which are the stronger wheels?
same hubs and spokes, open pro or open sport?
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sloxam wrote:same hubs and spokes, open pro or open sport?
Hi there.
No contest the open pro wins every time - it's welded together rather than pinned, is made from a better quality aluminium and has stronger eyelets.
The open sport is an entry level rim whilst the open pro is the standard that decent handbuilt wheels are judged against.
Cheers, Andy0 -
I'd disagree. Nothing at all wrong with pinning a rim - welding doesn't add to the strength at all since a rim is in compression and the butt joint with pins takes that perfectly well. The quality of the alu has little to do with the strength of a wheel when it's built up, since that doesn't make any difference to the stiffness of the rim, which is the most important quality for wheel strength given that wheels fail when still within the elastic limits of the rim. Meanwhile the Open Sport should be stiffer, being heavier which implies more metal, and also has a triple box construction. Can't see there is any difference in eyelets between the two.
Not saying the Open Pro isn't a good rim - it is indeed very good for its weight. However the extra weight of the Sport does gain you extra stiffness, and hence wheel strength.0 -
build quality and spoke choice/count are the key factors IMO
Having said that, if you want tougher then try a burlier rim such as a touring rim. I run A319s on my winter wheels. They'll take pretty much anything I can throw at them.Facts are meaningless, you can use facts to prove anything that's remotely true! - Homer0 -
and Open Sport is made from cardboard.
And then there's that wear indicator/ditch around rim. MA3 was better IMO.I'm only concerned with looking concerned0 -
Lol great thread!
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How about some nice Mavic Ksyrium ES's??
(There - that's how it feels when you handbuilt brigade come and spoil any 'factory' wheel threads)0 -
gkerr4 wrote:How about some nice Mavic Ksyrium ES's??
(There - that's how it feels when you handbuilt brigade come and spoil any 'factory' wheel threads)
Grow up!! Answer the OP with a helpful reply or simply refrain altogether from writing a load of b0llox.0 -
Which is a function of the need, given that Mavic know what they're doing. In a lighter single box you need double eyelets to spread the load, in a triple box you don't as you've already got extra bits of metal doing that. No strength difference between the eyelets as was originally suggested.SteveNcp wrote:aracer wrote:Can't see there is any difference in eyelets between the two
Open Pro has double eyelets
Open Sport has single eyelets0 -
Not exactly - we're feeling "how strange to suggest something functinoally worse" where the factory wheel folks are feeling "how strange to suggest something which doesn't look so nice".gkerr4 wrote:(There - that's how it feels when you handbuilt brigade come and spoil any 'factory' wheel threads)0 -
given that Mavic know what they're doing.
Yeah, right :-)
So how do the extra bits of metal in the triple box spread the load around the spoke hole then? Just asking - I can't see how that works.
As an illustration of single v. double eyelets, take for example the 517 and 618 MTB rims: same rim but the 618 had double eyelets (and a thicker braking surface)
The 517s last about 6 months before cracking around the spoke holes.
The 618s are indestructable - I have a set that are 8 years old..
And in the road sector, DT produce their road rim with a choice of either double or single eyelets. If you want the strength of double eyelets then you take the 50g weight penalty, but get a stronger rim.0 -
The difference is that 517, 618 and DT RR rims are all single box section, so will benefit from double eyelets. If you look at http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=17148 you'll see that the Open Sport has a triple box as I mentioned before, with extra flanges between the upper and lower walls. These provide support for the part of the rim a single eyelet attaches to by transferring some of the stress to the upper wall in exactly the same way a double eyelet does. Whilst arguably a double eyelet will spread the stress in the same was as in a sinjgle box rim, it's not needed in the same way, since a single eyelet has just as good support in a triple box rim as a double eyelet does in a single box.0
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there's only one way to sort this out
bring out the jump bike and the big fella.............Facts are meaningless, you can use facts to prove anything that's remotely true! - Homer0 -
Top_Bhoy wrote:gkerr4 wrote:How about some nice Mavic Ksyrium ES's??
(There - that's how it feels when you handbuilt brigade come and spoil any 'factory' wheel threads)
Grow up!! Answer the OP with a helpful reply or simply refrain altogether from writing a load of b0llox.
I hope that was said tongue in cheek as my original post was...
how many times have we had a good wheel thread ruined by some handbuilt brigade talking about some over-spoked pile of crap - and look what happens when I chip in to a handbuilt thread - look at the abuse!
talk about taking your ball home - course it won't be a rugby ball for you will it aussie boy as the ball was taken well from your hands a while back.....0 -
ok - perhaps a bit harsh - but still my original post was mean in jest...0
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Is that a typo or a Freudian slip?0
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I like my Mavic rims. But I like my Rigida Chrinas more. It is a bit burlier than the Open Pro, generally sold with double eyelets in the UK. It's a great rim, and less than 20 pounds. It also has a very good wear indicator that is not one of those annoying cuts in the rim.
You might also conisder the DRC ST20 for a strong rim. If you want super strong, stiff and all around hard core, Deep V's are for you...0 -
gkerr4 wrote:
I hope that was said tongue in cheek as my original post was...
how many times have we had a good wheel thread ruined by some handbuilt brigade talking about some over-spoked pile of crap - and look what happens when I chip in to a handbuilt thread - look at the abuse!
talk about taking your ball home - course it won't be a rugby ball for you will it aussie boy as the ball was taken well from your hands a while back.....
I have no great preference for handbuilts or Factory - people should buy the wheel according to their type of cycling, their servicing capabilities and at the price which they can afford - as long as it goes round in a smooth manner, should it matter?
To be fair, most types of wheel selection questions are fairly open ended and a different suggestion is often welcome . This question wasn't, it was very specific. If your comments were tongue in cheek I apologise - they certainly didn't come across that way on the small screen - put it down to heatstroke on my part!!
As for Aussie boy, its Glasgow Celtic for me. Rugby is no more than a game made up by an ignorant, posh english schoolboy who couldn't play football and had to cheat. :P I guess I'll need to go out at 8pm tonight to watch Celtic on TV in 25+ deg C heat - its difficult but I wouldn't want to miss out 0
