Can't get my bloody tire off!

Richie1964
Richie1964 Posts: 2,601
edited October 2007 in Workshop
Hello all



I have had my first puncture of the season! I am on Continental Untra Sport tyres riding on Ritchey OCR Comp wheels. I have never encountered such a tight fit before! Anyone got any tips?



Thanks in advance!





Rich
www.rideletour.com

Comments

  • campagsarge
    campagsarge Posts: 434
    Rich, its not going to be pretty believe me.

    I have Conti Gatorskin's (wired) on Campag Vento's and they are evil to get on and off.

    The last attempt ended in a bit of a bloodbath. I used a Crank Brothers device which kind of worked but the plastic of the hook is now a mangled mess.

    http://www.crankbrothers.com/speedlever.php

    I hear talcum powder is quite good and you could maybe purchase some tyre levers that have a plastic form but an aluminium centre.

    Looking at other posts, I know that Campag rims can be quite tricky to get tyres on and off however, on another set of wheels I have Michelen Pro Race 2 and they are fine.

    IMO Conti tyres are ugly to get on and off your rims. I for one wont be purchasing Conti's again for this reason alone.

    Good luck!
  • Richie1964
    Richie1964 Posts: 2,601
    Thanks for the reply.
    www.rideletour.com
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Work your way round the wheel pushing both sides of the tyre into the centre of the rim.
    Get a lever under the bead/edge opposite the valve and hook it onto the nearest spoke..Put two other levers either side and as close to that lever as possible then press down on the unhooked levers as hard as can with one hand whilst simultaneously grasping and pulling the opposte side of the tyre towards you and over the wheel rim.
  • LangerDan
    LangerDan Posts: 6,132
    I think manufacturing tolerances have a lot to do with it. I have Contis on a couple of different rim types and have no issues. Similarly, Vredesteins on Campag wheels aren't an issue. Vittoria Open Corsa on Open 4s - no problem but Vittoria Open Paves on the same rims are a nightmare.

    However, if you do want to risk giving yourself a mild coronary, try fitting UST tubeless mountain bike tyres.

    As well have talcum powder, I've also heard that washing-up liquid can be used but the former is probably easier to clean off afterwards.
    'This week I 'ave been mostly been climbing like Basso - Shirley Basso.'
  • Richie1964
    Richie1964 Posts: 2,601
    Thanks for all the suggestions. Have got it done. I only had plastic tyre leavers, and now I| need new ones. Am going to invest in some different tyres - I can't be doing with this hassle if I have a puncture whilst miles from home!
    www.rideletour.com
  • Richie1964
    Richie1964 Posts: 2,601
    God now I can't get the bastard on!! What's the point of making tyres that are so hard to work with??!!
    www.rideletour.com
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Richie1964 wrote:
    God now I can't get the bastard on!! What's the point of making tyres that are so hard to work with??!!

    Get yourself some Continental High Performance rim tape if you already have'nt .It's very thin yet very strong and makes the job soooo much easier .Honest. :lol:


    In the meanwhile ,put the wheel in the coldest place you can find,garage, outside ,whatever, and the tyre in warmest place in the house.Then have some Scotch broth with dumplings and have another go. :wink:
  • aracer
    aracer Posts: 1,649
    whitley wrote:
    Work your way round the wheel pushing both sides of the tyre into the centre of the rim.
    Get a lever under the bead/edge opposite the valve and hook it onto the nearest spoke..Put two other levers either side and as close to that lever as possible then press down on the unhooked levers as hard as can with one hand whilst simultaneously grasping and pulling the opposte side of the tyre towards you and over the wheel rim.
    With that method, it's no wonder you have problems. You want to lift the tyre right next to the valve, since that's the bit of the tyre you can't get to sit in the rim well anyway. Gives you that little bit of extra slack compared to taking the tyre off anywhere else.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    I don't have problems thankyou.
    Ever tried patching a nipped tube next to the valve?
  • aracer
    aracer Posts: 1,649
    No, never nipped a tube next to the valve (or indeed anywhere).

    I'm not convinced with your need to not only use 3 tyre levers but also pull on the tyre it looks like you don't have problems. It may be the tyres and rims I use, but by lifting next to the valve I don't need any tyre levers (and certainly would if I lifted it opposite the valve). Given the OP is struggling, lifting the tyre next to the valve (which is non-intuitive) definitely helps.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    aracer wrote:
    No, never nipped a tube next to the valve (or indeed anywhere).

    I'm not convinced with your need to not only use 3 tyre levers but also pull on the tyre it looks like you don't have problems. It may be the tyres and rims I use, but by lifting next to the valve I don't need any tyre levers (and certainly would if I lifted it opposite the valve). Given the OP is struggling, lifting the tyre next to the valve (which is non-intuitive) definitely helps.

