old git with old wheels needs advice

TLK

After many years living the in city, I've finally moved to the country - which is nice. But I'm getting loads of punctures with my tubs, so maybe time for an upgrade.

I have an 1992 Brian O'Rouke, wearing GP4 sprint rims & Campag Record hubs, and 6 speed Suntour block. I want to move to clinchers.

I hope to fit a 7 speed block, but am I limited to Campag - could I fit Shimano? Most wheelsets seems to be 8, or 10 speed, which I imagine won't fit. I don't want a full transmission upgrade, just the wheels.

Any advice gratefully received

Thanks

aracer

You can put a Shimano 7-speed cassette on a Shimano 8/9/10-speed rear hub - you just need a little extra spacer. Best yet, the spacing on 7-speed is the same for Campag and Shimano - though if you're upgrading from 6 you presumably don't have indexed Campag anyway?

TLK

Indexing? I dream of indexing....

There's something about reaching down and changing gears which still appeals to me

Thanks for the tip

aracer

Just thought of another issue though - rear spacing. I'm guessing your frame is 126 (or maybe even 120) rear spacing, and modern hubs are 130. Then again it's presumably also steel, so respacing it isn't a problem.

BTW you can get indexed DT levers (though you then start down the road of needing the whole new drivetrain). You can of course also friction shift over 10 speeds if you want, and in that case Shimano or Campag makes no difference, but I'm not sure I'd fancy the experience!

plug1n

1992 bike you must be a young git!

For 7 speed you need 126mm dropouts.

On my 1978 Raleigh 753 (which someone before me seems to have spread to 126mm OLN), I've been using a Shimano 14-28 7 speed freewheel happily for the last few months.

You can pick up the Shimano freewheels really cheaply on Fleabay but they are heavy at ~400gm. I got a 7 speed Taiwanese block that weighs in at ~320gm but haven't put this on anything yet.

I have a pair of unused fiamme/NR wheels that I am thinking of rebuilding with some drc rims from http://withingtoncycles.co.uk/browse.php?node_id=1937. Probably will use the drc classic to reuse the same spokes.

Monty Dog

The spacing on freewheels is the same between brands - there's no such thing as a 'Campag-spaced' freewheel - unlike a modern cassette where they do vary. It depends whether you want to use the existing hubs with new rims, or go to the expense of buying new wheels and transmission - the opions therefore multiply incredibly. The cheapest, minimum change option would be to use your existing hubs and have them rebuilt with modern clincher rims - something like a Mavic Open Pro for about £60/pr plus a further £20 or so for new spokes plus your LBS wheelbuild charge. Buying a new pair of wheels is more problematic as they're all 130mm wide and your frame is 126mm. Alternatively, try someone like Pate Matthews or Paul Hewitt who may have some suitable new-old-stock hubs available, or happy to use your old hubs

stevec205gti

You may find if you do get new wheels you could get the spindle tunred down and fit slightly smaller spaces - it would mean you wouldn't be able to fir the latest 10 speed arrangement, but it doesn't sound like you want to anyway.

As a bit of a side line I'm building up a new bike with the same wheels (it's being made out of bits lying around in the garage) - though the wheels are too narrow to fit snugly between the drops outs and need "winding in" on the quick release before you can fully tighten them up.

I'm also interested to see where other blocks are available from - at the moment the wheels fitted with a 6 speed 12-17 time trial block!!!

aracer

Monty Dog wrote:

Buying a new pair of wheels is more problematic as they're all 130mm wide and your frame is 126mm.

Though as has been discussed on here before (and I've already mentioned), respacing a steel frame - which is presumably what a '92 BOR is - is pretty easy.

stevec205gti

You could even speak to Rourkes and ask if they'd do it for you.

http://www.brianrourke.co.uk/[/url

Anonymous

It's not a problem putting 130mm hubs into a steel 126 OLN spaced frame.
Have done it myself with an 8 speed Campag cassette in a Brian Rourke steel frame of the same vintage.
You are only talking 2mm pull out either side.
The only proviso being that the smallest rear cog is 13T or less as the chain can foul on the seat stay if you go for bigger cog.

So long as you stick with friction levers there is no need to change anything other than the chain in the transmission system You may need to adjust the stop screws on the rear mech but other than that I can't see any further problems arising..

nick hanson

stevec205gti wrote:

.

As a bit of a side line I'm building up a new bike with the same wheels (it's being made out of bits lying around in the garage) - though the wheels are too narrow to fit snugly between the drops outs and need "winding in" on the quick release before you can fully tighten them up.

You could get a new axle,swap the bearings/cones etc over& add a spacer to each side (keeps the wheel central to the brake caliper) so no need to "wind in"

TLK

thanks for all the advice - I'll get myself sorted and let you know

stevec205gti

nick hanson wrote:

stevec205gti wrote:

.

As a bit of a side line I'm building up a new bike with the same wheels (it's being made out of bits lying around in the garage) - though the wheels are too narrow to fit snugly between the drops outs and need "winding in" on the quick release before you can fully tighten them up.

You could get a new axle,swap the bearings/cones etc over& add a spacer to each side (keeps the wheel central to the brake caliper) so no need to "wind in"

I will do in the future - but i'm too broke/lazy to do it at the moment!!!