300mm Spokes?

plug1n
plug1n Posts: 204
edited October 2007 in Workshop
I have some wheels I had made in 1980, Fiamme Hard Silver rims on Campag Record SFQR 32 hole hubs in a classic "2 over, 1 under" pattern

I want to rebuild these with clincher rims

When I unlaced the rear wheel, the spokes are too rusted to re-use but I measure them at 300mm (from the flat inside the elbow to end of spoke).

The longest I can quickly find anywhere are 298mm

Can anyone suggest a good place to get 300mm double butted spokes?

Alternatively, any good wheel builder in NW London/West Herts, etc.?

Thanks

Comments

  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Can't find any 300mm spokes but I did find this info.

    Nipples and spokes have enough threads on them that spokes will work fine if they are a little too short. The only real problem with spokes being too short is that a nipple-driver screwdriver would not work to get the spokes started when you started building the wheel. The first spokes that you tightened up would work, but once you were about half way around the wheel, the screwdriver would tighten the spokes to their limit before it reaches it's spin-off point. The other problem with spokes that are a little too short is that the threads might show a little, but if you don't care about this, the wheel will work just fine and be as reliable as if the spokes were longer. Spokes that are a little too short will also allow you to finish the wheel, unlike spokes that are a little too long, so it's better to compensate a little too much than not enough.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    And this, if you can understand it. :lol:

    If your spokes are too short and you will have to get the wheel started using only a nipple wrench, try this. About the easiest way for starting all of the spokes evenly in a case like this is to take an extra unneeded spoke (maybe an old one), cut it so it's about two inches long off the threaded end, and wrap a piece of tape around the spoke about 3mm from the end that's threaded. Make sure to use enough tape that it will stop the spoke from threading into the nipples for the whole build, 5 or 6 layers worth. Thread this spoke into the nipple from the 'inside' until the tape touches the nipple and keeps it from screwing in more. After starting a spoke, tighten the nipple to the point where the wheel's spoke touches the taped spoke, look for the nipple to start backing out as an indicator of the spokes touching. If you do this properly you will have a starting point where all of the spokes are evenly seated in their nipples around the wheel. Finish building the wheel like normal.
  • plug1n
    plug1n Posts: 204
    Thanks

    I like that 2nd post - I don't build enough wheels to justify a nipple driver.

    Last time, I just counted the number turns of the spoke wrench as I laced the wheel to keep things even.

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