    I don't have any problems with tyres,I was trying to help the OP.
    Try helping the OP next time instead of criticising those that do.
  • pb21
    pb21 Posts: 2,171
    If your wheels take rim tape get some thin stuff.

    I have campag wheels that came with the standared 'thick' plastic rim tape. They were, as is the case with all campag wheels, very very hard to get tyres on and off, needing multiple levers and a large dose of luck to get a tyre on, without a damaging the inner tube or causing minor injuries to my knuckles.

    I then put some specialized red rim tape on. I can now just about get the tyre on without the need for levers, although strong thumbs is reccomended!
    Mañana
  • peanut
    peanut Posts: 1,373
    not exactly professional but I used to take me shoes off and put both feet through the spokes and stand on the rim then pull the tyre both sides of the wheel to stretch it a bit. Works a treat.oh and using the thinest metal levers I can find
  • aracer
    aracer Posts: 1,649
    whitley wrote:
    Try helping the OP next time instead of criticising those that do.
    Um, that's exactly what I did, by suggesting there were ways to improve your technique!

    Still not really convinced by the sounds of your contortions with two tyre levers in one hand that you couldn't also make life easier for yourself.

    Agree with the comments about tape - I use Conti Supersonic adhesive tape - like the ubiquitous Velox, but thinner. Not a big fan of Velox as it's rather thick.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    edited October 2007
    aracer wrote:
    whitley wrote:
    Try helping the OP next time instead of criticising those that do.
    Um, that's exactly what I did, by suggesting there were ways to improve your technique!
    Still not really convinced by the sounds of your contortions with two tyre levers in one hand that you couldn't also make life easier for yourself.

    Agree with the comments about tape - I use Conti Supersonic adhesive tape - like the ubiquitous Velox, but thinner. Not a big fan of Velox as it's rather thick.

    I was talking about the OP's situation.
    Levering a tyre next to the valve is not a good idea.
    It was pretty obvious that the OP was struggling ,I suggested ONE way that may help whereas you come along and talk about lifting the tyre when it was glaringly apparent that in his case it was impossible.
  • JWSurrey
    JWSurrey Posts: 1,173
    An alternative to the suggested Crank Brothers speed lever, is the VAR tool, available from BikePlus and SJS Cycles.
    I managed to reduce 7 days of struggling with my Conti Ultrasports, to about 5 minutes!
  • aracer
    aracer Posts: 1,649
    whitley wrote:
    Levering a tyre next to the valve is not a good idea.
    Go on then, why not?
  • jpembroke
    jpembroke Posts: 2,569
    I had to repair a puncture on the Dragon Ride this year: Vredestein Fortezza on Campag Proton - possibly the worst combination. It got very bloody and very painful when my hand slipped and a nuckle crashed in to a spoke nipple. I still have the scar. Man, I hate changing tyres on my road bike.
    I'm only concerned with looking concerned
  • graeme_s-2
    graeme_s-2 Posts: 3,382
    I used my Crank Brothers Speed Lever for the first time on Monday, and would highly recommend it. If you've got a problem tyre/rim combination then that (or a VAR tool by the sounds of it) have got to be worth a try.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    aracer wrote:
    whitley wrote:
    Levering a tyre next to the valve is not a good idea.
    Go on then, why not?

    Whatever I say you will dispute, judging by your other contibutions to this forum.
    Enjoy your walks. :lol:
  • aracer
    aracer Posts: 1,649
    Which presumably means you can't come up with a good reason I can't dispute? I always remove the bit of bead next to the valve first with or without tyre levers (some combos of tyres / rims do still need levers) and never had a problem, so not sure why it should be - no particular reason I can see why you should be more at risk of trapping the tube there than anywhere else if you take care. I can only assume from your vehement defence of your position that you've never actually tried my suggestion.

