the chain.

The one thing I learnt in this exercise is that re-using a link pin is not a very good idea, it leaves a stiff join and no matter what you do to it it is never as flexible as the other links.... so use new pins

I wish I tried harder to get the powerlink opened... I never thought opening another link would create problems....stll lots of things to learn but it's all part of the fun really, raiding and mantaining the bike.

Rick

alfablue

giant mancp wrote:

I'm about to change my chain and cassette, cos I was always taught that the two should be changed together. I wouldn't risk it personally.

I believe that if the chain is changed before it is excessivley worn the cassette should last 2 to 3 chain changes, and the chainset longer (inner ring or middle ring may go first depending on usage). I certainly achieve 3+ chains per cassette change, though I am fairly conservative with cleaning and changing the chain.

Crapaud

Clever Pun wrote:

Crapaud wrote:

Diogenes wrote:

Typically I change my chains about every 1500 miles.

D

I've gotten away with 2 500miles before now. At 3 000 I start to get problems, but if I can put up with them for a while the chain/cassette seem to bed in. Normally, though, I'll just wear them out and and replace the whole sheebang.

Agree with the others: new cassette required!

really??? I'm on 6000 now still on the original chain, it's still absolutely fine

The point of this thread is about changing the chain early to get more wear out of the cassette and chain rings. :roll:

No need to be sarky!

richardjallen

RRSODL wrote:

It's nonsense to change everything just because you are changing the chain.... there is plenty of information out there that tells you that you don't have to change the cassete if it still good.... I remember reading somewhere that if the chain is expanded 1/16" or less then the chances are the cassette is still good - if the chain is expanded 1/8" or more then the chances are the cassette is not good and should be replaced together with the chain.

I read this as well and have always stuck with it.

RRSODL wrote:

The one thing I learnt in this exercise is that re-using a link pin is not a very good idea, it leaves a stiff join and no matter what you do to it it is never as flexible as the other links.... so use new pins

Rick

I've had exactly this problem. I could not get the power link open so opened another link with a tool. Careful not to allow the pin to come out of one plate. But when I put the chain back together the link was stiff. I used a pair of round nose pliers to pull the outer plates apart so the link moved freely.

rrsodl

richardjallen wrote:

RRSODL wrote:

It's nonsense to change everything just because you are changing the chain.... there is plenty of information out there that tells you that you don't have to change the cassete if it still good.... I remember reading somewhere that if the chain is expanded 1/16" or less then the chances are the cassette is still good - if the chain is expanded 1/8" or more then the chances are the cassette is not good and should be replaced together with the chain.

I read this as well and have always stuck with it.

RRSODL wrote:

The one thing I learnt in this exercise is that re-using a link pin is not a very good idea, it leaves a stiff join and no matter what you do to it it is never as flexible as the other links.... so use new pins

Rick

I've had exactly this problem. I could not get the power link open so opened another link with a tool. Careful not to allow the pin to come out of one plate. But when I put the chain back together the link was stiff. I used a pair of round nose pliers to pull the outer plates apart so the link moved freely.

richardjallen, that seems like a good idea, I will try that later on - thanks for the tip


Rick

Bronzie

richardjallen wrote:

I used a pair of round nose pliers to pull the outer plates apart so the link moved freely.

Most chain tools come with a notch where you can locate the chain to spread the outer plates when you have a stiff link - no need to faff around with pliers.
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=53

onbike 1939

Rick[/quote]

I've had exactly this problem. I could not get the power link open so opened another link with a tool. Careful not to allow the pin to come out of one plate. But when I put the chain back together the link was stiff. I used a pair of round nose pliers to pull the outer plates apart so the link moved freely.[/quote]


There are usaually two positions on your chain tool and the one nearer the handle is used for to ease the pin into position as the process can cause the plates to bellow outwards.

rrsodl

I've had exactly this problem. I could not get the power link open so opened another link with a tool. Careful not to allow the pin to come out of one plate. But when I put the chain back together the link was stiff. I used a pair of round nose pliers to pull the outer plates apart so the link moved freely.

There are usaually two positions on your chain tool and the one nearer the handle is used for to ease the pin into position as the process can cause the plates to bellow outwards.

Yes, I just read tle link Bronzie posted, thanks for the link Bronzie

You never stop learning, do you?

My little chain tool certainly has the extra teeth that you refer to.

Thanks for the information.

I am one happy customer

Rick