Chain Replacement - When?

OnTow
OnTow Posts: 130
edited October 2007 in Workshop
Just curious -
Do you replace your chain when it's technically worn-out i.e. > 0.75% stretched
or
Do you replace it when it's gritty and horrid?

Also, has anyone tried any of the KMC chains on a Campag. 10 speed setup?

Comments

  • Hotblack Desiato
    Hotblack Desiato Posts: 136
    It should never be gritty and horrid sign-smiley-452.gif

    Shame on you if it is.

    .
    My Bikes:

    Road
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  • maddog 2
    maddog 2 Posts: 8,114
    yep, I use a chain checker.

    I tend to transfer my road chains onto my mtb when they're a bit stretched. The mtb gets a much harder life, and I don't mind being harder on the kit.
    Facts are meaningless, you can use facts to prove anything that's remotely true! - Homer
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    edited October 2007
    Put the chain on big chainring and any rear cog.
    Hold chain at quarter past three O'clock between thumb and forefinger.If you can lift it off the teeth of the chainring more than 7.5 mm it's goosed.
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    I use a chain checker - and usually replace chains every year, or when they get to 1% - whatever is quicker. I'm currently using a KMC x10 SL chain on my best bike - runs very smooth and seems to be pretty corrosion resistant too.
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • craigenty
    craigenty Posts: 960
    Dura Ace 10 speed chains 17 quid so twice a year for me.

    Craig
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  • Cajun
    Cajun Posts: 1,048
    A stretched chain will wear out the cogs' teeth.... wait too long and you'll be buying a chain and a cog set....
    Cajun
  • aracer
    aracer Posts: 1,649
    I replace mine at 0.5%. That way you don't wear out the cogs too. False economy to wait anyway, as by 0.5% the hardened coating has gone, and they wear quickly after that.

    Oh, and I measure using a ruler rather than a chain checker.

    (note to self - must remember to measure my chains).
  • John C.
    John C. Posts: 2,113
    As soon as the checker says change, I change. Use chains as disposable items. Chains can be bought for 10-15 pounds, how much is your cassette worth ?
    http://www.ripon-loiterers.org.uk/

    Fail to prepare, prepare to fail
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  • walsall_scott
    walsall_scott Posts: 8
    Buy two chains and keep swapping them every three rides or so..... that way you only have to replace the casette every two chains rather than at the same time as a one:one scenario...... more cost effective.
  • campagsarge
    campagsarge Posts: 434
    I run KMC x10 SL chains on my both my Campag equipped 10 speed bikes. Smooth changing and so far no problems.
  • Kléber
    Kléber Posts: 6,842
    campagsarge wrote:
    I run KMC x10 SL chains on my both my Campag equipped 10 speed bikes. Smooth changing and so far no problems.
    Likewise. A tiny bit noiser but the connecting link is better and it's lighter too.
  • the ferry
    the ferry Posts: 258
    ...............yeah but no but....will a dura ace chain be ok on ultegra cogs?
  • Gussio
    Gussio Posts: 2,452
    aracer wrote:
    I replace mine at 0.5%. That way you don't wear out the cogs too. False economy to wait anyway, as by 0.5% the hardened coating has gone, and they wear quickly after that.

    Oh, and I measure using a ruler rather than a chain checker.

    (note to self - must remember to measure my chains).

    Putting your finger in the air, what does that equate to in mileage terms?
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    the ferry wrote:
    ...............yeah but no but....will a dura ace chain be ok on ultegra cogs?

    Yes but SRAM are much better.



    Runs for cover.
  • aracer
    aracer Posts: 1,649
    Gussio wrote:
    aracer wrote:
    I replace mine at 0.5%. That way you don't wear out the cogs too. False economy to wait anyway, as by 0.5% the hardened coating has gone, and they wear quickly after that.

    Oh, and I measure using a ruler rather than a chain checker.

    (note to self - must remember to measure my chains).

    Putting your finger in the air, what does that equate to in mileage terms?

    I have absolutely no idea - 500 miles, 10,000 miles; either is just as likely to be more accurate. Given multiple bikes and varying wear rates between best road, winter road and mountain bikes (fixer, crosser, tandem, TT bike etc.), I doubt the answer would be useful anyway. If you're changing chains based on mileage you're misunderstanding the issue.
  • Gussio
    Gussio Posts: 2,452
    aracer wrote:
    Gussio wrote:
    aracer wrote:
    I replace mine at 0.5%. That way you don't wear out the cogs too. False economy to wait anyway, as by 0.5% the hardened coating has gone, and they wear quickly after that.

    Oh, and I measure using a ruler rather than a chain checker.

    (note to self - must remember to measure my chains).

    Putting your finger in the air, what does that equate to in mileage terms?

    I have absolutely no idea - 500 miles, 10,000 miles; either is just as likely to be more accurate. Given multiple bikes and varying wear rates between best road, winter road and mountain bikes (fixer, crosser, tandem, TT bike etc.), I doubt the answer would be useful anyway. If you're changing chains based on mileage you're misunderstanding the issue.

    Understood. I measure the chain on both my bikes (one road bike one commuter) to determine wear. Chain replacement frequency seems to stay constant in mileage terms and corresponds to roughly 2,000 miles for both bikes. Was wondering if others experienced a similar pattern.

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