    For the record I've got nothing against you personally, but I do know how to make getting a tyre off as easy as possible, and it's not exactly the way you do it.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Go back to position one.i.e. the O.P. and read all of the thread.
  • aracer
    aracer Posts: 1,649
    OK - did that (again). The OP has trouble getting his tyres off. You recommend a procedure which is largely correct (getting the beads into the well of the rim), but making the mistake of suggesting lifting the bead opposite the valve. I correct you by pointing out that it gives you more slack if you lift the bead next to the valve (since the bead next to the valve can't get into the well of the rim anyway). What exactly is wrong with that?
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    You were wrong to assume that this is my normal procedure.It was advice based on the information presented.
    Should all not go to plan using your method ,which I admit to using on a not overtight rim combination the risk of piercing the tube in the valve area is generally avoided as punctures in this area are virtually impossible to repair.
    I always carry two spare inners but not everyone does.
  • aracer
    aracer Posts: 1,649
    OK, so our disagreement is simply on whether there is a risk of puncturing the tube when taking the tyre off near the valve - I'd argue that there isn't if you're careful, and that it does make getting the tyre off a lot easier in all cases - particularly recommended for tight tyres (you might be able to dispense with one of the tyre levers).
  • emaichael
    emaichael Posts: 109
    Richie1964 wrote:
    Thanks for all the suggestions. Have got it done. I only had plastic tyre leavers, and now I| need new ones. Am going to invest in some different tyres - I can't be doing with this hassle if I have a puncture whilst miles from home!

    hehe, imagine being on a club ride and getting a puncture in the middle of knowhere, and everyone clears off to the cafe thinking you won't be very long. (you spend a whole hour trying to get your tire off... your hands red raw, swearing under your breath, tips of your fingers ready to explode from pain.... is it worth it?

    just get dif wheels etc.... then you won't need to worry will you?

    PS: did i mention it's raining, windy, cold, and you forgot to pick up your cycling jacket, and your shoes aren't water proof, so your feet are freezing, and you were in such a rush so you didn't have time for breakfast, (3hours have passed of constant cycling) then u get a puncture, lol.
  • Cajun
    Cajun Posts: 1,048
    Park: http://www.parktool.com/products/detail ... tem=TL%2D5
    (these are probably more readily available)

    Eldi also makes some super, heavy duty levers....you can change a motorcycle tire with them....I bought this set after breaking 2 pairs of plastic levers; took the wheel to the LBS and they broke 2 sets too....I now avoid wired tires :evil: :twisted:
    http://www.bikeparts.com/search_results ... acturer=57
    Cajun
  • clanton
    clanton Posts: 1,289
    aracer wrote:
    it gives you more slack if you lift the bead next to the valve (since the bead next to the valve can't get into the well of the rim anyway).

    Um surely if you seat the valve properly the tyre will sit properly even next to the valve? This is certainly the case on my mtb tyres. Can't speak for road tyres cause I have never had a puncture on them! Touch wood!
  • chrisw12
    chrisw12 Posts: 1,246
    What a cuffufle, just go out and buy some tubs, much much easier than all the stuff that you lot are suggesting. Special tools, lift off at the valve, away from the valve... :roll:


    But if your going to go with clinchers :twisted: ...

    A couple of points/questions from others posts

    1) Surely if you can get the tyre off without a lever then you are in a very danagerous situation, i.e. that tyre could roll off when you are ridding. :twisted:

    2) To the original poster, as has been said here numerous times, some tyres wheels work together, some do not. Stay away from those that do not and spend some money if need be. There should imo be a sticky on this topic. Some of the solutions are great but you don't want to be messing out on the road, in the rain, in the dark.

    3) A tight tyre may not be a bad thing, surely less rolling resistance from the tyre moving on the rim. :wink:
  • aracer
    aracer Posts: 1,649
    clanton wrote:
    aracer wrote:
    it gives you more slack if you lift the bead next to the valve (since the bead next to the valve can't get into the well of the rim anyway).

    Um surely if you seat the valve properly the tyre will sit properly even next to the valve? This is certainly the case on my mtb tyres. Can't speak for road tyres cause I have never had a puncture on them! Touch wood!
    You're completely misunderstanding the issue. It's not an issue with seating the tyre, which isn't a problem next to the valve, but with getting the tyre bead down into the well of the rim in order to give yourself enough slack to lift it off. This is an issue next to the valve as the valve gets in the way of the tyre sitting down in the well. This means that if you try to take the tyre off the rim anywhere but next to the valve you will have less slack, since at that point the tyre can't sit down in the well anyway.
    chrisw12 wrote:
    1) Surely if you can get the tyre off without a lever then you are in a very danagerous situation, i.e. that tyre could roll off when you are ridding. :twisted:
    Not sure if you're being serious given that smiley, but just in case you are, then ease of tyre removal has nothing to do with the tyre coming off when inflated. WHen inflated it sits up on the shoulder of the rim, and there is nowhere near enough slack for it to come off (that and the bead hook also holds it on). When removing the tyre you drop it into the well to give you slack. Just to give two examples: given a very loose tyre which is likely to pop off on its own, but a rim with no well at all, that tyre will be a real pain to get off. On the other hand a tyre which is really tight when mounted with a bead with double the usual number of steel strands so it doesn't stretch at all will be dead easy to get off a rim which has a very deep central well.

    I presume your quip about rolling resistance was a quip?

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